Anyone here NOT use RO water?

[JaredCBell]

Im contemplating NOT using this for my 29g FOWLR setup. I dont feel there is enough evidence to support the side that says you should ONLY use this, for me to go out and spend even more on a device that i will get little use out of.

Your thoughts?

[MonkeyPox]

I do not. Way too expensive for my taste.

[ILuvMyGoldBarb]

What you use will be determined by the quality of your water out of your tap. Poor quality water would be any water with higher amounts of total dissolved solids. IMO, any reading over 30 on a TDS meter and you should be using an RO/DI, Cold Sterile, or Kanti/Anti unit.

[JaredCBell]

What you use will be determined by the quality of your water out of your tap. Poor quality water would be any water with higher amounts of total dissolved solids. IMO, any reading over 30 on a TDS meter and you should be using an RO/DI, Cold Sterile, or Kanti/Anti unit.


Should I use this: [Only Registered Users Can See Links.] to find out what mine are?

[Kyle]

I never used it before, I once got 5 gallons of premixed RO from the LFS and used it during two water changes in my 10g and I have to say afterwards my corals looked a little better and my algae started to go away

[ILuvMyGoldBarb]

That would work, but your LFS should be able to tell you that without you buying one of those.

[ILuvMyGoldBarb]

my algae started to go awayThat would be due to the lack of phosphates in the RO/DI water.

[glarior]

I don't use RO/DI water at this time and my water is very hard. Well, I plan on converting to a small RO/DI unit that does ~50gal a day which is way more than I will ever need. As stated before it all depends on your water.

[AABatteries]

I currently do not have RO/DI water in my tank, but I have a 50gpd Coralife unit. I'll be getting it hooked up after vacation and doing a 50% WC so that I have a good amount of RO/DI. Hopefully that will help with my algae problems.

I only had a month of bad algae after 2 weeks in, then it was pretty low. Then a week ago it got prettty bad, but its starting to decrease. So, depending on your TDS, you may or may not want to get an RO unit.

[MonkeyPox]

Some folks may want to consider a u/v unit.

[coachfraley]

I'm sorry, maybe I am missing something, but what does a UV have to do with phosphate control?

Wouldn't it be better to keep phosphates out of the system? Rather than allowing them in, then treating the algae outbreak with a UV.

[travie]

Some folks may want to consider a u/v unit.

UV unit only kills free floating things. And it doesn't kill phosphate or nitrate, so the source of the hair algae would still be there.

I believe a picture of Cocoa's 55 gallon tank of hair algae is in order if he happens to see this thread to see why RO/DI water is the right choice if your tap water has a TDS over 30 like ILMGB said.

[JaredCBell]

UV unit only kills free floating things. And it doesn't kill phosphate or nitrate, so the source of the hair algae would still be there.

I believe a picture of Cocoa's 55 gallon tank of hair algae is in order if he happens to see this thread to see why RO/DI water is the right choice if your tap water has a TDS over 30 like ILMGB said.

lol I read that in the reef section I think. I want to see what it looked like!

i went into petco the other day and ALL their aquariums were INFESTED with red hair algae. You couldnt even see the gravel! (ya, they also use gravel...)

[MonkeyPox]

u/v has nothing to do with phosphates. I did not mean to imply that it did.
Not every algae outbreak is purely due to high phosphates.
u/v unit could help prevent future outbreaks.

additionally, ro/di units may be more expensive then phosphate absorbing media

[travie]

u/v has nothing to do with phosphates. I did not mean to imply that it did.
Not every algae outbreak is purely due to high phosphates.
u/v unit could help prevent future outbreaks.

additionally, ro/di units may be more expensive then phosphate absorbing media

UV units only kill green water algae(free floating). All other algae that is attached to surfaces can't be eradicated by using a UV unit. Only causes of algae that we have to work at keeping in check are nitrates and phosphates.

[coachfraley]

ro/di units may be more expensive then phosphate absorbing media

That may be the case, but I still don't understand why anyone would intentionally add phosphates to a tank, then take steps to remove them:shrug:

There are many ways to get "clean" water for your tank. What works for you will probably come down to convenience and economics. I have 2 small systems, so I can afford to buy my FW & SW from a local frag farmer. It is easy, and it just works for me.

Whatever you decide, I would suggest investing in a TDS meter so that you can test your water source.

[MonkeyPox]

UV units only kill green water algae(free floating). All other algae that is attached to surfaces can't be eradicated by using a UV unit.

Correct, which is why I said prevent and not eradicate.

[unleashed]

Actually, UV unit are pretty much useless in SW systems unless they are of commercial grade......................

A complete waste of money anyway and they do absolutely zilch when it comes to algae control

Heavy skimming, frequent water changes, use of RO/DI water and a lower bioload are all things which WILL help with algae........

[MonkeyPox]

Agreed. I should have quoted- I was responding to AAbatteries and his algae response to the thread, and lists fw aquariums.

[Alpo]

I've never used it...ever

[labnjab]

I've been using it since I started, but I was using walmart ro/di til a few months ago (green topped walmart brand bottles) and was spending $10 a week on it. Then I decided to buy an RO/DI unit. It only cost me $89 and has payed for itself twice already.

Why would anyone spend all this money on a saltwater setup just to skimp on what kind of water you use? It just makes no sense. If you have under 30 tds like ILMGB said, its one thing, but in most cases tap water isn't that clean and RO/DI is really the way to go, wheather you make it yourself or buy it. Whats another $100-$150 for an RO/DI unit when you've already spent several hundred to several thousand on your saltwater setup

[Tigerbarb]

I use tap water, and my fish/corals are perfectly fine.