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Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. Default Ich Finally Over??? Now What?


    0 Not allowed!
    I have had a terrible battle with ich---3 clown loaches--the only fish that visibly had it. I treated the tank with that Quick Cure from Walmart and the next day my dojo was lying on his back. I quickly moved him to a one gallon and tried several treatments when you all finally told me to STOP! just give him clean fresh water with partial changes. In the end he somewhat recovered and he is now my little Neurally Challenged sweetheart. I moved him to another tank with a companion dojo----also all the fish from the ich tank were moved except the clown and the guppies--moved the snails too. So, the dojo flips on his back on occasion and looks positively gone--but flits around every so often and scavenges. Back to the clowns. I was thinking the ich was over when back it came in full force. So I tried the Maricide that supposedly works ON the fish for treatments just day 1, 3, 5. It appeared to work but what to my surprise???? A few days later it was worse than ever. Tried Ick Guard half strength--did nothing---tried combining it with salt and heat---wrong move---oxygen level got too low. Finally, I put my carbon back in and started removing the stuff (also I had done several partial water changes) and tried to just use the salt and heat combo. The little tiny loach didn't make it. A day or two later the midsize one died also. But finally I think the largest one is getting there. I am still using small amounts of salt in the partial water changes that I do every morning and have also done at night if there was any distress. When the guppies start hanging at the top I know there is an oxygen problem. I have three airstones in there plus I am running the aquaclear with a carbon/ammochip bag instead of plain carbon. I find that the high end of 82 is as warm as I can get it before I feel like the clown starts stressing. His spots appear to be gone. The water is always cloudy, no matter what. Has been from the first. I vacuum before I do the partial changes. All the readings are fine--no nitrites, low nitrates, no ammonia, semi-high ph (which is indicative of my water here). My question is how do I tell when to stop all this and then what do I do??? There are, of course the guppies in there that have weathered the complete storm. I already changed the filter sponge but nothing else (it was blue green from the Ick Guard I tried to get out of the tank. So I can clean my filter box out (which I do a fair amount anyway, always rinsing the contents, though in a bowl of tank water). Do I need to throw this new sponge away? how about the biomax media bag and the charcoal/ ammo chip bag? Will the whole tank just have to be recycled and what do I do with my clown and when can I tell if he's okay???? I don't want to stress him out all over again with a new tank setup???? Thanks for any help! Shirley

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Typically the only way to make sure ich is gone is to continue your treatment 5 - 7 days AFTER you see the last spot on the last fish. That's because the ich parasite's life cycle can extend beyond any physical siting.
    As difficult as it is to put the stress of either heat or salt or meds on the fish, you have to continue the treatment for that extended period to make certain it's all died off.
    I wouldn't toss any media. ich needs a fish host to survive so it shouldn't live in your filter or media.
    Just continue whatever method you've chosen and stay that course.
    However, since you have salt sensitive fish, my choice would be to increase the heat to 86 and do daily water changes to get rid of the salt. Once you see the last spot, then leave the heat at 86 for a minimum of 5 more days (in your case since this has been so stubborn, I might increase that to 7 days) then gradually reduce the heat over a 2 day period while doing several water changes in a row and vacuuming thoroughly each time. (note: according to the clown loach profile I just read they should easily tolerate the higher temp).

    Someone else may have a better idea but I've successfully treated ich with heat alone using this same method.

    As to the cloudiness - most likely a bacterial bloom. You may have had some beneficial bacteria die off due to some of the medications and all the tinkering with the water. Just keep monitoring your perimeters to make certain you don't have an ammonia or nitrite spike and do w/c change accordingly if you do. the cloudiness should dissipate within a week or maybe even 3 weeks.
    Good luck.
    Last edited by fishmommie; 02-17-2013 at 02:36 PM.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  3. #3

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Not exactly what you ask for, but one thing that is extremely important in this hobby is patience and persistence. Nothing positive in this hobby comes fast. If you treat with something, stick to the full treatment course instead of skipping around if the treatment does not show results within the first day. Don't teat with multiple treatments at a time. If possible, give fish time to recover between treatments. Stress can do in fish just like a disease. Don't randomly add salt to the water, as high concentrations kill. Make sure you calculate exactly how much salt your tank needs. Don't clean your filter more than twice a month or you will lose a lot of bacteria. If your water parameters are good, that is what is important. Don't try five things in quick succession of each other. Change the water every couple of days, let things stabilize, your fish recover from stress and from there you can figure out about the cloudy water. Like fishmommie said some things just get better with time and nothing else. If your fish show no spots for one or two weeks in water of that temperature, you are most likely free of ich.
    Last edited by madagascariensis; 02-17-2013 at 02:38 PM.

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    OMG, that is one of the biggest paragraphs I have seen in a while. Using properly formated paragraphs will make your post a lot easier to read and your questions a lot esier to understand. You might be able to get more advice that way as well.

    First off, do not change any of your filter media. You don't want to loose your cycle and put your fish under more stress and toxins after going through a already stressfull treatment

    Test your water parameters daily and change about 50% (or more) if any ammonia or nitrites are found. I would also suggest at least a larger (50% or more) weekly water change as well

    I likely missed a few things as your post was very hard to read and follow
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

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