Results 11 to 20 of 34
-
02-03-2013, 01:21 AM #11
Even though other fish show no signs of it, it takes a while for the parasite to form the white cyst, and they may already be infected with it. To treat, without Ich medications, I have successfully used aquarium salt as a cure. Keep the temperature raised, and use aquarium salt, which can be purchased cheaply at an aquarium store. Use the recommended dose on the package. Mix the salt first with removed tank water in a clean container, and then add small amounts of that over a few hours, which will help keep the fish from stressing out. Do NOT add more salt -except- after your scheduled water changes. Only add salt for the amount of water you are replacing, not an entire dose for a tank. Salt will not evaporate out of the water, so do not add any salt when replacing water to tank from evaporation. DO use an air stone with an air pump, salt will lower oxygen levels in the water. Keep up regular tank mainentenance and water changes.
The salt will not kill the ich while it is on the fish, it will kill it once the cyst bursts and the parasite multiplies re-entering the water. Many parasite will find its way into the gravel, so it is important to regularly gravel vacuum extremely well to remove it. Keep up the salt treatment until at least ten days after the last spot has gone from off the fish.
To remove salt from the water, simply do regular water changes, and add no more salt, this will slowly over time remove the salt, and not stress the fish from to sudden of a salinity change.
I have successfully used this method when my neon tank broke out with Ich after a new neon was added to the tank without quarantine (big mistake). I did not lose a single fish.2 10 gallon tanks, 1 20 gallon tank, 1 Fluval Edge, 1 29 gallon tank, and one backyard pond.
-
02-03-2013, 01:22 AM #12
Sorry, did not see your other inhabitant post before I posted. The oto's will not handle the salt.
2 10 gallon tanks, 1 20 gallon tank, 1 Fluval Edge, 1 29 gallon tank, and one backyard pond.
-
02-03-2013, 01:47 AM #13
after reading the article 850r posted i wanted to add salt but as tiari pointed out my oto won't handle it.
i don't feel comfortable increasing the temp above 29,
so i'm left with med's
any recommendations or warnings because if i go to the store i'm probably goin for the cheapest stuff i can find.
thanks every body
-
02-03-2013, 02:04 AM #14
I'd wait for a brand suggestion.
I haven't had Ich in years so I have no brand suggestions but I would mention that considering you are trying to save an entire tank of fish [Ich spreads]... Going blindly down the budget route would not seem the best route to take IMO... Just saying.
My GF calls me insincere... I pretend to care.
Think about how stupid the average person is and then realize that half of them are stupider than that.~George Carlin.
It's not that great.~Otto Rohwedder. My optimistic pessimism is tempered with pessimistic optimism.
Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored.~Aldous Huxley.
William, What decade will all that 'hit-n-run crapola spam' be deleted from 'Buy & sell'?
-
02-03-2013, 02:45 AM #15
+1 - there are just certain things you shouldn't try and save money on - meds are one - if you buy something that doesn't have a good reputation of working, it's a waste of money. I have personally used Kordon 100% natural Ich Attack - I followed the bottle instructions, used it a bit longer than was recommended (which is always advised) and my ich was gone - lost 3 fish in the process (because ich will get into the gills & suffocate a fish). However, there are other brands which are also considered good. Unless a LFS employee has personally used something successfully in their own tank, I wouldn't ask advice from someone in a store either because they just want to make a sale.
46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted cory catfish, cherry barbs, guppies, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
5 gal QT with green corys & 2 guppies
-
02-03-2013, 02:52 AM #16
Formalin is a form of formaldehyde and is often used by fish farmers and home aquarists to treat ich. It can be purchased under its chemical name, or found as the active ingredient in products such as Ick Guard II® by Jungle, and Formalite III® by Aquatronics (which also contains copper). While it is non-staining and said to be safe for live plants (and at lower dosages…) scaleless fish, eggs and fry, it is nevertheless a strong chemical – a preservative for biological specimens (AKA embalming fluid). It may damage your biological filter, deplete oxygen levels in the aquarium, and destroy invertebrates and weak fish. Its toxicity increases with water temperature and acidity, making it a questionable choice for soft water fish.
this was in your link so i like the sound of this better than the other chemicals listed.
im going to get this as the active ingreident in the ick med
-
02-03-2013, 03:53 AM #17
what about this stuff
http://www.mrpets.ca/Products/Produc...&&categoryid=3
i found out it has these ingredients in it
Water, Formaldehyde (<5%), Methanol (<2%), Malachite Green Chloride (<0.1%)
-
02-03-2013, 04:43 AM #18
i would like to point out the fact that ick does not come out of nowhere.
it comes from a new fish you introduced
or
it comes from a stressed fish
since the later is what you have in your tank, based on your prior posts, and failed to listen to the members here regarding the gourami stressing your neons...i'm not surprised you are experiencing this issue.
i'll let others help you with those meds, should you chose to listen now.
-
02-03-2013, 04:46 AM #19
That should work. And it's hikari which is generally good stuff.
Over here in Europe we've got esha medication which are also really good but not on the market over there I think.
If you buy this I think I'd reduce the temp slightly back to 28 degrees. Remove any carbon from the filters. Read the bottle and instructions carefully. If it doesn't say anything about how long then try this: Dose for 3-4 days. Pause 2 days and do it again. Even when it's all gone from the fish keep up the treatment for 3-4 days. Ich is only vulnerable in it's free swimming stage.
Once you've beat this nasty critter you may want to see what you can do to prevent it. Ich can come in with new fish or plants but it can also suddenly pop up if the fish are in poor health for some reason. Ich is perfectly treatable and if you're in time and with a bit of luck you do not need to lose any fish but preventing this annoying parasite is even better.Last edited by talldutchie; 02-03-2013 at 04:49 AM.
-
02-03-2013, 06:53 AM #20
NO doubt Mizz
+1 Absolutely
[This was worth repeating]. This exact pair of facts is explicitly stated in section 2 of the the article I linked to also.
Here's an honest assessment based on the facts at hand:
With your post history, IE: Considering the amount of solid advice and info you have completely and utterly ignored in other threads and your consistent failure to follow written instructions I don't honestly have any hope at all for this going well.
Good luck, You are going to need it.
My GF calls me insincere... I pretend to care.
Think about how stupid the average person is and then realize that half of them are stupider than that.~George Carlin.
It's not that great.~Otto Rohwedder. My optimistic pessimism is tempered with pessimistic optimism.
Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored.~Aldous Huxley.
William, What decade will all that 'hit-n-run crapola spam' be deleted from 'Buy & sell'?







Welcome to the New AC. Please be patient while I try to resolve all the bugs this update is sure to bring. In the end it will all be worth it!!
Fish tank in a...
Today, 12:52 AM in Beginner Freshwater