Aquarium Filtration

[nae301]

New member here and I’m just trying to learn as much as I possibly can about the hobby. The girlfriend really didn’t realize that she would create such a monster when she gave me an aquarium as a gift.

After reading several threads about aquarium power filters (the hang on the back type), I have come to the conclusion that the general consensus is that a filter is really only about half as good as it’s highest rating. For example, a filter that is rated for 30 gallon aquariums is only capable of handling about a 15 gallon aquarium.

Does this general rule of thumb apply to canister filters as well?

[MonkeyPox]

It applies more to canisters then hob filters, as most canister pumps don't take into account the head (distance water has to be pushed against gravity). Most hob filters have a consistent head.

Either way, like any sort of efficiency measurement in consumer products, numbers rated are on a "best case" scenario.

All filter pumps will degrade in performance over time. The amount of degradation and efficiency will also be impacted by, or lack, of regular maintenance.

[Northernguy]

Welcome to the Fabulous AC!:22:
Depending on the tank size running a canister along with an HOB is a great way to filter a tank.I also have two hobs on 4 of my tanks.
I never have any problems with current or perameters.

[Discus_Dude]

Additionally, ratings don't always take into consideration that your flow rate is impacted by the type and amounts of media you use. i.e. using more or less bio-rings, carbon, etc.

Some of the bigger names, in my opinion, like AquaClear are pretty reliable.

[Northernguy]

Additionally, ratings don't always take into consideration that your flow rate is impacted by the type and amounts of media you use. i.e. using more or less bio-rings, carbon, etc.

Some of the bigger names, in my opinion, like AquaClear are pretty reliable.

I think the aqua-clears are the best of the HOBs.They hold the most media and there are no cartridges.
I like the Rena xp3 as a canister filter,It works great and also holds a large amount of media.Its also cheaper than Fluval and Eheim.

[CincyGida]

I'm going to chime in here with a question. I have a canister filter for my new 29g and I'm researching filtration for a 125 in the near future. I am debating getting a long tank with two overflows and use a sump underneath. This is a great way to filter saltwater tanks but I don't know if this is standard practice for freshwater tanks. If I were to use a sump, have any of you used wet/dry filters or canisters in the sump?

Nae - thanks for bringing up a good question.

[Northernguy]

A sump is a great idea for any large tank wether its SW or FW!
It also adds more water volume to the mix.

[Discus_Dude]

I'm going to chime in here with a question. I have a canister filter for my new 29g and I'm researching filtration for a 125 in the near future. I am debating getting a long tank with two overflows and use a sump underneath. This is a great way to filter saltwater tanks but I don't know if this is standard practice for freshwater tanks. If I were to use a sump, have any of you used wet/dry filters or canisters in the sump?

Nae - thanks for bringing up a good question.


I use the Eshopps WD-300CS wet/dry sump on my 140G discus tank, which has the dual inlet chambers, 35G overall sump water storage, 10G of bio-balls, rated for 1200gph flow rate. You definitely want to make sure your wet/dry sump is compatible with the brand/model of tank you're getting; otherwise, you may have to use adapters to connect your plumbing. Not a huge deal, but I needed to do this and it increases the chances to have leaking with the more connections/parts.

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It sounds like you're debating on getting a reef-ready tank that is predrilled, which is what I have. The Eshopps comes with an external overflow that HOB, but I don't use mine.

There are a lot of pros and cons to using wet/dry sumps. Some folks use both a sump and a canister on larger tanks to get the total gph filtration that is needed for their tank.

Pros:
*high flow rates, more so than canisters (but some folks use both)

*highly efficient in oxygenating the water using the wet/dry function for filtration

*great for breaking down waste and debris and/or trapping it in the mechanical phase above drip plates and use of pre-filter sponges.

*pre-filters will reduce sump maintenance, which can be easily removed and rinsed in old tank water or any non-chlorinated water

Cons:
*can be tricky to install the plumbing (bulkheads/tubing/sump connectors) to/from the tank and avoid leaking

*water levels must be maintained in the sump, but if too much evaporation occurs such as when your on vacation, the ruturn pump chamber water level can fall below minimum exposing the pump, stop pumping water and burn out the pump. If you have someone that can check on it while your away...you're golden.

* tanks using overflows can be noisy. There are ways to work around this however such as bio-balls in the overflows chambers, trickle towers etc. (Of course, I didn't adjust mine at first because I actually thought that the ocean wave sound was soothing and it makes me fall asleep easily in my living room...LOL)


These are a few things that come to mind. If I had it to do all over, I would probably go with two Fluval FX5 or Eheim models 2080 (or 2180) or Rena Filstar XP3. With canisters, they're great a mechanical and biological fitration, but they are not good at oxygenating the water so I would recommend a bubble wand w/air pump for added aeration in your tank.

Hope this helps!

[CincyGida]

Thanks for the great info. I've also been reading about using multiple AC110s. I'm assuming that I could use HOB's on the sump as well (just trying to reduce visual clutter in the main tank.) But since I do both salt and freshwater, I would go drilled-tank because saltwater tanks are almost always better with the overflow method and one day I may turn the 125g into a saltwater tank - who knows.

[CincyGida]

Also, I will read up on your filter suggestions - thanks!

[MonkeyPox]

Thanks for the great info. I've also been reading about using multiple AC110s. I'm assuming that I could use HOB's on the sump as well (just trying to reduce visual clutter in the main tank.) But since I do both salt and freshwater, I would go drilled-tank because saltwater tanks are almost always better with the overflow method and one day I may turn the 125g into a saltwater tank - who knows.

You certainly can use both or any combination to suit your needs.
The advantage of a wet/dry filter is the large bio-media area they contain. Most people find this alone to be enough filtration for their tanks.

[domjd05]

I'm going to chime in here with a question. I have a canister filter for my new 29g and I'm researching filtration for a 125 in the near future. I am debating getting a long tank with two overflows and use a sump underneath. This is a great way to filter saltwater tanks but I don't know if this is standard practice for freshwater tanks. If I were to use a sump, have any of you used wet/dry filters or canisters in the sump?

Nae - thanks for bringing up a good question.


A wet/dry filter would probably be the best for your sump... you can buy them or make one yourself, its relatively easy and cheaper than buying one (in most cases). You can also hide your heaters and other things you'd normally have to stick on the 125, in the sump.

[Crispy]

I run a simple DIY 55g wet/dry under my 190. Works great with one bulkhead. Also run 2x AC110s. Excellent filtration without using a canister IME.

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