Celestial Pearl Danio

[BLE Bob]

Ok, I am going to do this one right! I am going to start from scratch and build a tank around the Celestial Pearl Danio. So here comes the questions. 1. Best size tank. If the CPDs like to group together then how many should I buy and how many gallons do I need. 2. Filters, which route will be the best keeping in mind I wouldn’t mind if my CPDs breed. 3. Plants, I see Java has been mentioned a lot, but other plants that will keep my fish happy. 4. What can I or should I put in with my CPDs. I want to have some sort of bottom feeders to keep my water healthy and keep the tank clean, but nothing that’s going to eat eggs and fry. 5 any other advice if your building a tank from the ground up…

Thanks

Bob

Thanks to mac for helping me find this fish and get started......

[Dave66]

Bob,

First, a densely-planted 40 gallon. Second, 18 fish. Third, a cool place, since they don't do well above 75 degrees, with 68 to 72 optimal. Canister filters are best, as the fish like a gentle current and you can put varied media in a canister. You can have a group of eight or 12 Tanichthys albonubes with your CPDS, since they enjoy the cooler temps, or an equal number of Danio choprai, as the CPD tankmates.

Because CPDS are a temperate, not a tropical fish, you're pretty limited as to bottom feeders, since the vast majority of catfish and loaches available in the hobby require tropical temperatures. And every bottom feeder will eat eggs and tiny fry, so you're out on that count.

Dave

[karbomb]

they are delightful fish. i have one since that is all the store had, in my 10g with my danio choprais. very smart little guy

[Wild Turkey]

panda corys actually enjoy cooler temps, 68-72 is just perfect for them.
You are going to need to plant the crap out of the tank if you want fry to survive. They will eat their own eggs and fry so i dont think it will matter much in a bottom feeder.

[BLE Bob]

Well it sounds as if using any type of bottom feeder is going to cause issue with fry and eggs. I have been brought up to think that the only way to have a healthy tank is to use bottom feeders to help in the cycle of your tank. If not what would be my options for keeping the health of tank and water without the “cleaning crew”

Side note I found a 20gal for a great price with hood and filter….. Looks like I might go down that route so please any information on fish amount for a tank of this size would be great….

[Wild Turkey]

Bottom feeders dont do anything for the cycle really.
I would really take a look at the free e-book and cycling stickies before i got started. Fish-less cycle if you can.

The CPD's themselves will be just as aggressive if not more with eggs/fry than the bottom feeders will. Esp since cory cats have poor eyesight. Whether you can breed them or not is going to depend on how heavily planted the tank is and not much else. Unless you want to set up a breeding tank.

Keeping the bottom clean falls on weekly water changes in which you vacuum the substrate lightly. Corys wont eat poop and thats whats all over the bottom, not food.

[sleeby]

I have a 20gL tank running here with five adult CPDs. Four females and a male. Also have four Red Cystal Shrimp as they like the same lower temps. I'm hoping both will bred out but know that they will lower each other's numbers.

Using black estes sand, fake driftwood and a large rock for hiding places. HOB filter. Some stones on the sand where the HOB current hits to avoid messing up the sand bed there.

The CPDs bred almost instantly. I was not even ready for it but there are a bunch of ~1week old fry in there now. Not sure if they will survive or be eaten. The adults do not seem to notice them whenever I am watching.

Java moss, java fern, dwarf hair grass, hornswort, wisteria, pygmy chain sword spiralis crypt and anubias Nana.

They are very small and very skittish! Sexy though. I'm hoping that once I have around 15 or 20 they will relax and be less afraid of me.

They are expensive and rare still so I would recommend buying a few and letting them increase their numbers rather than spending $100 or more on a bunch of them.

I put a sponge filter sponge over the intake on the HOB to prevent sucking up fry and eggs. Feeding both the fish and shrimp just decapsulated brine shrimp eggs and Hikari Micro pellets. They love frozen brine shrimp too. No one in there touches shrimp pellets for some reason - other owners have had luck with those.

Dark substrate increases their coloration. White sand seems to result in pale fish from photos I have seen. I went black sand and black background and they are fairly deep in color.

The 20L is nice as it is shallow and so good for plants to get their light. I have 28w (~22" X5) in there now and all plants are growing well with minimal liquid ferts. Both carpet plants are spreading well. Lower light might make them less skittish.

Here's a site not to miss if doing this:

[Only Registered Users Can See Links.]

and don't miss Glen's excellent photos in his sticky in the photo forum.

Sorry for the rambling post.

[BLE Bob]

Thanks Sleeby,

Lots and lots of plants is what I am gathering!

Well keep the info coming everybody I think I am building a great shopping list.

Bob

[Ryuu]

I'm sure it will look awesome after you get it all set-up!

Mike

[Lady Hobbs]

Make sure you have the lights for a planted tank first. No point in spending a lot of money on plants if you don't have the lights to support them.

[sleeby]

Java moss - lots of it is all that is truly essential and that does not need a lot of light to live. The rest is kinda for you as a java moss filled tank is not as pleasing to they eye as a nicely planted one.

I would also get some dwarf hair grass for a lawn but that's just me. The fry stay near the mid to top and the adults mid to bottom. So you will want some floating java moss for sure.