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 Originally Posted by 250Gimp
I ordered up the ultralife algae remover, and then I think I will add an air pump and bubler to stir things up a bit.
I'll let you know how it goes once I receive it.
Cheers
Then you don't have BGA after all, I guess, since algae cleaner is useless against BGA as has been pointed out.
Knowledge is fun(damental)
A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is down to just two Sterba's Corys. Filters: continuous new water flow; canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber!! Finally, junked the nitrate removal unit from hell.
For Fishless cycling:http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
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Cermet, he got the Ultralife Blue Green Algae Remover, which is specifically for removing cyanobacteria.
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I think when Cermet read that you were trying ultralife algae remover, he thought you were trying a typical algae removing product. I know that what I had orginally thought based only on the product discription. Products that are only ment to remove algae will not do much on BG algae
If its meant to remove blue/green algae (aka.. cyano) then it would most be a anti bacteria product and should work nicely.
As it is a med, I would recommend a airstone as well. It certainly won't hurt anything
If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
"Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]
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 Originally Posted by Zander
The high phosphates are caused by rotting food sitting in your tank somewhere.
No really. High phosphates can also come directly from your tap water. Anything over .50 can trigger algae growth. It comes from my tap at 2.0 and why I use phosphate sponges to reduce it.
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 Originally Posted by Lady Hobbs
It comes from my tap at 2.0 and why I use phosphate sponges to reduce it.
Lady Hobbs, you should consider in tank algae scrubbers. They can remove the phosphates (as well as nitrates) and really save you money on phosphate sponges. My unit reduced my phosphates from 2 - 3 ppm to under 0.2 ppm. Cleaning the units are more work than throwing away a sponge, but the fish will do better still because algae also processes many types of organics that fish produce, as well. Just a thought ...
Knowledge is fun(damental)
A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is down to just two Sterba's Corys. Filters: continuous new water flow; canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber!! Finally, junked the nitrate removal unit from hell.
For Fishless cycling:http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
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 Originally Posted by Lady Hobbs
No really. High phosphates can also come directly from your tap water. Anything over .50 can trigger algae growth. It comes from my tap at 2.0 and why I use phosphate sponges to reduce it.
I never actually measured the phosphates in my tank a single time, but I have been told repeatedly that can be one of many causes of it.
In my experience I was able to remove the BGA by cleaning my tank slightly differently, as described in my first post. So the rotting food was what was causing it, that was my point. Whether or not the food caused high phosphates I suppose I am not entirely sure.
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Phosphates do come in food and over- feeding will increase it. Mostly flake foods. You are very correct there. But you made it sound as rotting food is the only reason for high phosphate when your water source is a direct cause.
Cermet.......I have lots of plants that use the phosphates, feed sparingly and use the sponge. No problem and no algae so all is well.
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