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Results 1 to 10 of 23
  1. Question First Sump - Need Help


    0 Not allowed!
    I have started to build my first sump. See attached image of the plans.

    Main tank is 65 gallons with a drilled overflow and return. Sump is a 20 gallon long.

    So far, I have only siliconed the baffles into the sump. But, I have all the other plumbing and stuff ready to go.

    Questions:

    1) Is putting a ball valve on the tube overflowing into the sump smart/necessary? I want to add it in case I want to stop the flow in an emergency.

    2) Is the check valve on the return tube smart/necessary? I want to make sure that water can only flow one direction on that line, obviously.


    I will have more questions (and photographs) later - but for now, let's start with those.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If you leave enough room in the sump for all of the drain back you will get when the return pump is off, you do not need any valves at all. That is the best approach as all check valves can fail over time. Ball-check valve might be a better option, but it is not required in all cases

    The below links should help

    http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.co...e-sump-basics/

    http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.co...umbing-basics/
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks for the tips, Cliff. I actually stumbled across your plumbing write-up while doing some googling and found it very informative. I will have to spend some time with the other article you wrote, but at first glance it looks AWESOME .

    I planned the baffles in my sump so that the water level will be a good 3 inches below the rim of the tank, but it is only a guesstimate as to the maximum operating water level of the sump, which is why I felt the need to have the extra insurance of the valves in case of something going wrong. They can't hurt anything right? Would the check valve on the return line significantly decrease the flow rate? It isn't very big.

    My new question is in regards to my water pump, a Rio 2500.

    The water pump I have came with an attachment/accessory ball valve (see attached picture, front middle accessory). I want to use it so that I can regulate the flow of the pump. It will work nicely because it fits the flexible tubing I bought for the return line perfectly. How would you recommend connecting the pump, the ball valve, and the tube? I have some extra silicone, but that seems too permanent. Zip ties? Can I use the common metal clamps used on flexible plastic tubing safely - or is there a risk of rusting under the water?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I hate using ball valve on pumps that restrict the flow from the pump. The extra pressure on the pump will wear out the pump faster than normal use. Instead, use a bypass line.

    That involves having two return lines coming off of the pump which are both the same size as the manufacture recommends for a single line. One of the lines goes back into your main tank without a valve. The second line (bypass line) has a ball valve on it and goes back into the return pump compartment of the sump. By using the ball valve on this bypass line you can take away some of the flow going back into your main tank without putting any extra pressure on your return pump.

    The problem with using check valves is that you are trusting a spring inside the valve to work when you need it. As this spring is always coiled back into it's compressed position, you are at a high risk of it failing to work correctly when you need it. I will always try to talk you out of using one. If it where my set-up, and my sump could not hold the drain back water, I would use a ball check valve. Almost no risk if failure if you install them in a up-right position. They can reduce your flow by 50 to 100 gph tho.

    Without knowing more about your tubing that you got, I can not offer much in the way of helpful advice. Could you post a pic of what you have so can see exactly what it is that you are talking about ???
    Last edited by Cliff; 01-10-2013 at 01:30 PM.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    6,732

    Awards Showcase

    After all that virtual alcohol it's time to sober up with some virtual food - mommy1 I can't drink alone mate - ScottishFish I won't thank you because it's a thankless job 7 also I cannot find any CUC type gifts but thanks [ - 850R Cheers bud - Cliff Time for a Pint? I cannae drink alone - ScottishFish 
    Implied message here. - mommy1 Congrats MOTM !!! - Cliff Cheers! - escamosa I dunno why I'm giving you a skunkloach as your prize,. They just sound cool! :) - escamosa Merry Christmas - KingFisher 
    Merry Christmas - Cliff Merry Christmas!! - ScottishFish Happy X-mas! :-) - MCHRKiller Thanks for the birthday wishes - mommy1 A cup of coffee to get you going on that build. - Strider199 
    Merry xmas! - ScottishFish Merry Christmas - mommy1 Happy New Year - mommy1 Thank you for the birthday wishes. - mommy1 Happy Birthday. - gadget228 

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Cliff nailed it. I wouldn't want any restriction on my pump.
    Thar she blows!!!

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Got it. Thanks for the tips on valves, guys.

    Attached is a picture of what the tubing I got looks like.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Ah, re-enforced polyethylene pipe / hose. I always prefer to use flexible PVC or Sch40 PVC pipe, but a lot of people like using that pipe in lower flow set-ups. I would suggest using the below plastic hose clamps for that, provided do you not have a lot of pressure going through those lines (ie... less than 900 to 800 gph). You can use PVC threaded hose barbs to contech the hose to various other things (like unions) should you need to.



    You can get them from on-line companies like the below:

    http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...fm?pcatid=9227

    For spots on the line the will not be under water, I would suggest using the standard metal hose clamps.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    This rapid feedback is awesome!

    Okay next question:

    In the hypothetical situation that the overflow becomes clogged or somehow stops overflowing and the pump is still running, how can I protect against the main tank overflowing? Everything I read is about how to keep your sump from overflowing, but I can't seem to find an answer to this hypothetical. Sorry if it's a dumb question.

    Do you not have to worry about it because only the volume of the last compartment of the sump will be pumped up? Kind of thinking out loud on my keyboard right now.

    Secondary question:

    The aquarium I bought provided 2 rubber gaskets per bulkhead. I am assuming that the extra gasket is to be saved and used for replacement purposes? Also, just double-checking - the gasket goes on the inside of the tank, right?

  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by raulfd4
    In the hypothetical situation that the overflow becomes clogged or somehow stops overflowing and the pump is still running, how can I protect against the main tank overflowing? Everything I read is about how to keep your sump from overflowing, but I can't seem to find an answer to this hypothetical. Sorry if it's a dumb question.

    Do you not have to worry about it because only the volume of the last compartment of the sump will be pumped up? Kind of thinking out loud on my keyboard right now.
    Your tank would not overflow by much, but the return compartment would be emptied and your return pump would burn out. Best way to reduce this risk is to have your tank drilled and use a duriso stand pipe, or use two siphon based return drain lines, each being able to handle the flow of the entire tank.
    One of the best things to do would be to have your drain line(s) in a overflow compartment in your tank. That way, you can have a screen between the tank and the overflow compartment were the intake to your drain line is. That should prevent anything that could plug the line from getting into the compartment. Quick and easy to spot this as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by raulfd4
    The aquarium I bought provided 2 rubber gaskets per bulkhead. I am assuming that the extra gasket is to be saved and used for replacement purposes? Also, just double-checking - the gasket goes on the inside of the tank, right?
    Some bulk head manufactures will provide you with two gaskets. I would suggest using both, one on each side of the glass. That will make it a lot easier to have a leak proof flange.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    How would you connect these parts?

    I have a Marineland Corner-Flo aquarium with an internal pre-drilled gravity overflow.

    See attached image. Do I put PVC "glue" cement on the bulkheads? I plan on putting stainless steel clamps on the end of each hose on the underside connections.

    The PVC connections to the bulkheads are not threaded.

    Is there anything else I should be worried about?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by raulfd4; 01-13-2013 at 05:12 AM.

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