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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Kingman AZ

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    Default Do i need an over growth to have a algea scrubber?

    0 Not allowed!
    I just made my upflow FW AS using my air pump and its in my main tank not sump, an i want one, but i dont have algea probs....i have the usual, looks likes hair moss, kind of wavy brown/green stuff?on the glass but i wipe that off once a month. Will this AS eliminate that? when do I need a AS? I love the biology of it. and at the rate that I am at how long would it take till I see affect?
    150 gal. (1 black fin Pacu) Modified API Nexx modular filterX3+ a 1 litter bottle Moving Bed filter w/straws + DIY UFAS+ modified PowerHead to an aerated bacteria filter.
    90 gal. (2 black fin Pacu) (1 red fin Pacu)Modified API modular nexx filterX3 + modified PwerHead to a biological aerated filter + 500gph aerated powerhead.
    26 gal. Planted (6mollies) (12platty wags) (1 Bristol nose placo) (4cory cats) (1clown loach) (betta)
    20gal sump project for the 150 or 90

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Saskatchewan, Canada

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    Latest gifts & ribbons:

    Happy Holidays! - Boundava   Season's Greetings! - Rue   Merry Christmas! - Slaphppy7   Merry Christmas! - Anders247   Happy Holidays! - Boundava   


    0 Not allowed!
    Algae scrubbers can be effective at removing nitrates and phosphates from the water. I knowing those levels would help answere that question. As you do not have a lot of algae already, I'm not too sure if a scrubber would be your most cost effective option at this point unless you have higher levels of nitrate and/or phosphates. Your still going to have to do weekly water changes and most minor algae problems can be corrected through minor adjustments and increases to your weekly water changes.

    In addition, the effectiveness of your scrubber would also depend on: the amount of flow being produced, brightness and intensity of your lighting used, and the size and type of the screen used. A well disigned and effective scrubber can out compete other forms of algae for the need food in the water which will iliminate the other algae. But once again, that will only happen with a well disinged scrubber.

    More details about your scrubber and water parameters would help
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL=""]

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Glen Arm. MD

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    Latest gifts & ribbons:

    Happy Christmas - MuckyFish   thanks for advising on vegetables for my kribs! so here is a discus - ScottishFish   You help a lot - PhillipOrigami   For the bank account, and thx for the rep - Cliff   beautiful discus! - Crispy   


    0 Not allowed!
    Algae scrubbers come in two rather different forms: there is a smaller in tank, and air driven unit and a larger external unit that requires a slump. These two types of scrubbers operate very differently. An in tank unit uses an air pump to circulate water into/out of the unit across the growth screen. A slump system runs water down the screen to be pumped back into the tank. Both use light (on a timer) to provide algae growth.

    If you don't have issues with large water changes and/or have no algae issues that require major cleaning, a scrubber is not really needed; however, having one is very good for keeping the water extra clean for the fish and in the event of an accidental bio-filter crash, scrubbers will destroy ammonia/nitrites very effectively until the filter rebounds.

    The only upkeep issue is the weekly cleaning of the growth screen so new algae can regrow in its place. As Cliff pointed out in another thread, this is how the nitrates/phosphates are removed from the tank. Also, growing algae consumes a lot of these products, while stable algae consumes far less.

    While scrubbers will eliminate phosphates and drive nitrates to near zero (this will be a serious issue for planted tanks - these tanks will need to dose nitrates sup's to feed the plants!) they also will process other organics that tank bacteria will only partly attack or take a very long time to break down like hormones, fish slime and even low level antibiotics which are in all runoff based water systems now-a-days (but these units should have very little effect on standard dose treatments.)

    These units are outstanding in dealing with algae growth issues and really will maintain a super clean tank. Even a small in tank unit will lower nitrates in a heaily stocked tank but these units do not remove the critical need to replace water in the tank. They can reduce the amount/number of W/C but careful testing is required to be certain that is safe and healthy for the fish.

    These units are an exciting new product that really does everything that a hobbyist needs for a super clean tank. They are rather low tech, and very inexpensive (easy to build - wouldn't say that about most other filters) , utterly simple to maintain, have no long term upkeep costs except power to run, and can't easily crash (even if the algae is killed off, they rapidly grow back in a few days. Can't say that about standard bacteria in a bio-filter!)
    Last edited by Cermet; 01-05-2013 at 12:10 PM.
    Knowledge is fun(damental)

    A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is down to just two Sterba's Corys. Filters: continuous new water flow; canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber!! Finally, junked the nitrate removal unit from hell.

    For Fishless cycling:

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