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Results 31 to 40 of 183
  1. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    I really like your rockwork by the way. And I agree that your lighting is probably too weak for the plants. When my Marsilea took off, I wasn't dosing ferts or using CO2, but my lighting is much stronger than yours. Beautiful ram; looks like a female to me, but it's hard to tell until they really mature and show full color.

  2. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks for the compliments! I want to upgrade eventually, but they are pricey. If i upgraded in the short-term, it would be to dual T5 (colormax and 6700k) lighting. It really must be the lighting for the most part that causes problems. The plants that are in that tank that are actually SUITED for low light (anubias and crypts) are for the most part pretty green, with the exception of the big anubias rhizome that I just didn't leave enough roots on it when I propagated. Their growth is painfully slow though, so i do like the wisteria in that respect. But let that be a lesson to me: lighting is key, low light equals low light plants. I have learned from experience

    I also received liquid nutrient today from aquabid. Soon I'll kick up the DIY CO2 again, with bubble counter and airstone diffuser this time. I'll keep posting too as the ram gets prettier (knock on wood)! And lastly, I'm waiting for three black neons to finish a 2 week quarantine period to add to my school of 5 for a total of 8. 2 weeks to go! (maybe more if they aren't looking so great)
    Tanks: 30 gal community and 10 gal shrimp/community
    Journals Here

  3. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    For the most part, I consider low-light plants to be those that would "survive" but not really thrive under low lighting. They may seem ok under low lights, but they would really take off if put under stronger lights. Some people like this in plants, especially in smaller tanks, because they're not having to constantly trim their plants like I do. They also don't need to worry about dosing ferts and adding CO2 which makes it a very appeasing route for those that want a simple tank that still looks nice with the live plants.

  4. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Added black background from Hobby Lobby or somewhere like that, and java moss since I found a new lfs! Really stoked about that. They had healthier looking characins and cyprinids than petsmart and petco, as well as true siamese algae eaters and kribensis. I don't regret buying the bolivian ram 1 bit. No ottocinclus though. However, They did say they could take orders on fish, so that might be something to think about. I also got some little java fern and windelov, since I guess they were engulfed in the clump of java moss the store person scooped up. So, I spent a portion of the day supergluing (it was the only way) little rhizomes of java fern to rocks. Can't guarantee they will grow, but for now they at least look nice. So some pics are in order!IMGP4378.jpgIMGP4380.jpgIMGP4385.jpgIMGP4386.jpgIMGP4387.jpg
    Tanks: 30 gal community and 10 gal shrimp/community
    Journals Here

  5. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    A couple of the new black neon tetras have Ich. Should I keep them In the tank and treat the whole tank? Or move them to the quarantine, without a working heater, and just attempt to treat them? Based upon waht I have read, i should treat the whole tank.
    Tanks: 30 gal community and 10 gal shrimp/community
    Journals Here

  6. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    If one has it, they can all have it, even if they're not showing any symptoms [yet]. Plus, one of the life-cycle forms is free-floating in the water column so you'll want to make sure the entire tank is treated. It's been years since I've had to deal with ich, but I believe what I did was raise the water temperature to speed up the life-cycle, added freshwater aquarium salt, and did lots of water changes. A UV-sterilizer would really help if you have one available.

  7. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Doesn't sound too hard! Aquarium salt is NaCl, right? I've also heard many instances of table salt being used, as long as it's not iodized. I'm using this link for info (thanks for the link LH!)
    Tanks: 30 gal community and 10 gal shrimp/community
    Journals Here

  8. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Whatever works man. Like I said, it's been a long time since I've had to deal with it, so I don't recall the best process. I'm sure there's plenty of good information on this forum to guide you. If you have the funds, I still recommend getting a UV-sterilizer. I keep one on hand for the occasional green water (when starting a new tank), but it's also great to have for sick fish. Maybe I've just been lucky though; I don't quarantine my fish, but in the past several years that I've kept planted tanks, none of my fish have ever gotten sick (I had plenty of sick fish before going the planted route though). But I've also been sure to drip acclimate all new arrivals and net the fish before putting them into the tank so that I'm not getting any of the pet store water in there. I really hope that whatever method you go with yields a speedy recovery for your fish. Good luck.

  9. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks! I'll keep up the updates. I'm slowly raising the water temp right now to about 86 degrees or so.
    I swear, this is the last time I'm going to petsmart for little fish like these tetras. Yes, the Bolivian Ram is great, but in the past, when I try to up my schools, something like this always happens. And only the new arrivals die. It agitates me to no end. I also discovered a great new lfs, so I'll be going there for fish now on.
    Supplies to get (whenever I have time and money), in no particular order
    Heater for QT tank.
    New lighting, probably T5
    Better fish food than frozen brine shrimp and flakes, hoping to go the DIY route
    Thats pretty much it. The list used to be a lot bigger, so I'm optimistic about that.
    Tanks: 30 gal community and 10 gal shrimp/community
    Journals Here

  10. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    I always buy my neon tetras from Petsmart (when they're on sale for $1 each of course), and I used to have the same problem as you. I would assume that half of them would be dead within 24 hours, and sometimes that was true. But ever since I started drip acclimating them, I haven't had any issues. I picked up this habit after needing to drip acclimate all of the corals for my reef tank (and really drip acclimation is a must for pretty much anything live going into a saltwater tank due to the numerous water characteristics that can vary greatly from tank to tank). I figured I might as well carry this habit over to my freshwater tank and it's totally worth the extra time involved to keep the fish healthier.

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