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Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19
  1. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Any recommendations on a model or brand of heater. I will do a quick search to see what I can find online but all the ones at the local store only have a single setting and are for use in tanks 2 gallons or larger.

    Would adding salt help in this case to get rid of the ick?

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ypsilanti, Michigan
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    A lovely red rose for you to enjoy ... - mermaidwannabe for the help - smaug Happy Father's Day! - Aminax awesome tank in TOTM - Lady Hobbs Good guess! - Lab_Rat 
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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    adding salt is one way of treating ich but it must also be combined with heat above 82F to be successful IIRC.

    I would also guess that the temperature drop is what caused the ich. Just like humans are constantly surrounded by viruses but we don't often get sick, fish will live surrounded by disease generally will stay healthy until something happens to weaken them, and in your case it was probably the temperature that did it.

    I keep my bettas at about 78F (25.5C) and that seems to suit them, although higher would be okay as well. I don't know that you're going to find adjustable ones for a tank that small, most of the smaller ones are permanently set at 78 or a similar temperature. This may not be ideal but it would still be much improved over no heater at all. The trick is going to be finding one sized small enough. You don't want an overpowered one that can cook your tank in the blink of an eye.
    300 gallon mega tank: build in progress
    75 gallon community tank: tetras, danios, corys, platies, otos, pearl gouramis, bristlenose pleco, assassin snails, red cherry shrimp, bamboo shrimp
    70 gallon growout tank: clown loaches, sailfin pleco
    60 gallon goldfish tank: fancy goldfish
    29 gallon frog tank: 1 bullfrog
    10 gallon and 5.5 gallon betta tanks: 1 male betta each, sometimes snails

  3. #13

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Yes, it could but you would need to pair the salt with a heater to get the temp up - salt plus heat slows down or stops the ick from multiplying in the substrate. I'm not sure how much salt you would use because I used meds when I treated my tank - there is probably an article here on the forum about this.

    Really - all the heaters are preset in your store? Honestly, I'm not familiar with all the brands except Marineland or Tetra. You could look for a heater good for up to 10gal and that would do fine - you would just need to monitor the temp so it doesn't go too high (a thermometer would also be needed) and keep up with water changes (like 2-3 times a day) because the heat decreases the oxygen level in the water - water changes break the surface of the water to add oxygen.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT
    Remember: Our job is to take care of the water our fish live in

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    All of the adjustable heaters are rated for 2-10 gallons. If I got the smallest wattage one available do you think it would be ok? Or should I just get one of the non-adjustable ones that are designed for 1.5 gallon betta tanks like the "Betta Stick" or Hycor 7.5 (for .5 to 3 gallon)?

  5. #15

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Any chance you could purchase a stand to go with a 5g tank? That would help solve your problems, and not take away any of your current counter top/table space. Heck even build one! :) 5g's are extremely small, and you can put one just about anywhere. It just depends on your determination! If you want it to work, you'll find a way to make it work.

    Then you'll have no problems finding a heater, and will be on your way to treating the ick.

    I know what it's like to live in a small place. My husband, son, and I just moved from a 900sq ft home. In it was a 55g, and a 10g. Sure it was cramped, but we made it work because we wanted it to. Best of luck to you!
    130g: 4 Angelfish, 2 Roseline Sharks, 12 Conga Tetras, 5 Kuhli Loaches, 1 Otocinslus, 1 Corydora

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I wasn't referring to actual counter space but floor space along a wall. Aside from placing directly in the middle of the kitchen or living room there is just no place to put it. We are planning a move within the next 6 months and hopefully will have more room then.

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I agree with what everyone has said.

    In the meantime, until you can get a larger tank and an appropriate filter, keep him in the largest tank you have and change his water a min of 2 X a week. See if you can find a small heater as constant heat is a critical factor in getting him better and then avoiding future illness. It won't be very costly and you can transfer it to the 5 gallon when you find space for it.

    You asked about salt for treating ich. If you are already treating him with ich medication, then I'd stay the course. Do not mix salt and medication. The meds should take care of the problem IF you can also stabilize his tank temp.
    Good luck
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  8. #18

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I realize, most of the fish keeping mistakes you have made, are just that. Simply not knowing, which is how many start out unaware. Many stores sell these small tanks for Betta, and so the consumer thinks, well, they make them, so they must know its okay. You aren't alone, and many children, like your son end up mourning ill and dying fish due to poor housing arrangements. I feel for your situation, I really do.

    You might consider a hexagon tank, which will give more gallons while taking up a small footprint on a surface. This may not be possible however, so, until you move, here is what I would suggest.

    Betta need a particular husbandry to thrive. Though the current tank is too small, you can do much to improve the current situation.

    Get a different filter. At most pet stores in the aquarium department are sponge filters, there are many types, but they are small (like a block behind plastic) that run via an air pump. You may have to purchase the air pump separately. These filters work well for small spaces, and do not cause the suction and flow of other filters. Keep this running at all times. A sponge filter will also have the benefit of oxygenating the water, so you will have no need for an extra air stone during any treatment.

    Heater. There are several types, but make SURE you get one rated for a very small tank. Though i always recommend one with an adjustable dial, those are meant for bigger tanks. Betta require 82 degrees, but that in so small a tank will be impossible. A heater that can do that would likely overwhelm the tank, and cook the fish. I suggest the smallest pre-set 78 degree heater you can get your hands on. They are submersible, and you will need a thermometer, but not a "stick on" type that goes on the outside. Get one that goes on the inside and monitor the temperature.

    Add salt. Aquarium salt is cheap, and use the dose per gallon on the back of the package. When you do water changes, only add the amount of salt equal to the water you removed. Treat with salt until at least ten days after the last ich spot is seen. To remove salt, don't do anything special except regular weekly water changes and adding no more salt.

    Since your tank is so small and uncycled, change 50 percent of the water, every day. Since there is so little water, there is not enough to dillute the wastes from the excretion and aspiration of the fish, therefore you need to do it manually. Since the water is of low volume, this should be a quick and easy thing to do daily taking a few minutes. Make sure to use dechlorinator, such as Prime with all water going into the tank.

    Make sure substrate is clean, or better yet, remove it. If you have gravel on the bottom, take it out, it will only serve as an area for debris to build up.

    Heat + salt + daily water changes, should improve the health of your fish and keep him well, until you are able to give him larger accomodations.
    2 10 gallon tanks, 1 20 gallon tank, 1 Fluval Edge, 1 29 gallon tank, and one backyard pond.

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Tiara said: "Add salt. Aquarium salt is cheap, and use the dose per gallon on the back of the package. When you do water changes, only add the amount of salt equal to the water you removed. Treat with salt until at least ten days after the last ich spot is seen. To remove salt, don't do anything special except regular weekly water changes and adding no more salt."

    this is an effective ich treatment. If you do go the salt route, make certain you discontinue the medication you are using.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

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