Red/Brown Algae problem

[Drumachine09]

In my 10 gallon nano, over the last couple days, i noticed brownish read algae forming on my dead rock. Then on the gravel, and the last two days, on the glass. I checked nitrates and they were 15 or so. I did a 50% water change, and got off as much algea as i could. Is there anything else i can do to get rid of it, and what caused it?

[CaptainKid]

How long has the tank been running? Is it new? Algae blooms in new tanks are normal.

If not new, what are some other tank specs?

[novice]

http://www.botany.uwc.ac.za/algae/

[Drumachine09]

I have had the tank cycled for 3-4 months i think, maybe two, i cant remember. But i have put on 40 watts 2 or so weeks ago.

I have 1 powerhead aimed at the front glass, probobly 8 lbs dead rock, one mushroom, now the size a bit bigger than a quarter, but smaller than a half dollar. I must have been doing something right, because it was the size of a nickel when i got it. i also have a penguin 100 w/biowheel, 10 lbs crushed coral substrate, and a DIY lavarock background. I just did a WC today, so...

[CaptainKid]

I have had the tank cycled for 3-4 months i think, maybe two, i cant remember. But i have put on 40 watts 2 or so weeks ago.

I have 1 powerhead aimed at the front glass, probobly 8 lbs dead rock, one mushroom, now the size a bit bigger than a quarter, but smaller than a half dollar. I must have been doing something right, because it was the size of a nickel when i got it. i also have a penguin 100 w/biowheel, 10 lbs crushed coral substrate, and a DIY lavarock background. I just did a WC today, so...

The added lights can do it for sure. Also, I believe crushed coral can be a nitrate factory which can also contribute. What's yer water chem. look like? Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, PH, etc... Have you noticed algae blooms before you added the lights?

[Chrona]

Brown algae is silicates - new tank. Red algae I don't know. It's a saltwater thing.

[Drumachine09]

The added lights can do it for sure.

Thats what i thought it could be, but i dunno

Also, I believe crushed coral can be a nitrate factory which can also contribute.

I have never heard that before. I am going to be changing the tank around when i install a sump filter, so if that proves true, ill change it to some live aragonite or somthing. I have also heard that Biowheels are nitrate factories, but i dunno

What's yer water chem. look like? Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, PH, etc...

Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10
Ph 8.2-8.3


Have you noticed algae blooms before you added the lights?

I have never had any problems with algea in this tank before, so i think it must be the lights, but i plan on adding 60 more watts of flourecent and an additional 20 or more of actinic when i build my own canopy (btw, i will be posting a diy how to on the canopy)






Do you have any ideas of how to fix this?

[Chrona]

I doubt the amount of lighting is the cause, as plenty of people run far more light. How long are you leaving the lights on for though? Do you have a phosphate test kit?

[CaptainKid]

Well, on my newly set up 75 Gal. I upgraded my lights to 260 watts and within 48 hours.... ALGAE CENTRAL! I added an algae scrub crew I purchased from Vivid Aquariums and started using RO/DI water for my water changes (salt) and top-off (non-salt). Within the past several days, algae is damn near gone! Those little critters never stop eating! :19:

You're gonna wanna use sand as your substrate when you redo the tank. Check out these guys: http://www.vividaquariums.com They have a great site with tons of info and advice. They're on top of their stuff, nice people too.

As far as filtration goes... I would avoid bio-wheels, bio-balls, etc... I use a skimmer, and tons of live rock for mine.

[CaptainKid]

Sorry... I must add. RO/DI water is free of nitrates, phosphates, heavy metals... all the crap that's in tap water. In Saltwater tanks, if you can get RO or RO/DI water... DO IT. Will cut down on Algae and make for a much healthier environment for yer critters.

Also, in well established salt tanks, running a lot of light, algae is less of a problem, however in new tanks the lights do play a big role in the production of brown/green algae.

[xoolooxunny]

a nitrate factory is a good thing. A biological filter will only put out as much nitrates as it can considering the amount of ammonia and nitrites it's being fed. The fact that you have a biowheel doesn't necessarily mean you are going to have more nitrates, it's just further insurance against ammonia/ammonium floating around in your tank. If we didn't have 'nitrate factories' in our tanks, we'd be changing water everyday, and not many people would keep fish.:thumb:

[Drumachine09]

Sometime this month, i will be redoing the tank then. Is there any other way i can cut down on the algae?

[cocoa_pleco]

when my salt tank was the acrylic, i had BAD, and BAD red/green/brown algae. Now, theres only green algae and a little tuff of red on a powerhead. I also have some bubble algae now. I think its just nitrates. just do less lighting and scrape, scrape, scrape

[Drumachine09]

Ummm, Less lighting is not an option. I am barley scraping by with 4 wpg as it is.

[cocoa_pleco]

hmmm, thats out then

[Chrona]

Well, on my newly set up 75 Gal. I upgraded my lights to 260 watts and within 48 hours.... ALGAE CENTRAL! I added an algae scrub crew I purchased from Vivid Aquariums and started using RO/DI water for my water changes (salt) and top-off (non-salt). Within the past several days, algae is damn near gone! Those little critters never stop eating! :19:

You're gonna wanna use sand as your substrate when you redo the tank. Check out these guys: http://www.vividaquariums.com They have a great site with tons of info and advice. They're on top of their stuff, nice people too.

As far as filtration goes... I would avoid bio-wheels, bio-balls, etc... I use a skimmer, and tons of live rock for mine.

There is a huge difference between 40 watts of regular fluorescent lighting over a 10g than 260 watts of compact fluorescent over 75g. In the planted world, that 40 watts would only be considered medium lighting for a 10g, whereas the 260 would be considered very high lighting for a 75g. Again, where the w/g rule fails. The issue is not the lighting, but that you had too many nutrients in the water before, as you found out. The increased lighting merely allowed the algae to flourish, but cutting back on lighting isn't really an option most of the time because the corals need it just as much.

[Chrona]

a nitrate factory is a good thing. A biological filter will only put out as much nitrates as it can considering the amount of ammonia and nitrites it's being fed. The fact that you have a biowheel doesn't necessarily mean you are going to have more nitrates, it's just further insurance against ammonia/ammonium floating around in your tank. If we didn't have 'nitrate factories' in our tanks, we'd be changing water everyday, and not many people would keep fish.:thumb:

Reptileguy corrected me on this one too. Nitrate factories are basically filters that trap too much debris that ends up plugging everything and rotting, ie bioballs that are not cleaned. Biowheels in this case can't be "nitrate factories" because they don't trap debris, ever. I'm sure rep will be by shortly to clarify ;)

[xoolooxunny]

Reptileguy corrected me on this one too. Nitrate factories are basically filters that trap too much debris that ends up plugging everything and rotting, ie bioballs that are not cleaned. Biowheels in this case can't be "nitrate factories" because they don't trap debris, ever. I'm sure rep will be by shortly to clarify ;)

wouldnt you vacuum a crushed shell substrate anyway?

[Chrona]

wouldnt you vacuum a crushed shell substrate anyway?

Yes, you would, which is why I'm not sure on the substrate becoming a nitrate factory thing. I was referring to filters and stuff, where the term is usually heard.

[unleashed]

The brown algae you are talking about lives off silicate. the red stuff you are talking about sounds like cyanobacteria. CLICK HERE (http://www.reefersworld.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=114) for some info in cyano.

[2manyfish]

I should change my name to 'The Cyanobacteria Queen'.....I have had the unfortunate experience of dealing with this stuff in every single saltwater tank that I have ever had. Tanks with no substrate at all (bare bottomed), tanks with a deep sandbed, tanks with a shallow sandbed, tanks with crushed coral. Full blown reef tanks to fish only tanks. And in each one, the trigger was upgrading the lighting to PC's. Every single time this has happened.

The first time I found cyano in my tank, I battled it for months without much of an effect. Once it gets established it can be a real bear. Oh and I tried all the "reduce feedings, reduce photoperiod, more flow, remove by hand, etc, etc, etc. I finally wised up and bought a product called Red Slime Remover. It's an antibacterial that targets cyano. This will not harm your biological filter! Some people have used regular antibacterial meds to rid their tank of this stuff but I have also heard of some overdosing and killing off their cycle. I have use the Remover in all types of tanks without any problems. Gone in 2 days.....it may be a bit more pricey $16 compared to regular antibiotics $6 but the peace of mind was worth it to me.

A sad welcome to the cyanobacteria club....
:wink2: