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Thread: Filter Maintenance
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01-11-2013, 08:40 PM #21
Again, why have the charcoal rather than the fiber fill? Leaving the carbon you are adding a restriction to water flow for zer benifit; rather, move the floss from between the filter elements and put it in place of the worthless carbon (really activated charcoal.)
Otherwise, what you did is what that type of cartridge requires; however, rinising out both pads you lose a great deal of all the bacteria.Knowledge is fun(damental)
A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is fifteen Sterba's Corys. Filters: canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber that removes phosphates and nitrates! Also, a highly dangerous commercial nitrate removal unit from hell
For Stocking Questions see: http://aqadvisor.com/AqAdvisor.php?
For Fishless cycling:http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
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01-14-2013, 05:03 PM #22
Hope it works well for you and doesn't bother the water flow, let me know.
when I had my aqueon I had the idea of making a board of ceramic bead (fluvial ceramic rings) using fishing line and netting skills that would fit in front of the bio-holster still being easily removable during cleanings. Just for an idea.
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01-14-2013, 05:49 PM #23
The water flow is still good despite all the stuff I jammed in there. It's not going to the overflow at all. It seems to be working great actually. A couple of days after I did it, my nitrates went from 10-20 to 5 and my water is noticeably clearer. It was very clear to begin with, but a friend came by that hadn't seen it in about a week and the first thing she said was how much clearer the water looked. (I didn't even mention what I did to the filter) The fish are super active, so I guess all is good!
Originally Posted by Delphe
I think the key was the added filter fiber I put in. It effectively doubled or tripled the filtering surface area of each filter pad. Sure there is some worthless carbon in there, but once the water gets around the carbon and through that filter pad, it has another half inch or so of polyester to go through, twice. Plus, the added bio media can do nothing but help the BB levels. BTW - I got the idea from an old forum post on this site.

55g planted tank -
Paradise Fish, Red Eye Tetras
Balloon Blue Ram, Cherry Barbs, Gold Barbs
Zebra Danios, Gold Zebra Danios
Peppered Cory Cats, Pictus Cats
Octo Cat, Siamese Algae Eaters, Mystery Snails
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01-14-2013, 07:00 PM #24
"I got the idea from an old forum post on this site".
There is alot of good info in old posts if you take the time to research it.Perfection is not attainable, but if we chase perfection we can catch excellence.
Once you learn to quit, it becomes a habit. -Vince Lombardi
“Be more concerned with your character than your reputation, because your character is what you really are, while your reputation is merely what others think you are.” ― John Wooden
SHE......Lest We Forget
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01-16-2013, 07:04 AM #25
In regards to a canister filter...
When you say bio-media should go last, is that at the top or bottom? My canisters are set up this way from top to bottom. Fine floss, course sponge and then bio-media (rings) on the bottom.
Im never sure where the water enters the canister from the tank, top or bottom?Fiiiiiiiiiiissssshhhhhh!
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01-16-2013, 09:58 AM #26
The two different brand canisters I own require the fine media on the bottom - the intake water starts at the bottom and flows up through the baskets.
Originally Posted by CrazedMichael
If your basket's have a special 'tube' that has a seal to the top, then it too will require fine media on the bottom and bio-media higher up.Knowledge is fun(damental)
A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is fifteen Sterba's Corys. Filters: canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber that removes phosphates and nitrates! Also, a highly dangerous commercial nitrate removal unit from hell
For Stocking Questions see: http://aqadvisor.com/AqAdvisor.php?
For Fishless cycling:http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
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01-16-2013, 11:37 AM #27
Let me just try and see if im understanding you correctly. I have 2 Dolphin canisters. When i open it you can see a 'tube' going through all 3 baskets. When you remove each basket it breaks up said tube.
So what you are saying is, once water enters the canister from the tank, it first goes down that 'tube' to the bottom. Flows up through the baskets and then gets sucked back to the tank from the top?Fiiiiiiiiiiissssshhhhhh!
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01-17-2013, 03:34 PM #28
The tube should be on the inlet side so look at your pipes, water goes to bottom so thats where you need mechanical filtration (sponge) and out the top through your bio filtration (bio-max, ceramics etc) and back to your tank.
1) 140 gallon with 70 gallon sump. 30 neons , 8 white cloud mountain minnows,, 10 Schwarzi cory, 10 julii cory 12 harlequin rasbora, 10 Hengals Rasbora,2 Bulldog Plecs, 2 Bristle nosed plec's and loads of assasin snails. internal 1000 filter + external Fluval 406, fluval U2 to transfer to my QT when needed
2) 70gallon, and 15 penguin and 12 red eye tetra with an Enheim pro filter.
3) 20 gallon QT
4) algae rock tank, with about 10 bulldog fry

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01-17-2013, 04:00 PM #29
+ 1 scotch
That can be brand specific, I know that EHEIMs ALL flow bottom to top. Your owners manual should detail this for you [If missing you can usually find a PDF online of it]
Originally Posted by CrazedMichael
Doesn't this mean that you have the fine media first in the flow stream where you would preferably have your course mech filtration? What brands/models?
Originally Posted by Cermet
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