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Results 11 to 20 of 35
  1. #11


    0 Not allowed!
    Sure, with the right conditions you can grow out your Anemones. Many aquarists have had saltwater tanks in a variety of sizes, with a variety of anemone/fish species. Your tank would be perfectly suitable.

    I'm hoping someone, like our buddy Cliff chimes in. He'd be my go-to for saltwater tanks. =]

    I only know about as much as I've read, so I think you're about to get into questions that exceed my ability to answer. lol I've yet to venture forth into marine/reef tanks.
    Adventures in Aquaria - The KevinVA Story

    When in doubt, ask yourself... W.W.L.S (What would Lee Say)?

    Have a fish problem? Fill out and post this completed questionnaire in the General Aquarium Forum, when you start a new thread.

  2. #12


    0 Not allowed!
    There are a lot of suggestions that I can make, but first I would like to ask just a few questions:

    -What are your water parameters? And by that I am asking for the following exact measurements: Salinity, alkalinity, calcium, and nitrate. Your remaining fish are more tolerant to water conditions as compared to the ones you lost. Based on your first post, I am thinking something is off in your water. Maybe you could ask the guy for this info when he is there on Monday.
    -When you added the fish to your tank, how did you acclimate them to the tank ?
    -What type of normal maintenance does this guy preform ? How often and how big of water changes will he complete ?
    -How much rock it that in your tank and how much water flow do you have with that one powerhead ?
    -Are you using any other equipment on this tank, like a skimmer or a filter ?
    -What do you enjoy more, the fish or the ell? In a tank that size with a moray ell, you can't have both the ell and smaller fish. It is highly likely that won't end well for those fish
    -If you enjoy the fish more, are you looking for a more aggressive stocking, or more peaceful ? Right now you have both. With time, that will cause more problems down the road. You will start to see the behaviors of the damsel change over time once it claims a territory as his.
    -Are you open to making changes to your rocks in your tank? changing layout and maybe adding some
    -What do you have for lighting on this tank. Anemones that clown fish will host in have very very specific lighting requirements. Not to mention, most anemone will outgrow your tank

    Sorry for all the questions, but I want to make sure that I can give you the best possible options.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL=""]

  3. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Hi Cliff,

    Thankyou for chiming in. I would like to say I know all the answers to your questions, but I think part of the problem is I've relied too heavily on the fish man (who is good and reputable but doesn't live with the tank) to take care of the tank - so don't know as much as I should. I just went and spoke with him, so that my husband and I can be more involved.

    - the water parimeters (we're the thing that intimidated me most - he takes care of that - so I don't know all of them)

    Here is what I do know: (this is before changing water because 32 days will be next monday)

    ph - 8.2

    kh -8/ 10 d

    ca - 400/ 500

    no2 -0/ 0.5

    no3- 40

    - To acclimate the fish, first we cycled the take for 5 weeks. Then we added the fish 1 at a time 2 - 4 weeks apart in this order

    1) fox face rabbit
    2) snowflake eel
    3) trigger
    4) clown
    5) 2 damsels together

    When we put them in the tank, they had been socialized at the store for at least 6 weeks minimum. We got them in a plastic bag with water. Put the bag, unopened in our tank for 30 minutes. Then added a little bit of water from our tank to the bag every 5 minutes for another 1/2 hour. Then opened the bag and let the fish into the tank.

    - When the fish guy comes, once a month, he tests the water with a one go test, then changes 40 liters of water, cleans everything in the tank, and changes the filters - polypad and carbon sponge. We have ph/kh plus so I guess he adds that if we need it.

    - I'm not sure how much live rock we have. I remember it seemed like alot.

    - For waterflow, It's a newave high flow circulator, NWA 5500. It seems pretty powerful. I can see the water moving around the whole surface of the tank and when I put my hand in on the opposite side of the tank I can feel it.

    - We have a filter and a skimmer. The skimmer is Juwel 3.0. I can't find the box on the filter but it's a Juwel as well.

    - I can't get rid of the clownfish or the eel. My 9, 7, and 5 year olds went to an aquarium last spring and decided that they wanted a tank. They told all their relatives not to give them birthday presents because they wanted to pool their money to buy the tank and fish. They each put 250.00 towards the tank and had 80.00 left each to buy their fish. My oldest bought the eel. My youngest the Foxface which I replaced with the Clown for him when it died, and my 7 year old bought the Picasso (which I need to replace for him). My husband bought the 2 Damsels because they were inexpensive and a couple. But now the three that are left feel like family. So I can't get rid of any of them. Is there a way to make it work? The fish man says the eel is fully grown. He hasn't seemed to get any bigger since we got him in September.

    - I don't know that we were thinking in terms on aggressive vs peaceful. More in terms of what could get along together. Right now we have two fish and the eel. I'd like to have 4 or 5 fish with the eel if that's possible but happy fish.

    - Definitely can change the rocks.

    - The lighting, I don't know. When we bought the tank we bought everything new for a marine tank set up. But I can't find the box on it, so and not sure exactly what it is.

    I appreciate you taking time to look at this. This tank has been a much bigger investment than I ever imagined but I really do love the fish in it. And want to love the tank.

  4. #14


    0 Not allowed!
    The biggest problem that I see is your nitrate levels.

    If you improve your water quality, you will not loose as many fish. 40ppm of nitrate is very very high and not good for the long term health of your fish. Your nitrates likely climbed up slowly over time allowing your current fish to slowly get used to it. That is what is stressing our newly added fish resulting in a stress related death in a matter of days/weeks. You have to keep in mind, the fish that we keep in the hobby come from or near the coral reefs which typically has a nitrate level of 0.5 to 0.003 ppm. Nitrate starts to become toxic to fish at 40ppm. What you are dealing with here is coming referred to as “Old Tank Syndrome” . In your case , the cause has little to do with how long your tank was maintained but more to do with how it was not correctly maintained.. Here is what I would suggest to fix this:

    A) Start cleaning the filter media from your filter in old tank water 2 or 3 times a week. It likely has a large build-up of gunk which is adding nitrates to the water
    B) Start doing 15 to 25% water changes every second day. You need to lower the nitrate levels in the tank slowly over a period of a few weeks.
    C) Test the water before each water change. Once you get a reading of less than 5ppm, start spacing out the water changes every 4th day. You have to keep in mind, your live rock is like a sponge. It would have been soaking up nitrates out of the water all this time. Once you lower the nitrate level in the water, the rocks will start releasing some of the nitrates they soaked up back into your water. You will have to continue with the waterchanges for a while to get the nitrates out of the rock. What you are basically doing here is curing your rock again.
    D) Make sure you maintain your salinity between 1.025 and 1.026 specific gravity (~35.5PPT). This will help to ensure your pH and other parameters stay stable while completing all these water changes
    E) For the next week or two, cut back a lot on your feeding. Maybe even skip feeding the tank every third day. You would be surprised at how little food fish can truly thrive on.
    F) Considering completing all your maintenance and testing yourself. There are a lot of members here will to help you through this. In my experience, marine aquariums are not all that hard to keep. If I can learn this stuff, anyone can. It is easier that you think it is right now.

    In short, this is easy to fix, but will just require some short-term extra work.

    Once the nitrate levels are in-line, there are a lot of other fish and invertebrates we can look at for your tank. No sense adding them now as they will not survive too long in your water

    I hope this helps
    Last edited by Cliff; 02-14-2013 at 07:18 PM.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL=""]

  5. Default

    0 Not allowed!

    We will start by changing the water first thing tommorrow.

  6. #16


    0 Not allowed!
    What is your nh3 (ammonia) levels at?

    Can try to re-arrange the rock and add hiding places for the fish. The eel would love a piece of PVC which can be buried under the sand.
    300g + 240g in wall build! - Follow Here
    120g SW Reef, LED lights, cool fish and corals!

  7. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    glarior our nh3 is a 40 - which is what the fish man marked as being ideal on the box - tonight is the first time I've used a stick test because usually he does it in a test tube. The package says 0 - 10 is safe but he made black marks on the package when I went by to indicate what the ideal values should be. He marked 40 as the ideal. So now I'm not sure what to think.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #18


    0 Not allowed!
    If your ammonia was at 40ppm, everything would be dead. Any amount, even 0.25ppm is toxic to all marine life. There is no amount of ammonia that is safe in a marine aquarium.

    0 to 10 ppm of nitrates are safe(ish), although certainly not ideal. Perhaps he is misreading the labels ?

    If you keep up on the water changes and filter maintenance as I have suggested, your other water parameters will start to fall in line after a few water changes.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL=""]

  9. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Will do. My husband got some water so we're going to try cleaning it ourselves tonight.


  10. Default

    0 Not allowed!

    Do you have any idea why the nitrate level would be so high on such a new tank? The boys got it for their birthdays in July. It was cycled for 5 weeks. Then had the fox face rabbit fish added on the 19th of August. The eel was added on the 20th or 21st of september, the Picasso on the 20th or 21st of October the clown mid nov and the damsels end of Nov. The tank was professionally cleaned (70 euros a time) every 30 -35 days. I don't understand why the levels are so off.

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