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Results 1 to 10 of 31
  1. Default disconnect co2 at night?


    0 Not allowed!
    I purchased a co2 system today (JBL ProFlora Bio 80) and was wondering as I dont have an airpump to oxygenate the water should I disconnect the co2 at night?


    29 Gallon: Veiltail Betta, White Cloud Minnows, Neon Tetras, Honey Gourami, Rummy Nose Tetra, Bolivian Ram, African Dwarf Frogs, Amano Shrimp

    6.4 Gallon: Halfmoon Betta

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Yes. Only have the CO2 operational during the lit hours. Ideally you'd have it on a timer.
    "Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known." Carl Sagan
    ~ My 350 Litre Tank Journal ~
    ~ My 30 Litre Tank Journal ~

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by ~firefly~ View Post
    Yes. Only have the CO2 operational during the lit hours. Ideally you'd have it on a timer.
    Ok thats fine thanks. I have no timer, I will just disconnect the pipe from the main container as there is a safe return valve on the pipe.

    EDIT: Actually ive just had a thought. If I pull the pipe our surely all the pressurized co2 will escape from the container, meaning it would need another 24/48 hours to build back up?
    Last edited by serbusfish; 02-03-2013 at 09:37 PM.


    29 Gallon: Veiltail Betta, White Cloud Minnows, Neon Tetras, Honey Gourami, Rummy Nose Tetra, Bolivian Ram, African Dwarf Frogs, Amano Shrimp

    6.4 Gallon: Halfmoon Betta

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Would it not be better to close the valve?
    "Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known." Carl Sagan
    ~ My 350 Litre Tank Journal ~
    ~ My 30 Litre Tank Journal ~

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by ~firefly~ View Post
    Would it not be better to close the valve?
    That's what I was going to say. But I think you would need to close the needle valve instead of the main valve. I don't know this for sure but I believe closing the main valve will cause excess CO2 dumping into the tank similar to an EOTD (end of tank dump).

    If your regulator doesn't have a solenoid, you may want to consider getting one with a timer to simplify things.

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    My kit only has 1 valve, this is the set up:

    Container (containing salt mix and water) > piping > none return valve > more piping > diffuser.

    Honestly I dont see how I could disconnect at night as the gas would just escape if I pulled the pipe out, and anyway if I did stop dosing at night surely my PH would sky rocket and hurt my fish?


    29 Gallon: Veiltail Betta, White Cloud Minnows, Neon Tetras, Honey Gourami, Rummy Nose Tetra, Bolivian Ram, African Dwarf Frogs, Amano Shrimp

    6.4 Gallon: Halfmoon Betta

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    My apologies. I was assuming you had a CO2 tank but I just looked up the product from your OP and it looks very similar to a DIY CO2 rig. Your best option would likely be to buy an appropriately sized air-pump to gas off the CO2 at night. I would suggest putting that on a timer to turn on at lights-off and back on an hour before lights-on.

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    You mean simply add an air stone/pump to compensate for the added co2?


    29 Gallon: Veiltail Betta, White Cloud Minnows, Neon Tetras, Honey Gourami, Rummy Nose Tetra, Bolivian Ram, African Dwarf Frogs, Amano Shrimp

    6.4 Gallon: Halfmoon Betta

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Correct. The CO2 will continue to be added to the tank, but the airstone will create enough surface agitation to gas off the CO2 so that it doesn't suffocate the fish overnight. You also won't lose any pressure that way, so when the air-pump turns off the CO2 will go back to dissolving in the tank.

  10. #10

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Unless you have some strong lighting, CO2 isn't even needed.

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