FINALLY Got a New (60 Gallon Again) Setup for my Goldies...Lots of Questions Now

[Honey Badger 1]

The height of my tank itself is 2ft tall, the height of the tank plus the height of the stand is 57 inches tall, I just measured. I use a bench to stand on when I change water and clean the gravel.
When I said it could slide off the stand I didn't mean all at once, that is why I put the word, slowly, in my post. I have seen tanks slide "slowly" when they aren't sitting level, and if left alone will eventually slide enough to fall.
Yes, doing a water change will prolong the cycle, that's the price you pay for cycling with fish. You have to do water changes to keep the toxins at a tolerable level for your fish or they will die, it's that simple. Testing the water with a quality liquid test kit is the only way to know for sure when it is time to change water and how much. Until you are testing at least once a day, I recommend you change a good amount of water daily, at least half the volume of the tank. There is not enough bacteria, if any, in the water to make a difference to the cycle. Bacteria grows in the filter media, and on hard surfaces in the tank. Re-read this thread, it will answer your cycling questions, http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492
If you think the lighting on the tank is that ugly go to the lfs and buy lights in a different spectrum. You don't have live plants in the tank so it isn't as though you need a specific k value. The packaging will tell you what each light will do. For example, bring out colors of the fish, plants, daylight, etc... Just make sure you buy the correct size and type for your fixture, the lfs people can help you decide.

[ClinicaTerraLTD]

Thank you, everyone; I will try and reply to each of you individually but right now I'm in a bit of a rush, so let me just share what my API test results were from last night for the time being, so perhaps someone could help me analyze what is currently happening in the tank:

PH: 7.6 or possibly HIGHER
Hi PH: 8.0
Ammonia: 0-0.25 (this has ALWAYS been impossible to read in my tanks for some reason; probably because goldfish, all I have kept in this current house, generate constant amounts of this stuff -- but it's NOT over 0.25)
Nitrite: 0ppm
NitrAte: 5.0ppm

[ClinicaTerraLTD]

Leveling your stand is really the best thing you can do right now. You could wait for it to squash the matting down enough to make itself level, but that is a risk that I wouldn't take personally, I've had a tank break before too and I know just how much of a pain it is. Another tip that I use is to put two or three layers of decoupling mat in between the tank and the stand, spreads the weight out a little bit more, and helps it level the tank against the stand.

Thanks for your reply.

Indeed, I have heard of the "styrofoam beneath the tank" thing too, in which this is supposed to add a further cushion and leveling element between the tank and stand, but the thing is, because I'm in the midst of a cycle, I don't want to power down my filters to do a complete water drain...right now, the tank seems stable and not slipping forward so I can wait, I hope and pray, for about a month when I can do a very large water change to ease the weight so I can lift up the feet of the stand to get something under it...

Should I be looking to level out the tank from the bottom of the tank itself -- or from the stand?

The problem with your air pumps is they are pushing against too much water to get to the bottom. You should invest in a larger pump.

But from what I understand, the pumps I'm using -- especially the Rena Air 400, which is their flagship pump, have adequate power for a "mere" 60 gallon...do you think it's because this tank is just so dang deep? As for pumps, I wouldn't be against getting a new pump that's more powerful, but I don't know of any good ones outside of the basic crap Petsmart sells (basically Tetra and their "deep water" line)...can you suggest a powerful pump that can feed two bubble bars in a pretty deep tank?

[ClinicaTerraLTD]

Lower the water level so that it is only visibly touching the top frame when viewed from the outside, Then take some good pics so we can see the drop/how much it is off level. This will go much farther than any description.

I shall do my best as soon as I can; thank you. My wife is actually the one with the better camera built into her phone, so as soon as she gets home I'll ask her to do some shots and upload 'em.

Yes you can fix it and you actually outlined the exact process. It's not likely to slide off the stand IMO but tanks are not made to have lateral stresses - much less CONSTANT lateral stress on them at all. The best reason I can give you to do soething about it is that it's simply and explicitly not what they are designed for and considering that this is sitting in the exact same spot as before it is THE likely contributing factor. You now have a good reason for the first tank cracking

Oh, if you would have seen the images of the last tank's crack in the rear glass, you would agree that in no way was it a matter of just a floor being a bit unlevel -- this crack was SEVERE and jagged, right down one side of the back of it, and more than likely due to the SCALDING hot water I cleaned it out with, and then the cool water I used to fill it back up, which must have weakened the seals...

In fact, when I posted images of what the cracked, broken tank looked like after it was drained and ready to be thrown out, I got a lot of feedback from folks on varying aquarium hobbyist forums who stated it DEFINITELY looked like the tank may have been structurally damaged to begin with, out of the factory, due to how severe and nasty the jagged crack was...

[ClinicaTerraLTD]

After skimming the articles all I can say is do as Mommy1 says - redo it. A large piece of wood (thick enough to hold the weight) can be used to provide a stable surface for the stand on the carpet. Don't try and live with a tank that is leaning too much - besides a constant worry, it will be rally annoying to look at. The other advantage with a large flat wood panel for the support is it is then easy to shim the stand if the floor is not level. Best of luck!

Thank you, Cermet.

Indeed, it is crummy to look at; coupled with the G-d awful ugly lighting the included hoods give off, I'm not really digging this new set up, at all...

Do you think the tank should be leveled at the STAND or at the tank itself?

Some day I may try and read your post (many in the Northeast will have the time if they still have power!) but that is way too long for my Saturday morning!
Joking aside - always better to provide more info than less but the old saying, a picture is worth a thousand words might really apply in your case ... lol.

I understand, and I apologize with all my heart about the long post -- I just tried to provide as much information about my previous situation for those who didn't know about it on here. I realize what's going on in the Northeast; I used to reside in New York and all my friends are still there and telling me about the snow from Nemo that's coming on the heels of Sandy that wiped them out...

Far more seriously, your filter is uncycled so water changes of 50% to close to 100% will be required. Until you get a test kit, do at least 50% every day until you know what the ammonia, and especially the nitrites are reaching (goldfish produce a lot of waste-this explains your past issues, I'd think.) It takes longer to cycle with fish (four to six weeks) so water changes will be a fact of life. Again, good luck and keep the ammonia under 0.25 ppm and nitrite under 0.1 ppm when you can measure the water values.

I did take water test readings and posted them here from last night -- please analyze them when you can and give me your feedback...

As for 50% water changes, is that really necessary EVERY DAY right now? The tank is attempting to cycle, and I am using Seachem's Stability to aid in that, and the Ammonia readings from the API kit came back as between 0 and 0.25ppm -- is this not okay right now?

[ClinicaTerraLTD]

Thanks mommy...

The height of my tank itself is 2ft tall, the height of the tank plus the height of the stand is 57 inches tall, I just measured. I use a bench to stand on when I change water and clean the gravel.

Indeed, I have to take a bridge chair from our office across the hall and stand on that to get to the bottom of this tank...I can't stand it. The last tank had width and length and did not need anything to stand on to get to the bottom. So, your tank is around the same height as mine?

When I said it could slide off the stand I didn't mean all at once, that is why I put the word, slowly, in my post. I have seen tanks slide "slowly" when they aren't sitting level, and if left alone will eventually slide enough to fall.

Okay, my apologies for misinterpretting that; I will keep an eye on the tank to see if it begins to slide slowly forward...

Yes, doing a water change will prolong the cycle, that's the price you pay for cycling with fish. You have to do water changes to keep the toxins at a tolerable level for your fish or they will die, it's that simple. Testing the water with a quality liquid test kit is the only way to know for sure when it is time to change water and how much. Until you are testing at least once a day, I recommend you change a good amount of water daily, at least half the volume of the tank. There is not enough bacteria, if any, in the water to make a difference to the cycle. Bacteria grows in the filter media, and on hard surfaces in the tank. Re-read this thread, it will answer your cycling questions, http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

I in fact took readings via the API Freshwater Master Kit and posted them in this thread; please have a look when you have a chance and let me know if the numbers look okay or not in your opinion. Ammonia, one of the more vital readings, didn't appear to be above 0.25ppm...

If you think the lighting on the tank is that ugly go to the lfs and buy lights in a different spectrum. You don't have live plants in the tank so it isn't as though you need a specific k value. The packaging will tell you what each light will do. For example, bring out colors of the fish, plants, daylight, etc... Just make sure you buy the correct size and type for your fixture, the lfs people can help you decide.

I don't have to change out the whole hood if I want to change the lighting, do I? I don't quite know what I am looking for with regard to lighting; I am probably looking for something along the lines of bright LEDs, but I do like that "shimmering" effect some bulbs claim to give...

I know Marineland makes some kind of a day/night system where the day gives off a natural illumination and the night gives a blue hue to the tank; I'm not sure if I would dig that, but it did seem intriguing. Do you have any experience with these?

[Lady10Godiva]

A fix to your air pump problem would be to use bubble wands that stick to the side of the tank and then dont put them all the way to the bottom. I have a two foot deep tank too and if I dont position the air stones higher in the tank I get little air. (I have a whisper 60 air pump on it.) I have it running sponge filters so I have them for qt use.

On another tank I have a tetra deepwater pump and it works great. I have the one with two outlets (they have renamed it since I have an old model that came with a craigslist deal). They are pricey for air pumps though, I think the same deepwater pump starts at $35.

[Honey Badger 1]

Since you have always had a bit of ammonia, I would guess it's because you don't have enough filtration to handle the bio-load of the fish in the tank. I don't remember what filter you have on the tank, and I am not going to re-read that epic opening post to find out. Instead I will just say, the AC110 with extra bio-max (from your other thread) will help. Keep in mind, this new tank is not cycled yet, and it will still take a bit of time for the ammonia to reach 0ppm, keep up with the water changes.

And, I am still waiting for pictures of your tank.

[ClinicaTerraLTD]

A fix to your air pump problem would be to use bubble wands that stick to the side of the tank and then dont put them all the way to the bottom. I have a two foot deep tank too and if I dont position the air stones higher in the tank I get little air. (I have a whisper 60 air pump on it.) I have it running sponge filters so I have them for qt use.

I've used the Top Fin stick-to-the-glass-with-suction-cups wands and they were just HORRIBLE; I don't think I'd like the look, anyway, of wands not all the way to the bottom...I too have the Whisper 60 on one of my bars...

On another tank I have a tetra deepwater pump and it works great. I have the one with two outlets (they have renamed it since I have an old model that came with a craigslist deal). They are pricey for air pumps though, I think the same deepwater pump starts at $35.

Yeah, I eyeballed the Tetra deep water pumps at Petsmart -- they're ridiculously priced, as you said, and get horrible reviews by users though.

[fishmommie]

+ to all previous posts.
It's probably too late but if you have any filter media from your 10 gallon that didn't get dried out transfer it to your new filters. It's not much but it would help speed the cycle along a bit.