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Thread: Cleaning Slimy Pipes
11-17-2012, 12:32 PM #1
Cleaning Slimy Pipes
Hi all, I'm soon due to clean all the pipework on my Eheim Professional 3 after they have become noticeably lined with brown slime/sludge. Ideally you can offer suggestions on how to do this effectively and quickly. I've ordered some bottle brushes but know that they'll not be long enough to clean the middle sections of the pipe. Obviously I would like to be able to do all of this and get it back together within an hour or so so my fish stay filtered.
A lazy way of doing this would be to buy new pipes to replace the dirty ones - they I always have a clean spare - rotating them every few months (soaking the dirty ones in vinegar and hot water for a few days before blasting out the muck with the tap head).
Also, any tips for taking pipework and valves apart easily and safely (without damaging the tubing). I'm a bit nervous about doing this too often in case it loosens the seals.
11-17-2012, 01:44 PM #2
Tie One end of the bottle brush( providing the entire brush including handle fits into the tube) to a long string with a weight on the other end, Let the weight slip through the tube and come out the other end and then pull the bottle brush right through the tube?
11-17-2012, 01:45 PM #3
0Originally Posted by madagascariensis
11-17-2012, 01:53 PM #4
Vinegar and hot water works like you said. I have another method which some people probably don't like for hoses like the ones used in a python. Take a bin or bucket, add water and a bit of bleach, dump the hose completely into it, hook up a powerhead or a pump to one end of the hose and let it run for a while, that will help circulate the water and eventually it'll be clean. Then dump then water, refill with water and dechlor and let it run, then let it sit out on the balcony till bleach smell is gone. You could always use vinegar instead of the bleach, but I'm not patient enough for vinegar to work sometimes.
11-17-2012, 01:57 PM #5
Submerge them in a 5 gallon bucket with a 1/4 cup of hydrogen peroxide. Works best if they can be left for a few hours or over night but gets all of the hard to reach spots.
11-17-2012, 05:20 PM #6
Thanks for all the suggestions. Really helpful. I will now start planning which I will use for my big clean.
11-17-2012, 05:32 PM #7Member Swordtails
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
I have this brush for filter pieces that is attached to a 6-foot long wire so that it can be stuck into long piping. It used to be an accessory you could get in the 90s for Fluval filters. Not sure if they still exist, but they worked like a charm for these things.
11-17-2012, 09:00 PM #8
They sell those as cleaning brushes for boilers but I'm not certain that they would be non toxic. Possibly the brushes they use to clean restaurant devices such as shake machines and such.
11-17-2012, 10:44 PM #9
I've inserted the end of my filter brush into the chuck of my drill and let er' rip.(on low gear/ speed that is.) It works great for cleaning the sections of pipes and tubing.><((((º> ><((((º> ><((((º> ><((((º>
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