cycling, how much ammonia is too much?

[Chris24]

obviously 0 is ideal, but during cycling i understand there is no way around it.

i got a multi test kit that show nitrites, and nitrates, etc. the kit shows what levels are safe and what levels are cause for concern, and so on.

i picked up an ammonia test, and the colors will tell me if the level is anywhere from .25 to 6.0. but it doesnt tell me what is "normal" and what is "your fish is going to be dead soon"

what little information i could find stated it depends on temprature, ph, and the hardiness of the fish of course...but there is no real information i have been able to find.

can someone give me some numbers! please! ive been doing frequent water changes, but i need to know if/when i need to take other actions.

[Chrona]

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[hungryhound]

I deleted my post as it was the wrong information and I do not want to lead anyone astray.

[Chrona]

I checked out the site, but I think that there is one flaw with it. It reports the fatal levels in mg/l when most test strips report in ppm.

To get from parts per mg/l to ppm(ug/l) simply divide the mg/l value by 100.

Example .025 mg/L /100 = 2.5 ppm

Hope this clears up any problems you might have.

mg/L = ppm.

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But I agree the results are fairly conservative. You can probably get away with higher concentrations, but it's a good guideline.

[hungryhound]

My bad, the conversion site I looked at had it as ug/mL and I read it as ug/L.

thanks for the correction.

[NeonJulie]

Approximately 10 fish forums and numerous articles seem to agree with the following, but I could be wrong:

Fishless cycling, you can go around 4-5ppm and likely not harm the nitrifying bacteria. I had mine up to 6 or more once... and did some water changes.

Fishy cycling you should do what you can to do a water change if you see it approach .25ppm.

Also, be wary of the accuracy of test strips if you aren't using a liquid reagent.

[gm72]

Good post, Neon, you are right for the most part. Only thing you missed is that fishless cycling is the only way to go if you really care about your fish!:thumb:

[Cichlid_Man]

Any test kit that states "safe" levels of ammonia OR Nitrite should be disregarded.

Ammonia and Nitrite are dangerous at any level. Nitrates can be dangerous above 30ppm

Some fish can only tolerate it better than others but I assure you their gills are burning.

Either do fishless cycling, or try and find Bio Spira. It needs to be purchased refrigerated. In most cases it will cycle your tank overnight.

If you cannot get Bio Spira, keep doing water changes. 25% daily. This will not slow down the cycle process because the bacteria is in gravel, rocks and filters. Even on the glass. Taking out water will not harm the cycle.

[NeonJulie]

I would agree... Nitrates beyond the 10ppm mark are dangerous... mainly because I can't tell the difference whatsoever between Red (20 ppm) and Really Red (80 ppm.) *lol*

[gm72]

Neon, consider getting a liquid testing kit instead of a strip kit. The liquid testing is a little more expensive and time demanding but is far more accurate. The strips are really only good for a rough estimate on the situation. However, if you are up to date on your maintenance the strips may be fine.

[Chrona]

Neon, consider getting a liquid testing kit instead of a strip kit. The liquid testing is a little more expensive and time demanding but is far more accurate. The strips are really only good for a rough estimate on the situation. However, if you are up to date on your maintenance the strips may be fine.

I think neon has the liquid test kits. I have the same problems with matching my color to the chart as well, lol.

[RobbieG]

The first tester I had was a bottle of ammonia strips - the chart went from yellow to green - but the strips always seemed to turn some wierd shade of brown. I always needed to use 3 of them to be sure of anything. I think it had the same impossible to understand conversion tables too. (Also claiming that half the ammonia it takes for me to leap for the 5 gallon water pail is fine for your fish)

If the temperature was 80 and the PH was 7 and the stick turned yellow you were at 0 -2.5 PPM - If it turned green you we at 5 -10 PPM. Brown was definitely not on there. Also - if they were exposed to air of any kind they turned green in 10 minutes. Which didn't add to my confidence in them.

I decided that I had either accidently filled the tank with windex instead of water - or I needed a new test kit. The bottle cost around 10.00 and I was out of them in 10 days.

I bought a 45.00 liquid test kit and I still have about half the tests left a year later. Sometimes things that seem to cost less really cost more.

[Chrona]

The first tester I had was a bottle of ammonia strips - the chart went from yellow to green - but he strips always seemed to turn some wierd shade of brown. I always needed to use 3 of them to be sure of anything. I decided that I had either accidently filled the tank with windex instead of water - or I needed a new test kit. The bottle cost around 10.00 and I was out of them in 10 days.

I bought a 45.00 liquid test kit and I still have about half the tests left a year later. Sometimes things that seem to cost less really cost more.

If you are willing to shell out the dough, LaMotte and Salifert make REALLY accurate liquid test kits.

[NeonJulie]

The first tester I had was a bottle of ammonia strips - the chart went from yellow to green - but he strips always seemed to turn some wierd shade of brown.

Way back when I was fishlessly cycling... this was me. I thought I was the only one. What WAS that "olive" shade anyway! (Good thing I had the Ammonia Alert before I inevitably got API.)

[gm72]

Ah, good. Liquid kits are great. Stay with them!