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Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1

    Default API Master Test Kits

    0 Not allowed!
    Query, have any of you had any problems with these test kits? Following the instructions to the letter, I constantly show 5+ ppm of nitrites, even after a 50 % water-change. I'm beginning to wonder about this.

  2. #2


    0 Not allowed!
    Have you tested your tap water?

  3. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Yeah, test your tap water. I always recommend that so you know what you are dealing with before the water goes into the tank.

  4. #4


    0 Not allowed!
    Ph-7.5, Amm-0 ppm, Nitrites-0 ppm, Nitrates-.5 ppm. My tap water.
    Last edited by Dave Waits; 11-16-2012 at 11:50 PM.

  5. #5


    0 Not allowed!
    Well that should show that your test kit works if you get a different reading from the tap. Do another 50% water change and immediately test again?

  6. #6


    0 Not allowed!
    A 50% water change will not make a big change if you really have 8 ppm nitrites and they now drop to 4 ppm - both could, on a kit, read about 5 ppm since the eye is not great at comparing colors since light type and intensity matters.

    Do a real water change - 90%+ because nitrites should be well under 0.5 ppm or lower. That is a better test. I hope this isn't an aquarium with fish ... .
    Knowledge is fun(damental)

    A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is down to just two Sterba's Corys. Filters: continuous new water flow; canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber!! Finally, junked the nitrate removal unit from hell.

    For Fishless cycling:

  7. #7


    0 Not allowed!
    +1 to Cermet. if you have to do multiple water changes to equal that 90 percent do so. I've had to do two fifty percent water changes at one time to get some of my NitrItes down. they were 3.0 at one point.

    20 gal tall - Helios - HM Betta Male, 1 rasbora het, 2 rummy tetras, 1 glowlight tetra, 1 additional tetra, 1 zebra nerite, 10-15 cherry shrimp, Java Moss and crypto planted tank w/ Driftwood and Spider Wood


  8. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    You aren't testing immediately after the w/c are you?
    Anyway, do the math. If your nitrites are 20ppm to start, and you do 1 50% water change, that lowers it to 10ppm. Once more lowers it to 5ppm, once more to 2.5ppm etc.
    You may need to do multiple w/c's.

  9. #9


    0 Not allowed!
    I wait an hour after the water change to test, so far I've changed 150% of the water in three days. Still deep purple. Color tint never changes. Based on the theory that a 50% change drops the reading in half, I should have seen at least a small difference, I haven't.
    Last edited by Dave Waits; 11-17-2012 at 12:31 AM.

  10. #10


    0 Not allowed!
    As an experiment, take a store bought water bottle and test the water in it. If it gives a weird result there is a good chance your test kit may be messed up or expired.

    Here is how to check the bottle to see if it is expired.

    Each reagent bottle has a Lot # printed
    on the bottle. The last four digits are the month and year of
    manufacture. Example: Lot # 28A0102. This is a pH reagent manufactured
    in January of 2002. Pond Care Wide Range pH, ammonia, High Range pH,
    Nitrate, phosphate, Copper, calcium and GH all last for three years.
    nitrite and KH will last for four years. Freshwater pH(low range) and
    Pond Care Salt Level will last for five years. I would not trust these
    kits after they have expired.

    Info was found on

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