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Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: TDS, how high?

  1. Default TDS, how high?


    0 Not allowed!
    So, I have a buckeye RO/DI setup HERE

    I changed out all the filters before I stared adding water to my in wall build. The meter read zero. I have made 275g with it and started to fill my big tank. Right now the tank reads ~300 TDS!

    Tap water here is 450-500 TDS.

    Can it be possible that the filters only last a few hundred gallons?

    Can I use the water with 300 TDS?
    300g + 240g in wall build! - Follow Here
    120g SW Reef, LED lights, cool fish and corals!

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Dose this unit have the carbon as the last stage ? If it dose (common on units sold for household use) and it's a new carbon cartridge, the TDS reading might be from some of the fine carbon particles

    Have you tried testing the water as it comes out of the unit ?

    Have you tried backflushing the system to get some of the TDS particles out of the membrane ?

    I personally would not use water with 300 TDS. Could your TDS meter be giving you wrong readings ?
    Last edited by Cliff; 01-09-2013 at 12:47 AM.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. #3

    Join Date
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    Why thank-you - Cliff The grammar crab has you in its grasp! D: - Trillianne Thanks for the clarification - Mith A few clown for the fellow SW clowns. :D - ILuvMyGoldBarb sorry about your angelfish - smaug 
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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If your water is pretty dirty I guess it could get need changing already. 275 gals is a lot.
    \if you don't backflush every 50gals or so it would get dirty faster.

    I wouldn't use it either, except as my first fill/cycling tank...2-4 tds is a sign that the filter needs maintenance...tho people do use water with higher tds than that. I did use straight tap water for my very first fill.

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    As Cliff asked, what is the TDS of the RO/DI water as it exits the unit?

    If possible, are you also able to measure the RO water as well? (the water exiting the RO membrane prior to it entering the DI stage).

    The TDS of the tap water in my area is currently about half that of your's (low to high 200s), but I've made hundreds of gallons of water since I last changed my membrane and filter stages and the TDS of the RO water is 1ppm (RO/DI output is 0ppm).

    I think in a high TDS environment the DI resin may become depleted fairly quick (some hundreds of gallons) but the RO membrane should last quite a while. I've gone years between RO membrane change outs. How long has the RO membrane been used?

    To cover all bases, could the the tank that is being filled have any TDS source (is it a used tank or brand new tank?), and is it completely empty (or does it contain any substrate or rocks?).
    Last edited by kaybee; 01-09-2013 at 03:55 AM.
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

    http://www.rowelab.com/AquaControlle...9&scope=last24

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff
    Dose this unit have the carbon as the last stage ?

    Have you tried testing the water as it comes out of the unit ?

    Have you tried backflushing the system to get some of the TDS particles out of the membrane ?

    I personally would not use water with 300 TDS. Could your TDS meter be giving you wrong readings ?
    I think the DI resin is the last stage.
    I did not test the water right out of the unit but it was 200 something the day before.
    I don't know how to or if I can backflush the unit

    Meter read zero when I changed the filters last week.
    300g + 240g in wall build! - Follow Here
    120g SW Reef, LED lights, cool fish and corals!

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by kaybee
    As Cliff asked, what is the TDS of the RO/DI water as it exits the unit?

    If possible, are you also able to measure the RO water as well? (the water exiting the RO membrane prior to it entering the DI stage).

    The TDS of the tap water in my area is currently about half that of your's (low to high 200s), but I've made hundreds of gallons of water since I last changed my membrane and filter stages and the TDS of the RO water is 1ppm (RO/DI output is 0ppm).

    I think in a high TDS environment the DI resin may become depleted fairly quick (some hundreds of gallons) but the RO membrane should last quite a while. I've gone years between RO membrane change outs. How long has the RO membrane been used?

    To cover all bases, could the the tank that is being filled have any TDS source (is it a used tank or brand new tank?), and is it completely empty (or does it contain any substrate or rocks?).
    I may be able to measure the R/O. I will have to check tonight

    The membrane was replaced few months back. The filter was only being used for top off on the tanks during that time.

    It is possible that some salt mix is still in the tank along with some sand causing higher TDS. The tank has nothing else in it.
    300g + 240g in wall build! - Follow Here
    120g SW Reef, LED lights, cool fish and corals!

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I bought new RO membrane, DI media, Carbon filter, 1 micron filter and an extra chamber for an extra carbon.

    I have very high chlorine.. somethings enought to smell like you went swimming in a pool after a shower. Was told that once the carbon is used up by the chlorine it can burn up the rest of the chambers which caused my really high TDS. I shall experiment more with this...

    Is there a gallon meter I can buy to monitor the amount of water I run through the RO/DI setup?
    300g + 240g in wall build! - Follow Here
    120g SW Reef, LED lights, cool fish and corals!

  8. #8

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    WOW, that does sound like a lot of chlorine. That would make sense as your source for the TDS in the tank and even more so if you also have chlorimines (spelling ?) in your water. If you had added water to the tank that was 0 TDS, I could very well believe that any grime or salt residue would certainly raise the TDS count up, but not that much.

    If you can find it, try adding catalytic activated carbon when you need to replace your current ones. This stuff is said to be a lot better than regular activated carbon and I have noticed that my membrane and DI did last a little longer once I switched to it.

    I have not sean any gauges like you have mentioned for a RO unit before, but I'm sure there must be one out there.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Chloramine

    Think using higher TDS wate could account for my random PH test's? I have a salifert and two hagen test kits. Both hagen test kits read 8.6-8.7ph while my salifert says 8.1? This is on the tank already running with the eel.

    However, on the newly filled tank the 3 test kits read the same.. around 7 something.
    300g + 240g in wall build! - Follow Here
    120g SW Reef, LED lights, cool fish and corals!

  10. #10

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by glarior
    Is there a gallon meter I can buy to monitor the amount of water I run through the RO/DI setup?
    I use one of these:
    http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/fm-2-f...m-digital.html
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

    http://www.rowelab.com/AquaControlle...9&scope=last24

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