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GeneralGoldeneye
08-28-2008, 12:04 AM
I dont know if this is a good sign in the process of cycling but I do partial water changes every day. I tested my water today and everything seem in reason to my chart but my nitrite it is at 10.0 ppm I am going to do a larger water change today to get the level down as it is bothering my fish. My mollies that use to swim at the bottom are now at the top and my female hap is at the top but my male still swims at the bottom both of my haps are scraching and shaking I think do to high nitrite level. I dont know what my ammonia level is because it doesnt match anything on my color chart. Im useing strips thats one of my problem

GeneralGoldeneye
08-28-2008, 01:51 AM
Ok I just did a larger water change than normal I got my Nitrite down to a 3.0 My question is am I doing things right im trying to keep levels low so they dont suffer during the cycling but am I makeing my cycling peroid longer by doing this?

labnjab
08-28-2008, 01:53 AM
10 nitrite is very toxic so water changes helped there, 3 is still high, but you said you are cycling so just keep an eye on it and if it gets any higher I would do more water changes, are you showing any nitrates yet?

Lady Hobbs
08-28-2008, 03:51 AM
You have little choice if you want to keep your fish alive. The nitrites are very hard on the fish and those water changes are necessary to their lives.

nwnittany
08-28-2008, 04:03 AM
fwiw, I agree with lab and hobbs. In your situation, you'll need to keep up with very frequent water changes. Well, that is if you want to keep the fish.

I've been through a similar situation, and my advice is to be diligent with the water changes. You'll get through it and be happy you did.

And, you'll get very efficient at water changes :hmm3grin2orange:

dphoenix
08-28-2008, 04:16 AM
Yeah..you did the right thing dont worry. The reason why your mollies are on the top because it lacks of oxygen due to nitrite. it's normal.
That's why you want to make sure you have a good aeration in your tank.
Your fish needs oxygen.

You are lucky that your nitrite spikes! My case is little bit more complicated that I have to buy bio sphira to boost my cycle.

GeneralGoldeneye
08-28-2008, 05:02 AM
Thank you all I will keep up on my daily water changes and I started to get a reading of 20 ppm for nitrate a few days ago what does that mean is my tank close to being done cycling. Im not sure what my ammona is because I have the test strips and the color doesnt match whats on the chart. I need to get the other liquid tester. I set my tank up on the 10th of this month and put fish in it the 11th so it is more than 2 weeks old now. Thank you all again in advance

sushicat
08-28-2008, 05:09 AM
20ppm =O go change your water right now,your doing a fishy cycle not a fishless during fishless it doesn't matter if you have high nitrites because you have no fish in there but during fishy cycles you have to be deligent with the water changes to make sure your parameters don't get to high your cycle is finished your ammonia should measure 0 same with your nitrites and your nitrates should be around 10 ppm ...next time cycle the humaine way..Fishless

GeneralGoldeneye
08-28-2008, 05:21 AM
Not sure if it is a potitive 20 because i have teststrips and 20 is the first reading so it is between 0 and 20 and for the water change i did a big one today. I been changing only 6 gal out of my 29 gal tank every day but today with my high reading I changed out 12 gal and will do another one tomorrow. I am not sure if I should do such a large one again yet. This is my first tank and i knew nothing about cycling or I would have done a fishless cycle

sushicat
08-28-2008, 05:32 AM
you should get drop tests such as the api ones they are much more accurate then the test strips, such as this one [Only Registered Users Can See Links.] i would hold out for tonight then possiable get a drop test kit and test tommorow if the nitrites are high, do a water change

GeneralGoldeneye
08-28-2008, 12:26 PM
My levels may be a little high but i dont know what else to do. I do water changes every to lower the levels in the tank allready

sushicat
08-28-2008, 05:48 PM
o i forgot to ask what size is your tank and what do you have stocked?

GeneralGoldeneye
08-28-2008, 10:17 PM
It is a 29 gal tank and I have 2 Electric Blue Haps and 2 Silver mollies

GeneralGoldeneye
08-29-2008, 12:50 AM
I just did another water change today of 9 gal I did a 12 gal water change yesterday and the days befor that i was doing 6gal. I have been doing water changes for a week now and my levels are: ph 7.2, alkalinity 120, hardness 75, nitrite 1.0, nitrate 10 my levels are coming down and my fish are not scraching so much but thell still do a little bit.

tanks4thememories
08-29-2008, 12:51 AM
It is a 29 gal tank and I have 2 Electric Blue Haps and 2 Silver mollies

When did you set up the tank and did you start from scratch or use some gravel or a filter from an established tank?

GeneralGoldeneye
08-29-2008, 01:54 AM
I had to start from scratch the first day I put fish in was 8/10/08. I didnt have anybody that I could get gravel from

tanks4thememories
08-29-2008, 02:18 AM
I had to start from scratch the first day I put fish in was 8/10/08. I didnt have anybody that I could get gravel from

It's sometimes best to start from scratch this way you avoid any issues the other guy/gal might have had in their tank. Fish are surrounded by bad bacteria and viri just like humans, its just when they get weakened that those nasties can take hold just like with humans...:hmm3grin2orange:

Anyway just like everyone is saying you are in the middle of cycling your tank. Expect the Nitrites to keep spiking just keep testing and changing water till it stops.
- I would first suggest you get a "test tube" type nitrite test kit, (Just like mentioned above in this thread) they are more accurate and also less expensive when you calculate the number of tests you get per dollar.
- Don't just pour tap water into your aquarium condition it first (Chlorine kills some of your good bacteria = Slows down cycling of tank) instead either mix your conditioner and tap water in a bucket prior to adding to tank or turn off all filtration, add conditioner, add tap water, wait 15 min then turn filtration back on. I recommend the bucket method though at least until your tank is completely cycled (once tank is cycled the "in tank" water conditioning method still kills bacteria but you will have enough that it will not noticeably effect your bio filter).

This forum has a great section on cycling your tank to be found here:
[Only Registered Users Can See Links.]

As always everyone here is most helpful with any questions you might come up with. Good Luck!!!

GeneralGoldeneye
08-29-2008, 02:36 AM
I will try to get the drop test wen i go tomorrow last time i was there they where out of them. When I do do my water changes I have a large 70 L sterilite tube I put water in. Right after I do the water change I fill the tub back up right after and add Aquasafe. So when I come home from work I put a heater in it and 2 hr later I do the whole process over again :19:

tanks4thememories
08-29-2008, 02:45 AM
I will try to get the drop test wen i go tomorrow last time i was there they where out of them. When I do do my water changes I have a large 70 L sterilite tube I put water in. Right after I do the water change I fill the tub back up right after and add Aquasafe. So when I come home from work I put a heater in it and 2 hr later I do the whole process over again :19:

Awesome!!

As for the test kit they are cheaper on line its just shipping that kills ya so if you have a few items you are ordering and it still isnt available in your LFS then getting it online is also an option.

GeneralGoldeneye
08-29-2008, 03:11 AM
Thank you and I will check into it and see what they run online

tanks4thememories
08-29-2008, 03:31 AM
Thank you and I will check into it and see what they run online

YW GL!!!:hmm3grin2orange: