View Full Version : Ich Disease I think
mr_rich
01-22-2007, 10:21 PM
Well my 30 gallon tank only has a 3 corys, 4 rasboros, 4 shrimp, and two live plants.
What meds can i use to get the ich outta my tank i dont want to lose my corys.
I already lost all my Cardinal Tetras but i think that was due to my ph. 7.4 to high for them i guess
the tank was cycled.
So meds, which ones wont harm the plants. Plants cost more then the fish in this tank lol
Thanks Rich
Severus
01-22-2007, 10:51 PM
You could try Quickcure. Pretty sure it is plant safe. I have had good luck with it. Make sure your carbon is out if you have any
mr_rich
01-22-2007, 11:06 PM
question about not having the carbon, i have the 50 gallon marineland biowheel and the cartridge refills have the carbon built in how do i get around that?
mr_rich
01-23-2007, 12:54 AM
okay i have been looking ich up on line.
They say to keep the light off on the tank, keep the heat at about 25c or more.
well i already have it at about for 25.
also they state to do a large water change.
does this sound right.
also the carbon thing?
Thanks
Rich
Drumachine09
01-23-2007, 01:03 AM
i used ick away. It turns your water blue, so i dont know if it is plant safe, but it is good for your fish. After the ick is cured, put carbon back in to remove the meds. use a hospital tank if possible.
Glasstapper
01-23-2007, 01:04 AM
your carbon needs to be removed because it will filter out your medication, which is what you don't want to do. You can just leave your filter empty.
You should do a large water change (and thoroughly siphon your gravel) because you can help to remove the "baby ich monsters" :) They don't only exist on your fish, so it helps when you can suck some of those babies out of there with your siphon.
The warmer water increases the ich's life cycle, so it's less of a toll on your fish's body.
So to sum it up, remove your carbon, large water change (I'd say about 50%), medicate. Leave your carbon out until you're done medicating. Water changes and your carbon will help remove whatever medication is left in the tank.
kimmers318
01-23-2007, 01:07 AM
My 2 experiences with ICK were both treated with 1)large water change 2)stresscoat 3)increase temps 4)repeat with smaller water changes and stresscoat until you see no more visible signs of the ICK on fish, but keep temps up for around 2 weeks. I have never used any ICK medicine and have not had a repeat of ICK from either time. Hubby had ICK once on his oscars and chose to use meds, it was a vicious cycle of recurring ICK until I started squirting the stresscoat directly on the fish. ICK needs a host that is vulnerable, if the fish can fight it off themselves it can't reinfest. The water changes get rid of the ICK that may be waiting to hatch in the gravel. Stresscoat can be bought in a convenient pump bottle and has directions on the back for dechlorination or treating skin issues. Your carbon does not need to be removed for this treatment.
Also, begin to investigate for the reason your fish succumbed to ICK. What is your water change schedule like, was the tank cycled properly, do you ever test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, were new fish added that could have carried it in?
Sasquatch
01-23-2007, 01:55 AM
If you choose to go the medicinal route, be very careful. I think that cory's are scaleless fish and this can make them very susceptible to certain ick medications.
I know some people have used salt treatments with increased temps and Kimmers method should work also. As long as the fish are in good condition and not stressed, they should be able to fight off the ick.
mr_rich
01-23-2007, 02:07 AM
Also, begin to investigate for the reason your fish succumbed to ICK. What is your water change schedule like, was the tank cycled properly, do you ever test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, were new fish added that could have carried it in?
I do water changes every week for all my tanks about 25% everytime, declorinize the water and add bacteria.
I also test for all the above. The tank was cycled.
I think the ich may have come into the tank from the plants i bought, before i added them i had no problems..
I have read about medicating plants before adding them to your tank, what med would you use for this, i have a small 5 gallon tank that i am going to use as a Quarantine tank running outta room though, and most of my friends think i have lost my mind by the money i have spent on my fish in the last year. lol
thanks for all the help
rich
mr_rich
01-23-2007, 02:09 AM
3)increase temps
sorry what should i increase the temp to?
Severus
01-23-2007, 02:13 AM
80-82 degrees F
Not sure what the Celsius conversion is
jeffs99dime
01-23-2007, 03:36 AM
80-82 degrees F
Not sure what the Celsius conversion is
26.67 - 27.78 degees C
converted lol
Wallyfish
01-23-2007, 05:39 AM
Keep in mind that Quick Cure will usually stain the corners of your tank blue.
AuroraAustralis
01-23-2007, 10:39 AM
Ich reproduction is impaired in temperatures above 84 F so raise the temp to as close to that as you safely can for your fish. Most tropical fish are found in very warm water in nature and will handle the higher temp no bother. Increase aeration as high temps = low dissolved oxygen. Keep the tank lights off during treatment and gravel vac every other day. Continue treatment until you are ich free for 3 days. Worked for me.
I have read garlic powder added at 1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon to 50 gal can work and is plant safe but have never tried it.
Treat future plants with a potassium permaganate dip or a 5% bleach dip (unscented stuff, baby bottle steriliser is the good stuff lol) at a 1 part bleach to 50 parts water ratio for 3 mins (1:20 & half the time for delicate plants) and be sure to rinse really well with declorinated water before putting them in your tank. Both treatments will kill most parasites, algae spores and snails. Goodluck with whatever treatment you use :thumb:
kimmers318
01-23-2007, 11:31 AM
Good tips from everyone. I wasn't real sure about the plant dip since I don't do too many live plants so thanks aurorathumbs2: ( I only occasionally bring home the ones my fish like to eat!). Temps, take them up slowly to around 82-84. Sounds like you have a good regimen going for your tank and had the misfortune to bring something in. The good news is healthy happy fish will usually be able to fight this thing off pretty easily so you should have a mild battle ahead instead of some of the people I have seen that fight this crap for months.
Good luck!
Cichlid_Man
01-23-2007, 12:45 PM
Hi,
Just to throw my 2 cents in here.
All the advice you got is excellent.
What I found worked the best for me was no meds.
Also, for various reasons, get the carbon out of the filter and don't use it any more.
I Do a 25% water change.
I raise my temp to 82 degrees.
I keep lights off.
I add 1 tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons of water for ten days.
I add stress coat just because it helps with any fin or skin issues during treatment.
Ich cannot tolerate warm temps or even small amounts of salt.
Be sure to NOT do any water changes for 10 days even if you see the spots gone.
Ich will release from the fish and that's when it is vulnerable to salt and temps.
After 10 days do a 25% water change, then continue with your weekly water changes.
AuroraAustralis
01-24-2007, 09:40 AM
Good tips from everyone. I wasn't real sure about the plant dip since I don't do too many live plants so thanks aurorathumbs2: ( I only occasionally bring home the ones my fish like to eat!).
No prob kimmers :o)
mr_rich
01-24-2007, 11:49 PM
Thanks everyone, hopefully it'll clear up..
Fish look pretty good. Only one of the fish in my tank have spots on it so hopefully i get it early.
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