New tank

[sullybob]

Hey everyone I just aquired a 40 gsw tank with the water and sand that is well established I just got a few pieces of live rock gonna be a fish tank with possibly 1 anemone tank has a hang on filter but i was thinking of getting the marineland c220 canister type that also uses bio filtration any pointers or suggestions? thanks

[labnjab]

How much live rock? I wouldn't use a filter, live rock is your filter in a SW tank. Filters can lead to Nitrate problems down the road. With a 40 gallon I'd get atleast 60 lbs of LR if not more. Some of the saltwater experts will chime in soon

[cocoa_pleco]

dont get a canister, it will cause nitrate issues like lab said. LR is the best biological filter

[oldhead]

I run a canister and have 0 nitrate issues, it can be done. Are you familiar with the SW water hobby at all? If not then my first pointer would be to do some research before setting up the tank if you don't already have live stock and need it up right away.

[cocoa_pleco]

I run a canister and have 0 nitrate issues, it can be done.

lol, wait a while, nitrates will come. a guy on the saltwater forum im on asked the same thing, it was all good then suddenly he got a huge nitrate spike

[labnjab]

The way i look at it, why waste the power, live rock = free filtration (well almost free, after you pay for it initaly, lol)

[oldhead]

This I understand and I'm not on course to run the canister for the life of the tank. However, I do know of area locals here that have run canisters on tanks for extended periods of time with few of the associated problems, some with none at all. All I'm trying to say is that it can be done. As far as the OP's situation goes, I think it'd be wiser for him to get acquainted with the hobby before he proceeds. LR is a wonderful bio filter once established but for a beginner with a new tank, using it as a primary or sole source of filtration is not something that I'd suggest.

[labnjab]

Research as well as patience is very important, and you should also take a look at the Reality check sticky when you get a chance.

[kaybee]

....nitrates will come...

Agreed, typically canister filters aren't utilized/required with SW set ups, but in regards to nitrates it all depends on configuration, and perhaps other factors.

I've run a canister with my 65gal reef tank for close to a year now on a system which was run for over a year without it, and nitrates have consistently been 0ppm.

However, unlike the canisters on my FW set ups (which are LOADED with bio-media), the canister on my reef tank is configured for mechanical/chemical filtration only, with zero specific bio-media installed. Additionally, the canister interior and all media in it gets throughly washed in tap water weekly during routine maintenance (which kills off any beneficial bacteria build up, eliminating the 'nitrate-factory' effect, with no adverse affect since bio-filtration takes place in the tank).

I don't consider it a 'waste of power' how I have mine configured and maintained.

With that said, in my case I already had the canister on hand. If starting out, it would be a better investment to acquire more live rock in lieu of getting a canister filter.

[coachfraley]

I agree with Kaybee 100%.

The media in a canister would need to be modified to suit SW.

Just save yourself the trouble and go with LR and powerheads. Ideally, you would set up a sump with a skimmer and fuge as well.

Research a lot, and good luck!

[travie]

Agreed, typically canister filters aren't utilized/required with SW set ups, but in regards to nitrates it all depends on configuration, and perhaps other factors.

I've run a canister with my 65gal reef tank for close to a year now on a system which was run for over a year without it, and nitrates have consistently been 0ppm.

However, unlike the canisters on my FW set ups (which are LOADED with bio-media), the canister on my reef tank is configured for mechanical/chemical filtration only, with zero specific bio-media installed. Additionally, the canister interior and all media in it gets throughly washed in tap water weekly during routine maintenance (which kills off any beneficial bacteria build up, eliminating the 'nitrate-factory' effect, with no adverse affect since bio-filtration takes place in the tank).

I don't consider it a 'waste of power' how I have mine configured and maintained.

With that said, in my case I already had the canister on hand. If starting out, it would be a better investment to acquire more live rock in lieu of getting a canister filter.


I run a canister and have 0 nitrate issues, it can be done. Are you familiar with the SW water hobby at all? If not then my first pointer would be to do some research before setting up the tank if you don't already have live stock and need it up right away.


How deep of sand beds do you two have in the tanks with canisters? I'm just wondering, because if they're deep that would help inform sullybob.

[kaybee]

My sandbed averages about 4" (3.5" in some areas, 5" in others).

I'd like to emphasize that (IMO) a canister shouldn't be utilized for biological filtration purposes in a SW or reef set up and that my canister was added after the tank had been established for over a year.

I just wanted to say that canister filter doesn't necessarily equate to an increase in nitrates (though it could if bio-media were utilized).

[travie]

My sandbed averages about 4" (3.5" in some areas, 5" in others).

I'd like to emphasize that (IMO) a canister shouldn't be utilized for biological filtration purposes in a SW or reef set up and that my canister was added after the tank had been established for over a year.

I just wanted to say that canister filter doesn't necessarily equate to an increase in nitrates (though it could if bio-media were utilized).

Your deep sand bed will turn any nitrates into nitrogen gas. So a deep sand bed over 4 inches deep could counteract a canister filter putting out nitrates.

[jimpierce]

I have a 40 gallon breeder tank with about 40lbs of rock in it. Works great. I do also have a 20 gallon sump with another 10lbs or so of rock in it.

[kaybee]

...a deep sand bed over 4 inches deep could counteract a canister filter putting out nitrates.

That could indeed be the case.

However, the canister, and media is rinsed in chloramine/chlorinated tap water weekly with 25% of the media (carbon & micron filter pads) also being replaced (eliminating the opportunity of functional nitrate-producing bacteria formation, I would think). Maybe if I weren't doing this a rise in nitrate levels would indeed be evident. But then again I've got a light bio-load.

In regards to sullybob's stocking plan, I'd recommend not adding an anemone until the tank is well established (perhaps a year after set up, give or take, depending on parameters), and the proper lighting is in place.

[sullybob]

i do have some past experience but not seriously in a looooong time helped a buddy build a wet/dry be4 they were readily available the tank i got was established for 6/7 years with just the hang on filter and minimal LR strictly a fish tank just trying to figure out what i want to do:confused:

[travie]

i do have some past experience but not seriously in a looooong time helped a buddy build a wet/dry be4 they were readily available the tank i got was established for 6/7 years with just the hang on filter and minimal LR strictly a fish tank just trying to figure out what i want to do:confused:

I would suggest investing in either of these two books: The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert Fenner or The New Marine Aquarium by Michael Paletta. They will give you a lot of great knowledge or just a great refresher course.

[oldhead]

My sand bed is about 2" deep and my canister filter I too already had on hand and is maintained pretty meticulously. I'm not attempting to tell anyone that it's the route to go. Just simply wanted to point out that if done correctly, they're not destined to become nitrate factories. My plans are to eventually add a sump and possibly fuge. However I'm hesitant on when to do so as the wife and I have been considering a larger RR tank.