Results 11 to 20 of 177
02-06-2013, 04:29 AM #11
Cory cat move?
Should I move the Emerald green cory from my 10 gallon into the 30 gall? He loves the sand in the 10 gal, but he would be the only bottom feeder in the 30. I'm reluctant because I don't think I want a school of them in the long run in the 30 gal (I would like sterbais or dwarf chain loaches), but I'm considering this move because I really want my dwarf four leaf clover to grow into a luscious carpet. I know it would be possible especially with the CO2 I just added, but again, the cory cat loves to uproot in the sand.
02-09-2013, 06:16 PM #12
I moved the cory. He seems fine after 3 days, although he did do a lot of glass surfing at first. To update on my ten gallon: The CO2 has been running well, and it seems to have made a difference in the twig of wisteria I have in there and the marsilea hirsuta. The dwarf four leaf seems to have become a little thicker. It sends out an occasional runner. Is there anything else I can do to help speed up its growth, besides liquid fertilizers? The goal is for it to become a carpet in the whole tank, but i know pool filter sand is very low on nutrients.
02-11-2013, 05:10 AM #13
I want your opinions: Fungus?
I need everyone's help here and now. In my 30 gal, All but 1 of my Harlequin rasboras look white, some on hte fins, some on the tops of the head, some near the tail. I suspect fungus. I also found one lying on it's side on the bottom of the tank, so I scooped him up with a net, and within 8 minutes he was back to swimming normally. A couple of them were gulping the surface as if for oxygen, and 1 was actually holding his mouth open along the surface. They are also gulping the water too, and I can see their gills move. They seem to go into convulsions too. Not good. I didn't notice this behavior this morning, although 1 has always looked whiter than the others, but because it didn't affect his behavior, I dismissed this. I thought he was just a runt because he was smaller than the rest too. None of my other fish (the black neons, clown pleco, and 1 cory cat) are affected. Here is the evidence/circumstances/sequence of events.
Yesterday: did a 25% water change.
Today, about 9 Am: turned on lights, everything looked fine.
about 9:30 - Gave them some brine shrimp, something I rarely do. There was a lot left over, because I didn't put some in my ten gallon like I usually do.
afternoon: noticed the runt was off by himself near the top of the tank. Cue suspicion.
evening, around 8:15 - decided to make a current diffuser for the tank. http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...=flow+diverter I did, and as i put it in, I thought my big rasbora looked a little white. upon closer examination, I realized a few of my rasboras looked white. I immediately tested like crazy: pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. Ammonia was good. nitrite was good. pH just as I had left it. But my nitrate had skyrocketed to over 60 ppm, possibly 100. This was strange, because my nitrate is usually below 20 ppm, and i did the water change yesterday. I have 90 gallons of filtration too. I even tested twice to make sure. When my testing was done, I couldn't find the runt rasbora. Thats when he was lying on his side. I then did a 50% water change. I suspect the nitrate came from all the leftover food from this morning, but I had no idea it could happen so fast. Now, they have stopped gulping the water and air and I have put them to bed. The convulsions are still going on and they are still swimming a little wobbly-like. I have some fungus guard, but I'll check tomorrow if things are worse. Then i'll use it, if the white tuff has spread or looked more like a fungus. This whole thing really stinks, because 2 weeks ago, I ordered a heater for a quarantine tank, and it has yet to arrive. If I had that I could set one up.
So: What could have caused this? what do you think this disease is, and what should I do about it?
Thanks for the help! Quick replies appreciated
Last edited by Greentoads41; 02-11-2013 at 05:16 AM.
02-12-2013, 12:19 AM #14
Lost 2 rasboras. Boo :( I obviously should have posted that in the disease section or general aquarium, but too late. All my other fish look fine and are swimming normally, but 1 rasbora is still whiter than the rest. I think the water change helped a LOT!
02-13-2013, 04:09 AM #15
02-13-2013, 04:13 AM #16
02-18-2013, 03:58 AM #17
Got my quaratntine set up, got 1 rasbora in there with some fungus guard. I'll wait 2 more days, and if the white on his fins havn't gone away, I'll start doing water changes. Got the temp at about 75 degrees in a 4 gallon tank with a ten gallon filter. My 10 gallon was looking very pretty today, although I really haven't seen much new growth on the Marsilea Hirsuta. I think I'll spread out some root tabs tomorrow. My 2 glowlight tetras were seen playing in the wisteria yesterday, something I've never seen them do. Very cool. I'm thinking if in about 4 months if my clover hasn't caught, I'll give up, buy java moss and attempt to carpet that. Either way, in four months I want shrimp and a school of glolights for the 10 gal. I plan on getting fish next weekend too. The plants and fish look good in the 30 gal, i just keep chopping off wisteria leafs that seem to have a deficiency. I now have 2 flow diffusers on my 2 HOB's, and it really did make an impact on fish behavior. I think i'll make 1 for the 10 gallon too.
02-21-2013, 03:44 AM #18
When I saw that you're putting the CO2 into the filter intake, I immediately thought that's your issue. Without a heavily planted tank where the plants are consuming the ammonia, you're relying on the bacteria to do it. If your putting the CO2 directly into the filter intake, you're creating an incredibly harsh environment for the bacteria. But then it's strange that your ammonia is "good" (I'm assuming you mean zero, if not, there's a problem). Please double check that value and verify that the ammonia actually is zero.
Your plants are definitely nutrient deficient. You should look into adding both root tabs and liquid ferts. I believe that's why my plants grow rather quickly, and I never deal with algae. Using the correct ratio of ferts is vital. I dose dry ferts starting with a calculated ratio that the plants should need, then watch the plants and adjust accordingly based on any deficiency symptoms that I may see on new and old leaves. Also, if you're going to dose CO2, I would highly suggest getting a drop checker to have a better idea of the concentration within the tank. It won't be incredibly accurate, but it should at least give you an idea if it's too little or too much; basically to keep you within an acceptable range.
Check all the parameters that you're able to test for and post them here, including what test kits you're using. That may help us get a better idea of what may be going on in your tank.
02-21-2013, 04:18 AM #19
Thanks for the in depth reply. I do have API root tabs scattered in the 30 gal, not dosed on a schedule nor same distance apart. I have 3 root tabs in the ten gal, 1 directly under the dwarf clover, 1 on the edge of the clover, and 1 on the other edge. Ammonia results: .25 in the 10, 0 in the thirty, and between .5 and 1 is my tap water's reading. Way to call the ammonia register My 10 gallon fish stock isn't at all stressed, though. Should I move my CO2 outtake away from the filter intake then? If there is too much CO2, will the plants not grow? Theres so much to learn
nitrite readings both 0 ppm.
nitrate: a bit high in the 10 gal, 20 ppm. 10 ppm in the 30 gal.
pH: tap water and both tanks at 7.7
I use API liquid test kit.
02-21-2013, 04:41 AM #20
Keeping the CO2 within reason is for the fish's health. You should be concerned about the ammonia reading int he 10g. Was it reading 0ppm before adding CO2? How long has that tank been set up for. If it was previously cycled then something has disrupted it, possibly the CO2 in the filter but it can be something else. A little background on that tank would be helpful.
And keep in mind that it's important that if you make any changes, do them one at a time so that you can see what was causing the problem.