General Suggestions for a newbie.

[Cermet]

One critical point - nitrites are very toxic to fish and 0.5 ppm is high; aim for 0.1 ppm with fish. Also, consider adding an air stone if you don't already have one running - the fish may very well have been injuried by those high nitrites/ammonia levels. Ammonia should be under 0.25 ppm. These numbers are essential to keep under if you want the fish to do well.

[dmagerl]

Those look like Java Ferns on the right side of the tank and also look like they're planted in the gravel.

The rhizomes for those should never be buried. The plant will die. Its best to tie them to a pieces of rock or wood to which the roots can attach themselves.

The one plant in the background looks like Wisteria.

[Taurus]

As for general tips, my philosophy is to over filter, under stock, and keep to an aggressive maintenance schedule. Follow those three rules and you shouldn't have any problems.

I'll just add keep the water clean and feed good foods. But that's still only 5 rules.

[mermaidwannabe]

I've seen no mention made of filtration, here. What filter do you have on this tank? Couldn't spot it in the photo.

I recommend, for your 10-gallon, an Aquaclear 20 hob. For your future 55 gallon, an Aquaclear 110. Both are hang-on-backs and very good filters.

Once the 10-gallon is cycled, you can take some of the media from it and seed the larger filter for the 55 with it. It will help that tank cycle faster. But only do that if your 10 is completely cycled and has been stable for awhile.

[fishmommie]

Everyone has given you good advice about stocking and cycling but here are a few more tips on getting your tank cycled.
First, you're doing a good job with your water changes. Until you get this tank cycled, though, you may have to continue to do 50 - 75% W/C daily to keep your ammonia around .25 (you need some ammonia to get the bacteria growing) and your nitrites below .50. Nitrates should not exceed 20ppm.
Always test before you do your water change, not after for a true reading. your API liquid master water test kit will tell you if you need to do a W/C. Again - if ammonia is above .25, a change is required. same with nitrates above .50. Do not touch your filter media during this process. taking it out and cleaning it could destroy the Beneficial Bacteria you are working so hard to grow. After the tank is cycled, you can clean the media (and then, only rinse it in water that you have removed from the tank - never tap water or the chlorine will kill your bacteria and you'll be back to square one.) And you do not have to buy new filter cartridges monthly as the mfg suggests. most here simply rinse and use the same ones over and over until they are literally falling apart. Avoid vacuuming the bottom of the tank as well during this time as there will be small amounts of BB growing in the substrate. IF you must vac, just lightly skim the surface to clean the debris on top. Again, AFTer the tank is cycled you can deep clean the gravel.
As has been said - forget about the bacterial boosters. You might want to get some Seachams stability to help defuse the toxic effects of the ammonia. I don't know what water conditioner you are using but Seachams prime is an excellent product and will also help minimize any toxic effects of ammonia.
If you keep up this regiment, you should have your tank cycled within 3 - 4 weeks although sometimes it takes a little longer.
also try not to over feed - if you're feeding twice a day, cut to 1 time a day to help keep the waste at a minimum.
Hope this all helps. Good luck

[tindere]

Everyone has given you good advice about stocking and cycling but here are a few more tips on getting your tank cycled.
First, you're doing a good job with your water changes. Until you get this tank cycled, though, you may have to continue to do 50 - 75% W/C daily to keep your ammonia around .25 (you need some ammonia to get the bacteria growing) and your nitrites below .50. Nitrates should not exceed 20ppm.
Always test before you do your water change, not after for a true reading. your API liquid master water test kit will tell you if you need to do a W/C. Again - if ammonia is above .25, a change is required. same with nitrates above .50. Do not touch your filter media during this process. taking it out and cleaning it could destroy the Beneficial Bacteria you are working so hard to grow. After the tank is cycled, you can clean the media (and then, only rinse it in water that you have removed from the tank - never tap water or the chlorine will kill your bacteria and you'll be back to square one.) And you do not have to buy new filter cartridges monthly as the mfg suggests. most here simply rinse and use the same ones over and over until they are literally falling apart. Avoid vacuuming the bottom of the tank as well during this time as there will be small amounts of BB growing in the substrate. IF you must vac, just lightly skim the surface to clean the debris on top. Again, AFTer the tank is cycled you can deep clean the gravel.
As has been said - forget about the bacterial boosters. You might want to get some Seachams stability to help defuse the toxic effects of the ammonia. I don't know what water conditioner you are using but Seachams prime is an excellent product and will also help minimize any toxic effects of ammonia.
If you keep up this regiment, you should have your tank cycled within 3 - 4 weeks although sometimes it takes a little longer.
also try not to over feed - if you're feeding twice a day, cut to 1 time a day to help keep the waste at a minimum.
Hope this all helps. Good luck

Thank you all for your posts, and I am keeping a very rigid feeding and WC schedule. I actually do have an API water test kit, the filter I have (that I do not touch) is the Aqueon that came with the tank along with a heater. I use Aqeon water conditioner, but I will look for the aforementioned products they you suggested when I go over to the Fish store a few towns over. I have been going to a petco in my area, but they have a flimsy selection and they have been leading me in the wrong direction it seems. There is a very nice specialty fish store about an hour away, but it has to wait until Monday. I work 12-16 hours a day so I simply cannot go on a work day :(

[Tiari]

I highly suggest getting a water conditioner called Seachem Prime. Many of us on this forum use it, and it removes chlorine and chloramine, as well as detoxify ammonia and nitrites. It won't do the job for you, but will help take the stress off your fish. The main problem is likely too many fish in too small a space, so getting them to better housing is important. It is just my singular opinion, but I feel the livestock would be better off being moved immediately to their new home as soon as you get it. Transfer the partially cycled filter just as it is along with the new filter on the new tank to help kick-start the cycling process. They would be better off cycling in the larger tank, than continuing to cycle in the small one while you fishless cycle the large tank.

[tindere]

So just a little update

The 55 is now set up, i purchased a nice filter, good substrate, natural (sanitized) river rock gravel(nice, smooth edges too!) and all the other good stuff. In a few days I will transfer the first few fish over to see how they do, but the sub I placed in was already cycled and the filter cartridges where as well, so I should be able to go very soon. In another two weeks I wanted to place a few more fish in there to keep my current fish happy, so I was thinking 3 hi-fin tetras, 2 more swordtails, and a few more guppies. I will also still have my spotted catfish and rainbow-fin shark.I know I have more space then that, but I am hesitant. Should I get a few more of each of these, or should I worry about getting some bottom feeders to keep things clean and tidy? Ideas?