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10-12-2010, 04:49 PM #1
Junior Member
Platy
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Posts
- 26
Same water readings for the past 10 days!
Hey guys,
My new tank has been running for about 3 weeks now, but my water readings have been static for the past 10 days. I could certainly use some input to find out why the cycle hasn't been progressing.
This chart shows the water readings, how much Cycle/Prime was added, and PWC amount:
Date - Ammonia - Nitrite - Nitrate - PH - Cycle - Prime - PWC
Oct-02 - 0.25 - 1.00 - 5.00 - n/a - 15ml - n/a - 20%
Oct-03 - 0.25 - 1.00 - 5.00 - n/a - 5ml - 3ml - 25%
Oct-04 - 0.25 - 1.00 - 5.00 - n/a - 15ml - 3ml - n/a
Oct-05 - 0.50 - 1.00 - 5.00 - n/a - 10ml - n/a - n/a
Oct-07 - 0.25 - 1.00 - 5.00 - n/a - n/a - 3ml - n/a
Oct-08 - 0.50 - 1.00 - 5.00 - n/a - 5ml - 3ml - 30%
Oct-10 - 0.25 - 1.00 - 5.00 - n/a - 5ml - n/a - n/a
Oct-11 - n/a - n/a - n/a - n/a - 10ml - 3ml - 60%
Oct-12 - 0.50 - 1.00 - 5.00 - 7.60 - n/a - n/a - n/a
My setup:
- Fluval Chi (5g)
- Non-planted
- 75F (Tetra HT-10 heater)
- API Master test kit
Fauna:
- 5 White Cloud Minnows
- 1 Bushynose Pleco (approx. 1.5" with tail)
- 2 Orange Bee Shrimp
Since introducing the livestock, I have seen no signs of stress. They're all happily swimming/crawling about, and are eating when fed (not over-feeding).
I also contacted Seachem regarding Prime's compatibility with Cycle, and they were firm that Prime will not cause any issues when cycling with Nutrafin's product.
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10-13-2010, 08:01 PM #2
What is your PH reading? This may or may not have anything to do with your issue but I know that my cycle stalled when my PH was too low.
10 Gallon: Planted Red Cherry Shrimp
65 Gallon: Planted South American Community
30 Gallon: Planted Bolivian Ram Tank

Reduce The Stress....Cycle Fishless!
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10-13-2010, 08:39 PM #3
I just realized that you are cycling your tank with fish in it already. My cycle stalled when I did a fishless cycle due to the PH dropping too low and I had to raise it. This may not be your problem and since you have fish in your tank, you probably shouldn't mess with your PH. Although, I'm still curious to know what your PH reading is since you didn't list any readings in the information you posted.
I'm sure someone else will be along soon to help you figure things out.10 Gallon: Planted Red Cherry Shrimp
65 Gallon: Planted South American Community
30 Gallon: Planted Bolivian Ram Tank

Reduce The Stress....Cycle Fishless!
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10-14-2010, 01:10 AM #4
I just got done reading the thread in beginners corner on water testing and what kind of options there are. I was a little upset to find out my $35 API Master Test Kit can go bad in about 3 months in 75 degree temps so I was told you can store it in your fridge to make the regents last longer...
What do you think anyone? With the same read out for almost all of them, could his testing regents be expired already?
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10-14-2010, 10:53 AM #5
Junior Member
Platy
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Posts
- 26
I'm seriously suspecting that too! I'm gonna see if I can get my hands on the strip-style tests today.
Originally Posted by FullMETAL
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10-14-2010, 03:26 PM #6
I'm curious why the very first day you had a reading of .25. Have you tested your water right out of the tap? Actually I am curious as to why every reading was the same on day one as on day 10. You should not have had those readings on day one.
Make sure your tester are shaken up well and make sure the glass vial is rinsed out very well after each test. Just a speck of testing solution can change your results. Also, make sure the glass vials sit for at least 5 minutes after mixing.
My next question would be the filter and gravel? Have you cleaned them at all? Make sure that you do not. You may also be over-feeding the fish which would constantly be producing more ammonia. Feed as little as possible when cycling.
I have never heard even once that the product "Cycle" has worked. I think there are far better bacteria boosters out there that actually give results. But I do think those nitrites will began to drop and will drop perhaps all at once and if you slow down on the feeding, the ammonia will also disappear.
Do not add anymore fish until you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites. Nitrates should be less than 20.Cycling With Fish?•• The Fishless Cycle••
Goldfish Growth Expectancy••
The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. "George Bernard Shaw"
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10-23-2010, 05:30 PM #7
Where did you hear that your master test kit can go bad after 3 months? What reagents go bad?
Originally Posted by FullMETAL
I am in the middle of a cycle too, but my tests have been coming up as I expect them to. My kit is over a year old.
Thanks.75 gallon 5x Oreochromis nilotica, 1 Shubunkin, 2 comets, crawfish [from the local creek]
1 - 30 gallon quarantine tank
1 - 150 gallon Nilotica breeder tank
2 - 100 Nilotica grow out tanks
3 - 75 gallon Nilotica tanks
3 - 10 gallon Nilotica fry nursery tanks
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10-25-2010, 04:38 AM #8
I did some research on the API Freshwater Master Test Kit and also contacted API about this issue. After that, I came across this post from a user several years ago [2007] on a different forum. Below is their post:
Hello all. I have gone back & forth via email with API today, and they've given me some valuable information on the API Freshwater Master Test Kits. The original topic thread on concerns that I had about the test kit
http://www.fishlore.com/Forum/1-gene...itrates.0.html
Basically, I was seeing nitrate test results yesterday that I found unbelievably low - zero - in an established tank.
I was very impressed with the quick responses I got from API, and my faith is restored in their test kits. I'll paste in the information from emails with API. Note - I was finally able to get a nitrate reading of 40 PPM after following their directions:
"Thank you very much for contacting us regarding our products. All of
your comments and questions are valuable. We use your feedback to
create the most effective line of aquarium and pond products available.
Your solutions are not expired. Each reagent bottle has a Lot # printed
on the bottle. The last four digits are the month and year of
manufacture. Example: Lot # 28A0102. This is a pH reagent manufactured
in January of 2002. Pond Care Wide Range pH, ammonia, High Range pH,
Nitrate, phosphate, Copper, calcium and GH all last for three years.
nitrite and KH will last for four years. Freshwater pH(low range) and
Pond Care Salt Level will last for five years. I would not trust these
kits after they have expired.
Liquid Nitrate Test Kits from any manufacturer can have a common problem
with their last test solution. For some companies, it is bottle number
3, but for us it is bottle number 2. One of the ingredients wants to
solidify out of liquid solution. If the test bottle sits for any period
of time, this can happen. If this does happen and the test is performed
without Bottle # 2 mixed properly, then you can get a falsely low
reading. I have never heard of falsely high readings with Nitrate Kits.
I would try tapping your Bottle # 2 a few times on a table or counter
top. This should loosen-up anything that has solidified. Then I would
shake this bottle for about 2-3 minutes, to really mix it up. Try the
test again and hopefully this will fix your problem. With regular weekly
usage, this bottle should only need to be shaken for 30-60 seconds.
Always check results at the recommended duration of time. Letting the
tubes sit longer can result in falsely high levels."
I then asked if heating the nitrate test solution #2 would help get the material back into solution and got this reply:
"I don't think heating is necessary, plus I don't want to degrade the
chemicals in any way. Tapping your Bottle # 2 a few times on a table or
counter top and then shaking should be adequate, but you will
immediately know with the next test."
I then asked if the proper way to match the colors was to place the test tube directly on the card, or back it up a bit, since the color can get a little darker when placed directly on the card. Since the gentleman was being so honest with me, in admitting that there could be a problem with their test solutions (or anyone elses) I thought it would be courteous to ask if I could share this information in the forums I read:
"You do touch the test tube to the color card.
It will be ok for you to share the Nitrtae Test Information. It is a
problem that every manufacturer has and we are interested in the kit
working properly for the consumer. "
As I said, the nitrate test finally gave me an expected reading, and my faith is now restored in the test kits. And I am really impressed with any manufacturer that replies quickly, tells you that there could be a problem with their product, and tells you how to fix it!
Here is the forum link: http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/te...kit-users.html
I apologize if linking to another forum is a major faux pas, but i am merely trying to give credit where it is due.
I checked my test bottles, and they all were manufactured in some month of 2006. I purchased the kit in march 2009. I asked API to see if I could have gotten an older kit or one that was out dated. Regarding the Nitrate test bottle #2, I agree with their statement as I have noticed a white powdery substance around the base of the nipple and on the bottle threads where drops have evaporated and left the solids behind.
So FullMETAL - Check the dates on your bottles. According to API your kit shouldn't be bad after 3 months. Hope this helps!!
STL.
Last edited by SwordTaleLair; 10-25-2010 at 04:41 AM.
75 gallon 5x Oreochromis nilotica, 1 Shubunkin, 2 comets, crawfish [from the local creek]
1 - 30 gallon quarantine tank
1 - 150 gallon Nilotica breeder tank
2 - 100 Nilotica grow out tanks
3 - 75 gallon Nilotica tanks
3 - 10 gallon Nilotica fry nursery tanks
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10-14-2010, 10:52 AM #9
Junior Member
Platy
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Posts
- 26
My pH is at 7.6. Pretty ideal.
Originally Posted by kurly





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Welcome to the New AC. Please be patient while I try to resolve all the bugs this update is sure to bring. In the end it will all be worth it!!
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