Filter Admission -- In case anyone else might not know...

[Deleted User]

It's doubtful, I'm betting, anyone else was doing this but "just in case".

Far be it from me to read printed directions that come with products. This is strictly a last resort for me.

I've been using these Tetra Whisper 40i In Tank Filters in my goldfish tanks (recently replaced them) and currently have two in my mbuna tank which I must continue to do as it's on a mantle and there's not enough width otherwise for it to be safe. These are filters that fit completely within the aquarium w/ nothing except a cord that hangs out the back. This location won't allow for an HOB filter like I have in my other tanks (except the bettas' and those darn eclipse systems I don't like).

Like I said, it wouldn't cross my mind to read product directions, but the other day, I read a product review for these here on this site. It said one drawback to them is you cannot fill the tank up all the way. OOOPS! Yeah, I didn't know. I've been using the filters since July in completely to the rim filled tanks. I can tell they do still pull water through from watching bubbles that cross the path or some fish that like to play in the current. But I'm figuring they may work better not totally under water (urgh, duh).

Now, the mbuna tank isn't totally filled and we'll see... maybe the filters will do a better job. I thought they were doing a fine job as is, but from what I read, you are NOT supposed to cover them totally with water.

If I'm wrong, let me know! But I think this was a long time running mistake on my part.

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PS there's probably no "prize" here for real dumb aquarium practices, is there... that might help make up for needing to admit to my husband that he probably had a point when he said I shouldn't fill that tank up all the way (blush)

[Lady Hobbs]

Mine are all full to the top, too. But I don't use those filters. I have no idea of why they state that other than possibly they figure the fish are not getting enough oxygen to their tank when it's full. Doubt it but it's the only reason I can think of.

[Sarkazmo]

I have the smaller version of those filters in a 3gal tank and you need to keep the water outlet AT or ABOVE the water surface otherwise the water does not go through the filter media.

Surprisingly enough they actually do a pretty good job! I was stunned! Heh.

Another option for you would be a small canister filter like the TOMS Rapids canister. Runs about $20-$25 online. Here's a link to Big Al's listing for the filter. ([Only Registered Users Can See Links.])

Sark

[Deleted User]

I can tell looking at how it swirls the bubbles from the air stone disk in the tank, it's doing more flow that it did. I think I really shouldn't have had the tanks I used them in (now just in this one) up so high.

That's a good idea about a small canister filter! I'm going to look at that info now (and if I get it, maybe even READ the including directions LOL!).

I was keeping the water line up and over the water outlet on these filters, and like I said, since July. They've been in constant use in one tank or another almost since we started keeping fish.

[Deleted User]

Sark --

That first one doesn't look big enough (38g tank), but I wonder if this one is an answer:

[Only Registered Users Can See Links.]

It says it's a "Hang On Tank" canister, but I wonder can it hang on the side, or must it hang on the back?

Anyone use these or know? Might be just the ticket as I'd like something really not taking up tanks space but it cannot go on the back or it will be too close to the mantle edge (wood not as thick there).

Thanks!
Jill

[Deleted User]

PS this is the type of filter I'm currently using... and looking harder at pictures of the Marineland HOT's, I think they do have to go on the back...

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[Only Registered Users Can See Links.]

[Mith]

OK... I'm slow. So let me see if I got this right.


Jill... you're using a filter that goes INSIDE the tank and the directions say you can't fill the tank up all the way?

I can't for the life of me figure out why having your tank full would affect the efficiency of the filter????

Am I understanding this scenario right?:11:

[Deleted User]

Yes, I think you've got it right but I've long since thrown away the actual directions that came with the darn things!

What tipped me off that I wasn't to fill the tank all the way was a product review of it on this site...

[Only Registered Users Can See Links.]

I'm running 2 of the 40 gallon size filters (they come in smaller sizes, 10i, 20i and 40i -- I'm using 2x 40i) in the 38g tank. I had previously used some in the goldfish tanks, but moved to HOB filters and just live with them not being flush to the wall. However, with the 38g on the mantle, I cannot really fit anything behind the tank safely.

[Taurus]

Jill, just lower your water level a bit so that the output is level with the surface of the water. You need to have surface movement in order to have oxygen\co2 exchange. The 40is should be find.

[Deleted User]

Thank you! I did lower it and they seem to be working good, but the water always stayed good between changes, so I thought they were working to their best capacity when I had them all underwater (duh). I've had and am keeping a airstone disk hooked to a 40g airpump as well, so that probably helped when I was keeping the filters under the water level.

[Taurus]

Sark --

That first one doesn't look big enough (38g tank), but I wonder if this one is an answer:

[Only Registered Users Can See Links.]

It says it's a "Hang On Tank" canister, but I wonder can it hang on the side, or must it hang on the back?

Anyone use these or know? Might be just the ticket as I'd like something really not taking up tanks space but it cannot go on the back or it will be too close to the mantle edge (wood not as thick there).

Thanks!
Jill

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but the Hot Magnum is designed to be a water polisher. A water polisher is meant to be run on a tank for a short period of time to polish the water crystal clear. OK, one tank polished. Next you move the HOT Magnum to another tank to polish the water in that tank.
I'm not sure it's meant to be a permanant filter on any one tank or run on one tank all the time.

I don't know about the quality of the Tom Rapids? But I supposed you could run 2 of them, one on each end of the tank. But I still don't think that two of them would be enough for your tank. You maybe better off with the Whisper 40is.

[Taurus]

Thank you! I did lower it and they seem to be working good, but the water always stayed good between changes, so I thought they were working to their best capacity when I had them all underwater (duh). I've had and am keeping a airstone disk hooked to a 40g airpump as well, so that probably helped when I was keeping the filters under the water level.

As long as you create water surface movement with the 40is, you shouldn't need the air pump and bubble disk, unless you like them there for aesthetic reasons. Personally, I hate listening to air pumps and bubble stones, But that's just me.

The 40is move ~ 170 gallons\hour without media in them. Knock that down to about 120 gallons\hour with media in them. So, you have two of them on the 38g tank. That's ~ 240 gallon\hours. So 240gph\38g = 6.3, which means you're turning the water over in the 38g tank 6.3 time per hour, roughly. If the tank is not overstocked, that should be enough filtration, IMHO.

[Deleted User]

Thank you!

I like the filters because they fit that aquarium's location and the water's been good. I was just surprised to finally realize after using them all this time that I wasn't supposed to have the outflow under the water (blush)

And, I like the air bubbles! Chalk it up to me being easily amused thumbs2: I have them on most of our tanks and like the look and sound (not so much the wands or walls of bubbles, but the disks, I love!).

[dragoonwoman]

I have both the Tom Rapids canister and the Magnum HOT.

1) Magnum HOT is EITHER a regular filter OR a water polisher. It comes with a media cartridge and a micron filter cartridge, so you can use it either way. Check the Equipment reviews on this site for the Magnum HOT. My review is there.

2) Tom Rapid canister is very good, but it would have to sit next to the tank if there's no space behind the tank. Fortunately it comes with long enough tubing so it can be placed either way. It has flexiblilty of media used, like the ever-popular Aquaclear filters - fill the compartments with whatever you'd like. It comes with a coarse sponge, a fine sponge and ceramic rings. It also comes with the "mandatory" (according to the manufacturer) carbon insert. Pick up a couple fine mesh filter bags and load it with whatever you want.

3) I used the smaller (10i) Whisper filter and I ended up with water dripping from the back of the tank. Reason - unless you are religious about cleaning/changing the cartridges, the water bubbles up the back of the filter and then over the rim and onto whatever is supporting the tank. Quite the mess. One way to avoid that is to keep the water level below the rim, which is probably why the Whisper tells you to do that.

Jill - don't feel bad. I just reread the instructions that came with my Whisper (I'm anal about keeping those), and it did NOT say to keep the water level low. It DID say to position the filter above the water level, which is probably why mine leaked down the back. I tend to keep my tanks filled to the rim, too.

[Taurus]

Thanks DW for chiming in here. Jill, seems you have some options here. But I wouldn't rush out and spend money on more filters if the Whispers are working for you and your nitrate levels are in check with the Whipsers and water changes.

[Sarkazmo]

Sorry, I didn't see it was a 38G tank or I'd have not recommended the TOMS Rapid canister, although two of them would work for the job.

The HOT will work anywhere there's a lip for it to hang on.. side, back, or front. I have an HOT for my 135 and I loved it when I had the tank up and operational.

I'm planning on getting a Rapid canister for my GF's 3Gal tank, ironically, it has a Whisper 10i in it now. Heh. Like I said above, I'm amazed at how well it's worked. Really the only reason it's getting changed out is that the 10i is an internal filter and takes up a great deal of space that could be being used by the fish and plants.

Mith, the way these filters work is they draw water from the bottom front of the filter and push it upwards. Gravity forces the water to go through the filter pad and out the overflow on the front top of the filter. If the filter's submerged completely then the water's pushed upwards and back out into the tank as that's the path of least resistance. Very little would actually go through the filter pad so the water would just be getting pushed around and not actually filtered.

If it was me I'd probably go with a regular canister filter and be done with it though. Something like a RENA Filstar XP1 or XP2 would work great but then again that's another $100-$130 and if the 40i's are working and doing a good job for ya then I wouldn't be in a great hurry to change it.

Good luck!

Sark

[Deleted User]

I think probably, for now, I will stick w/ the two 40i's in the tank. I'm not sure I could easily camoflauge one of those side canisters on the mantle. I'm just like "duh" and thinking how much more I may like the filters now that I'm actually using them correctly. It looks okay, too, in this particular tank w/ the water level down about 1" from the black band that's the rim of the aquarium. It's perfectly level or it would drive me NUTS to see the water line at a slant (I am tooooo intense...).

Earlier today, I thought about one of those Eclipse Hoods (and I HATE my Eclipse 12g and 6g tanks, to no end................). But when I looked them up, it doesn't seem that they come in a 36" style? This tank is a 38g (the biggest I dare put on the mantle) and it is 36" x 12" x 20". If they ever made them in this size, that would do the trick I think. The tank itself has to be FLUSH to the wall, which is why I have been using the internal filters (only now I am no longer incorrectly submerging the outflow as I had been doing for months).

Thanks for the input!!! It's great to have people who know tanks, filters and fish to bounce ideas off of!!!

[domjd05]

Jill, we used to have one of these filters on a 25g tank, its true, it does work better when the water level is lowered so the return is above water.. otherwise the water just pumps out of the top of the filter and for the most part nothing gets filtered.

[Mith]

Thanks Sark....I understand now!

Jill.....I'm easily amused too hehe

[Sarkazmo]

Jill you could take black electrical tape and hide the water line. Another way to make it more decorative would be to put in some floating plants like Dwarf Water Lettuce or Frogbit.

Sark

[Lab_Rat]

Earlier today, I thought about one of those Eclipse Hoods (and I HATE my Eclipse 12g and 6g tanks, to no end................). But when I looked them up, it doesn't seem that they come in a 36" style? This tank is a 38g (the biggest I dare put on the mantle) and it is 36" x 12" x 20". If they ever made them in this size, that would do the trick I think.

I have to say, I find the filtration on the eclipse hoods to be horribly underpowered and I detest mine. The only reason I use it is because it is on a tank with very low bioload. It seems to work for that, but if I ever increase the stock in that tank (right now it only has 5 small multi shellies) I will have to go with something different. They do look nice though. I actually have the 5g corner eclipse for my betta tank and think the eclipse works well for that size, just nothing any larger.

[bluebluecow]

wow I never knew that filters could be so complicated lol. Im lucky in that I like tanks with inbuit filter systems, my 2 juwels have a corner of the tank boxed and filter in that and in my betta marine thats coming it has a wall across the back and filter in that. I had an hex tank with in hood filter and I hated it

Liz

[Deleted User]

Jill you could take black electrical tape and hide the water line. Another way to make it more decorative would be to put in some floating plants like Dwarf Water Lettuce or Frogbit.

Sark
Awesome idea!!!! Thank you!!!!! [Only Registered Users Can See Links.]

[Deleted User]

I have to say, I find the filtration on the eclipse hoods to be horribly underpowered and I detest mine. The only reason I use it is because it is on a tank with very low bio-load. It seems to work for that, but if I ever increase the stock in that tank (right now it only has 5 small multi shellies) I will have to go with something different. They do look nice though. I actually have the 5g corner eclipse for my betta tank and think the eclipse works well for that size, just nothing any larger.
I have the 6g and 12g eclipse w/ bettas w/ platies, but what I hate is how hard they are to get in and out of for feeding, maintenance, etc. They do an okay job (like you, not a large bioload), but I just hate the design and how the "darn" flip up thing falls off the hood when I do PWC's... I wasn't sure how the hoods that are sold separately are to get in and out of... but they don't come in a 36" size anyway so it won't be an option.

[Deleted User]

I just used Sark's electrical tape idea and it looks GREAT :19: :19: :19:

[dragoonwoman]

The simplest ideas seem to work the BEST!

I'm glad you (and others) talked about your Eclipse tanks. I had been eyeing those for a while (3g and 6g sizes), but I'll pass on them now that I've read your reviews. Under-powered filters are definitely on the "fuggeddaboutit" list, and who needs a cover that fights you during w/c??

BTW - You should put your opinion of Eclipses in the Equipment Review section. I go there often to read what people have written about various things, and you could help someone without even knowing it, by posting a review.

[Deleted User]

BTW - You should put your opinion of Eclipses in the Equipment Review section. I go there often to read what people have written about various things, and you could help someone without even knowing it, by posting a review.
Good idea! I only recently discovered that section of this site (I catch on SLOW!). I just added my thoughts about the 12g and 6g Eclipse tanks which hopefully will be helpful to someone!

[Deleted User]

At the risk of being like a broken record, I am so tickled with that electrical tape suggestion!!! The tank looks so good, I keep staring at it vs. working on a presentation I'm doing in front of a couple groups on Thursday (bad Jill!!!). I thought I could live w/ seeing 1" or so of waterline, and would have, but it WAS bugging me! Now it looks sooooooo good!!! Let me tell you, when H gets home, he better notice it and how great it looks on his own, or I will be playing the pouty wife role :11:

[Sarkazmo]

Heh, enjoy. :)

Sark

[Taurus]

The simplest ideas seem to work the BEST!



I'll second that thought, DW! thumbs2:

[Taurus]

Jill, just a thought for you. When you change the biobag cartridges in your Wispher 40i(s), don't change both filter cartridges at the same time. Try to do one or the other but never both at the same time. This will help prevent a mini-cycle.

[Deleted User]

That is a very good point about the filters and not changing them both at once. The filters have these thin sponge plates that are supposed to be "home" for the good biological stuff, but they're pretty light weight and flimsy. They stay and are not replaced when you change the filter bag, but I don't know honestly if they hold much good stuff (?).

Actually, what I'm doing is getting those ReefresH2O BioMedia re-usable filters that are good for biological filtration. I am going to replace one filter cartridge / biobag with one of those, wait alwhile, and then do the other. I also want to use the chemi-pure stuff in them. I don't know if one filter can contain both ReefresH2O BioMedia & Chemi-Pure (not sure there's room or enough water flow) but figured if not enough of those things, I could do ReefresH2O BioMedia in one, and Chemi-Pure in the other. (Those of you who know more than me -- ie, 99% of you all! -- feel free to correct me or point me in a better direction!)

[terrapin24h]

Along the occam's razor thought line; don't lower the water level, raise the filter. Sit it on a terracotta pot and attach java moss to the pot or something. That way you can run your tank at full volume and still get the best use out of the filters.

--chris

[Deleted User]

Along the occam's razor thought line; don't lower the water level, raise the filter. Sit it on a terracotta pot and attach java moss to the pot or something. That way you can run your tank at full volume and still get the best use out of the filters.

--chris
Aha! See here's another idea that sounds good and I'd have never thought of on my own!!! Thanks!!!

[Taurus]

That is a very good point about the filters and not changing them both at once. The filters have these thin sponge plates that are supposed to be "home" for the good biological stuff, but they're pretty light weight and flimsy. They stay and are not replaced when you change the filter bag, but I don't know honestly if they hold much good stuff (?).

Actually, what I'm doing is getting those ReefresH2O BioMedia re-usable filters that are good for biological filtration. I am going to replace one filter cartridge / biobag with one of those, wait alwhile, and then do the other. I also want to use the chemi-pure stuff in them. I don't know if one filter can contain both ReefresH2O BioMedia & Chemi-Pure (not sure there's room or enough water flow) but figured if not enough of those things, I could do ReefresH2O BioMedia in one, and Chemi-Pure in the other. (Those of you who know more than me -- ie, 99% of you all! -- feel free to correct me or point me in a better direction!)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong. The biomedia plates replace the thin sponges in the sponge slot? Don't you still need the biobag (Floss Bag) to protect the biomedia plate? If not where does the Chemi-Pure go? If the biobag still needs to stay to protect the biomedia plate, does the Chemi-Pure go in the biobag. It will be a pain to replace or rebag the Chemi-Pure every time you replace the biobag. If you don't protect the biomedia plate with the biobag (Floss bag), the pores of the biomedia will get clogged with debris.

[Deleted User]

That would be great if the biomedia plate replaces the black sponge plate that came with the filters. They haven't come yet, so I cannot see how thick they are. The chemi-pure isn't here yet, either, but what I planned to do wiht it was put it in a floss back and use the re-usable pastic forms and clip that you use with the Whisper filter bags (put the chemi-pure in one, where you'd otherwise place the carbon from the individual carbon packages that comes in the box of Whisper bio-bags).

[Taurus]

I hope that's the way things work out. Any biomedia that I've ever used stays on the "clean" side of filter water flow. In other words, biomedia should be the last media water passes through before it goes back into the tank. You do need filter floss or small pore sponges to filter small particulate out of the water before it hits the biomedia.

There are a couple of exceptions, but they only apply to canister (Ehiem)
filtration.

[Mith]

Aha! See here's another idea that sounds good and I'd have never thought of on my own!!! Thanks!!!

I didn't think of that either Jill LOL

[dragoonwoman]

I also want to use the chemi-pure stuff in them. I don't know if one filter can contain both ReefresH2O BioMedia & Chemi-Pure (not sure there's room or enough water flow) but figured if not enough of those things, I could do ReefresH2O BioMedia in one, and Chemi-Pure in the other.

Last I knew, Chemi-Pure came packed in a filter bag, and the instructions on the jar are very specific about NOT opening or dividing the package. So unless they've come out with a bulk/loose form, I don't think Chemi-pure will work in your filters, except maybe the smallest size bag (I believe they call it a 1/2 pack).

Just FYI.

[Deleted User]

Last I knew, Chemi-Pure came packed in a filter bag, and the instructions on the jar are very specific about NOT opening or dividing the package. So unless they've come out with a bulk/loose form, I don't think Chemi-pure will work in your filters, except maybe the smallest size bag (I believe they call it a 1/2 pack).

Just FYI.
Thank you for that info. I ordered a 12 pack of the kind that do 40g's (b/c it was a much better deal) but I have other tanks it should work in if too big for these ones. I'll get the smaller ones if these are too big. I'm excited to have the chem-pure and ReeFresh plates for the filters thumbs2:

[Taurus]

Last I knew, Chemi-Pure came packed in a filter bag, and the instructions on the jar are very specific about NOT opening or dividing the package. So unless they've come out with a bulk/loose form, I don't think Chemi-pure will work in your filters, except maybe the smallest size bag (I believe they call it a 1/2 pack).

Just FYI.

DW, I was thinking about that yesterday. How is Jill going to fit a 5 oz. (smallest) size bag into her 40i(s)?

Purigen comes in loose form. Jill would need a media bag. 100mL of Purigen will treat 100 gallons of water. So the math is simple. Jill would need 38mL in a mesh bag to treat 38gallons of water. She could split that between two filters, so 19mL in a mesh bag per filter. I think she would have to use Prime or API's Tape Water conditioner as they have no aloe in them. API's Tap Water Conditioner is very economical to use. One drop per gallon for chlorine and 3 drops per gallon for chloramines. Oh wait, she uses well water. She may not need any liquid water treatment if she uses Purigen or Chemi-Pure.

Jill, I'm just thinking out loud here (or with my keyboard) but I believe this post will make a good addition to the thread, and will give you something more to think about. :ssmile:

[MonkeyPox]

DW, I was thinking about that yesterday. How is Jill going to fit a 5 oz. (smallest) size bag into her 40i(s)?

Purigen comes in loose form. Jill would need a media bag. 100mL of Purigen will treat 100 gallons of water. So the math is simple. Jill would need 38mL in a mesh bag to treat 38gallons of water. She could split that between two filters, so 19mL in a mesh bag per filter. I think she would have to use Prime or API's Tape Water conditioner as they have no aloe in them. API's Tap Water Conditioner is very economical to use. One drop per gallon for chlorine and 3 drops per gallon for chloramines. Oh wait, she uses well water. She may not need any liquid water treatment if she uses Purigen or Chemi-Pure.

Jill, I'm just thinking out loud here (or with my keyboard) but I believe this post will make a good addition to the thread, and will give you something more to think about. :ssmile:

They sell Purigen in The Bag.

[Lab_Rat]

They sell Purigen in The Bag.

I think he was referring to the loose Purigen that is also available so she can use as much (or little) as will fit with her particular set up, not being limited to the size/volume of a prefilled sachet.

[Taurus]

I think he was referring to the loose Purigen that is also available so she can use as much (or little) as will fit with her particular set up, not being limited to the size/volume of a prefilled sachet.

Exactly. Thanks LR.

38 mL = 1.28 Oz. US
19 mL = 0.64 Oz. US

Purigen takes up much less space than Chemi-Pure. You need less volume of Purigen than Chemi-Pure to clean an equal amount of water. Perfect for limited space HOBs, Whisper internals.

[Taurus]

Again, I am not promoting the use of Purigen. But if you're going to use a chemical filtration media, Purigen is the one to use as it is very cost efficient and worth the purchase price.

[dragoonwoman]

Again, I am not promoting the use of Purigen. But if you're going to use a chemical filtration media, Purigen is the one to use as it is very cost efficient and worth the purchase price.

Plus - it can be recharged, which Chemi-Pure cannot. I've been thinking of adding Purigen to my filter in place of the Chemi-Pure, but I will need to switch from Stress Coat to API's conditioner so I don't "slime it."

[Taurus]

:goodpost:

[Deleted User]

Thanks for the input, folks. I appreciate it!

I use AquaSafe water conditioner, however, I have questioned all along if I need it. I don't put anything in the little tanks for the bettas and last time I did water changes, I didn't put anything in 2 10g tanks that have betta, platies and cories... I wasn't sure how to tell if I need it or not. I just know it's safe for ME to drink... I've been doubtful the fish need it, but had also figured adding the AquaSafe (with using regular filters as I have been so far) could not hurt.

Not ever having handled Chemi-Pure, I have no idea how big it is. I have HOB filters on the other tanks, and for sure when the goldfish switch to a bigger tank, they will have a canister filter. I'm figuring (based on what wise folks have told me) that once I do switch to a canister filter, that's all I'll want for my tanks... we'll see. But I guess if the chemi-pure will not fit in the Whisper Internal 40i's (again, only in 1 of my tanks, it has two of them), then I can set it aside for canister use or possibly use in some of the HOB's

Are (some? most?) HOB's big enough for holding Chemi-Pure? It's the 10oz packages of it that I've got coming.

Plus, I was wanting to use it with the ReeFresH20 biosponge looking plate things... I ordered those too, figuring I could cut them, maybe, to fit in various filters (?). Thinking maybe even in the 38g tank, chemi-pure in one and the ReeFresH20 plate in the other? And I was also planning to get the Penguin Bio Wheel filters for the other bigger (planned -- but soon) tanks. Not because of the bio wheel, but because you could get an optional media basket for them to put a cartridge (or whatever) in one side, and something else in the other. Anyone have experience with these, and if they are big enough to hold Chemi-Pure?

It's hard to figure out, not having my hands on any of these things yet. But, to be honest, it's being able to fool around w/ different products and gadgets that is part of the appeal of the hobby for me.

What we're doing over the next couple of months (ie, what most our "weekend projects") will be is setting up some larger tanks (2x 55g, 1x75g, and 1x 150g) and "getting rid of" the smaller tanks. Like most of us, I guess... I didn't know 1. How much I'd like keeping fish when we started, and 2. That I would want to keep so many different, non-compatible types of fish. I'd like to consolidate the myriad of small MTS and make it like 5 larger tanks.

So, at any rate, I've got room to stop being scared of the canisters and put them on the 55g's and up, or maybe to get answers from you folks if those Penguin BioWheel 200 and 350 models w/ optional media baskets are enough to hold the Chemi Pure?

Thanks a lot of the help. I appreciate all the insights you've shared with me!!!

[King Tut]

We had a hard time putting either size bags in our HOB's that we had at the time of getting the Chemi-pure. We have Aqueon 30's and 20's and the bags impeded the waterflow enough that it was flowing back into the tank without going through all the filtering. I now have some AC20 and Aqueon 55's so I may try again but am a little leary since it didn't work out so well to begin with.

[Deleted User]

It's sounding like the chemi-pure may end up set aside for canister filters in the future here... I am interested to see if it fit in the bigger HOB's though.

Regarding the Purigen, if I get the 1 liter "bottle" or whatever it comes in amount of it, does it include some sort of measurer so I can measure out for 20 gallons, 40 gallons, 55 gallons, etc?

[Lab_Rat]

Yay for canisters!!! :19:

The purigen that comes in the loose form does not come with any sort of measuring device. It is quite messy, make sure you get a very fine mesh bag. If the bottle treats 100g just take 20% or so to treat 20g.