mrramsey's 72gal Bowfront with Sump Project

[mrramsey]

Well folks here we are.... A new journal for a new project! I had been looking for the past few months for a second tank. I wanted to do a drilled tank with a sump not for any practical reason other than the experience of doing it. Yes, I like to try new things. I finally came across a good deal on a used 72g bowfront that someone started but did not finish. This tank was drilled based on the Bean Animal coast to coast overflow. The Tank came with a stand, 20g long for the sump, light and most of the plumbing pieces. Here is what it looked like when I picked it up.

The stand is home made and I will be building a new one that will put this one to shame lol.

I have the sump laid out and the glass and acrylic pieces ordered from a local glass shop.

1. Inlet - All three drains will enter here.
2. Fine Filtration and Drip Plate
3. 3 gallons of Bio Balls
4. Secondary filtration sponge / additive compartment
5. Equipment Chamber
6. Bubble Trap
7. Pump Chamber

The plumbing parts

1. Black Spraypaint for Plastic - This is for the return spray bar.
2. 3/4" Ball Valves - Control the flow of the drains
3. 1/2" Ball valve for Bypass Line
4. Emergency Drain
5. Main Drain
6. Secondary Drain
7. 3/4" x1/2" x 3/4" Tee for Bypass
8. Unions - for easy disassembly when needed
9. 3/4" slip to 3/4" MIP
10. 3/4" Street 90 Elbows
11. 3/4" 45's as needed for alignment
12. 3/4" 90 Elbows
13. 1/2" 90 elbow for bypass
14. Aquarium safe silicone
15. 1/4" vinyl Vent tube for secondary line
16. Cenent and Primer
17. Eggcrate for bio chamber
    

The back of the tank.

1. Return to tank
2. Overflow drains
3. Line represents the bottom of the coast to coast overflow box

TODO:

• Order Pump
• Order Light
• Order Bio Media
• Order Misc Filtration
• Design Aquascape
• Decide on inhabitants
• Pick up lumber for stand

[Cliff]

Looks like this will be a great set-up

I'm looking forward to reading about your progress

I would suggest making the last compartment a little bigger tho. The reason being is that as you get evaportation from your set-up, it will lower the water level in the last compartment of the sump. Having a little extra water in that compartment to begin with will help you stay on top of the evaportaion a little better.

[mrramsey]

I have a couple ideas for the stand - One with an enclosed canopy and one without. Either way the plumbing is 100% concealed.

1. This has an enclosed removable canopy and access panels on both sides
2. This has an open top with access panels on both ends

Two doors on the front offer complete access to the sump and electrical components.

[mrramsey]

Need recommendations on glass thicknesses for the sump. I took drawings to my local glass guy and he came back with a price of $250!.... I am thinking something is amiss here.

[Cliff]

$250 for a complete sump, or just the 6 pains of glass to be used in the sump?

[mrramsey]

Just the 6 panes plus the overflow

[Cliff]

Sounds a little too expensive to me.

I would shop around a little

[mrramsey]

Sounds a little too expensive to me.

I would shop around a little

Ok glass ordered... $70 - thats more like it.

[ijankrom]

Yeah that seems expensive just for glass, they charging you for the cuts too and additional fees? I would think you would not need to go any thicker than the glass the 20g already has. Each compartment will likely hold less than 10 gallons. I may be wrong but I think the importance of the glass thickness is the amount of water it will need to support. I also don't think it matters much on the GPH you're running through it. My experience has been on smaller projects, so I could be completely wrong. Please anyone correct me if I'm wrong.

Opps, did not realize the additional posts before mine. Just ignore mine.

[mrramsey]

Lol it happens. 1/4" seem to be what most guys stock. 3/16" would actually have cost more. I just need to run to Home Depot for a piece of plexiglas I am making the drip plate and cover for the sump from.