Sump for 72 Gallon Freshwater

**waack** · 02-14-2013, 06:58 AM

I just got my tank today all drilled and plumbing for a bean animal, not coast to coast but same style. I like the second design also, with the bean animal you in fact may not have any air bubbles from the tank, that's the aim of it. So having a drip plate and emerged bio filtration is better in my opinion, and thats what i'm doing

**Cliff** · 02-14-2013, 11:38 AM

No matter if you have a Ocean overflow, bean anmial, or duriso stand pipe, they are all gravity feed drain systems that require a intake of air in order for the water to flow into and down the drain. The correct mixture of air and flow will make any of them dead silient. All of them work very well.

**mrramsey** · 02-15-2013, 02:53 PM

I have decided to use the 20g because I already have it. I have redesigned it a bit though. It will have about 5.9 gallons of reserve space.

I eliminated the sock filters and added some fine filtration media above the drip plate. I added a secondary media chamber for carbon etc. The operating water level is 6".

sump3.jpg

**mrramsey** · 02-15-2013, 03:14 PM

I also have a question about bulkheads... On the interior side of the tank what glue should be used? Regular pvc cement or aquarium safe silicone?

**glarior** · 02-15-2013, 04:24 PM

Plan looks good!

I used PVC glue for all my fittings and now prefer the kind that can be used in wet applications since it dries faster. However, I did not pvc glue the returns in the overflow box. They slip in so if I ever had to remove them it would be easy.

I have also used threaded bulk heads with lots of liquid pipe tape and had no problems.

**mrramsey** · 02-15-2013, 05:03 PM

Thanks Glarior - going to have the glass cut today but right now I am deciding if I want to take the tank and have it drilled for an external pump.

**glarior** · 02-15-2013, 05:41 PM

Originally Posted by mrramsey

Thanks Glarior - going to have the glass cut today but right now I am deciding if I want to take the tank and have it drilled for an external pump.

You mean having a internal overflow box? If so, its worth it IMO. I had my 240 drilled and if I would have known better I would have had each end drilled for dual overflows.

**Cliff** · 02-15-2013, 06:19 PM

+1 to the overflow box. When used correctly that can reduce the flow back into the sump should the return pump fail

I would suggest attaching your drain line together, either using threaded fittings or plain end fittings with PVC cement. Standard PVC fittings with plain ends are not menat to be just put together. Even on a drain line with limited / very low pressure

You can use a union fitting in the line to allow you to take it apart later should you need to move the set-up.

**mrramsey** · 02-15-2013, 06:37 PM

Sorry let me clarify... Was thinking of drilling the sump tank for an external pump. I have an internal overflow... it holds appx 2.5 gallons which is why I have 5.9 gallons on extra room in the sump. The outside of the bulkhead has FIP threads the interior side of the bulkhead has a glue/slip fitting.

**Cliff** · 02-15-2013, 06:41 PM

Ah... then yes, that would be a great idea.

You could gain a lot of room in your sump and you have room for this under your tank. I would suggest using flexable PVC line for your return pump. It makes it a lot easier to get your pump level with your bulkhead flange on your sump.