sailor
04-11-2008, 01:58 PM
EDIT:[b]The original can be found here:
[Only Registered Users Can See Links.]
and on many other websites[/b/
We have been kind of throwing the idea back and forth about putting a pond in the yard after we are finished working on the house. I found this whike surfing the web.
It's a bit of a read
1. Like any other culture in the world, the pondering culture has its own mythology, which has grown and matured over the years. However, just because our ancestors always thought it was true, doesn't necessarily make it true.
Here, 20 "old-wives tales" are examined and the facts set straight ... once and for all.
1. Predators will eat all of the fish! There is a constant fear in the water gardening community that raccoons and other four-legged predators will go swimming in your pond, and while they're in there, they'll help themselves to some of your prize Koi, Shubunkin, or goldfish. When you go out to your pond in the morning and discover you're missing a fish or two, it's very tempting to blame in on such critters, especially if you didn't see it happen. There has to be a reasonable explanation, and predators are as good as any, right?
However, take the following facts into consideration before you jump to any conclusions. Raccoons generally won't swim. That's not to say they never swim, or couldn't stand on the side of your pond and take a paw swipe or two at your fish. Fortunately, most fish will swim to a deeper, more protected part of the pond when a predator is threatening them.
The one predator with legitimate credentials is the Blue Heron. These tall, long-legged, big-beaked birds can easily wade into your pond, help themselves to any fish they think look tasty, and fly away with their bellies full. They are a protected species, so they are off-limits if you're thinking about taking revenge on them. However, a scarecrow, a motion-sensing sprinkler that can be set up alongside your pond, ready to fire a steady stream of water at a heron, has had some degree of success in warding off these curious critters. It's a good idea to move the sprinkler often, though, to keep them guessing.
Giving your fish a place to hide dramatically helps their odds of survival. Plenty of lily pads given them some
protection and will work to minimize attracting a heron in the first place. Other protection measures include a cave-like structure that can be built in during the pond's excavation, or if you already have a pond, they can be added with a little pond remodeling.
Rocks are essential in creating these hiding places in your pond. Crevices, or miniature caves, can be created within the rock walls of your pond.
The possibility of pond predators seeking out your pond is, indeed, a valid concern in terms of the safety of your pond's inhabitants, but the possibility shouldn't be a reason to avoid building a pond.
2. The presence of rocks and gravel make it difficult to clean a pond. You are susceptible to buying into this myth if, and only if, you've never experienced pondering with rocks and gravel in your pond. if you have a smooth-bottom pond, and each season you're amazed at the amount of muck and grime that collects on the bottom, you automatically rule out rocks as a solution. You keep visualizing that same amount of muck on top of the rocks and gravel and say, "NO!" to even considering them. ; It's understandable. it seems logical . . . until you learn the rest of the story. Rocks and gravel offer a natural place for aerobic bacteria to colonize and set up housekeeping. this bacteria breaks down the fish waste and debris that would otherwise accumulate in the pond and turn into sludge. Regardless of your pond's location (i.e., close to trees and loads of leaves), or how many fish you have in it, you'll find that having rocks and gravel in your pond not only makes it look better, but it makes it healthier, as well.
So, contrary to the myth, having rocks and gravel on the bottom of your pond actually allows Mother Nature to clean up after herself, saving you headaches and hours of work trying to keep the bottom of your pond muck-free.
3. UV lights such as those in the UltraKlear™ UVC are the best way to keep pond water clear. UV clarifies are one of the ways to keep your pond water clear, but certainly not the only way, and arguably not the natural way. The fact of the matter is that if you have a pond that's naturally balanced, in which the aquatic circle of life is rotating the way that Mother Nature intended, you don't need UVC at all. In this naturalistic setting, the fish eat the plants, then produce waste that gets broken down (along with other pond debris) by aerobic bacteria that's colonized on the rocks and gravel below, and then it's taken back up as nutrition by the plants, continuing the cycle. A naturally balance pond is a low maintenance pond because Mother Nature is doing the maintenance work for you. Pretty good deal, don't you think?
There are several drawbacks to the UV solution, though. First, no matter how intense, UV clarifiers don't affect string algae at all, and so this problem is not addressed. Secondly, after the regular algae is killed, it generally falls to the bottom of the pond, biodegrades, and provides another wave of nutrition for another (often larger) algae bloom. if you're not careful, it's easy to encourage larger cycles of algae blooms by using a UVC. If your pond is unbalanced, the choices are minimal. The third, and most obvious drawback is that a UVC isn't cheap, and the bulbs usually require replacement every season.
4. A pond must be at least three feet deep in order to keep Koi. There are thousands of two-foot deep ponds
around the country, full of happy and healthy Koi. A common myth is that ponds must be built at least 3 feet deep, especially if they contain Koi and are located in colder climates. You see, the water in a two-foot deep pond will only freeze eight inches down, even in the coldest of climates, because of the insulating qualities of the earth that surrounds the pond.
On the flip side, those of us living in sunny, hot states are concerned about boiling our fish in the summer. Not an issue in a well-built water garden. Between the lily pads and plants, the pond is kept somewhat shaded. If you add a 24/7 circulation system with a waterfall, it cools things even more. No sushi here!
A pond that is too deep could be considered a swimming pool by your local government and, therefore, fall under strict guidelines and codes. Also, more digging means more work, more water to fill the pond, and more additives to treat algae and fish illnesses.
5. Koi can't be kept in a pond that also contains plants. In a naturally balance ecosystem, Koi and plants
complement and need one another. In nature, fish feed on plants. As a result, they fish produce waste, which is broken down by aerobic bacteria on the bottom of your pond, which, in turn, is used as fertilizer by the plants to grow and produce more natural fish food. it's known as the circle of life, and to imply that Koi and plants shouldn't co-exist is to ignore nature.
On the contrary, fish naturally love to eat plants, and most of the time they'll (the fish) survive nicely without you feeding them at all due to the plants and algae. On the other hand, you have to have a sufficient volume of plants to accommodate the Koi, too. In the naturally balanced pond, proportionality is always a key ingredient to success.
6. Fish have to be brought inside for the winter. Fish do fine during the coldest of winters as long as you give them two feet of water to swim in, oxygenate the water, and keep a hole in the ice with a bubbler, allowing the naturally produced gasses to escape from under the ice. Otherwise, you let Mother Nature do the rest. The fish will spend the entire winter hibernating at the bottom of the pond and then they will slowly wake up as the water warms in the spring.
In areas of the country where freezing is not an issue, fish owners simply stop feeding their fish commercial fish food (which is high in protein) while their little digestive systems are dormant during the "winter" months. They can still give them treats like watermelon, zucchini, lettuce, etc., though.
7. Pond water must be tested on a daily basis. This myth comes from the aquarium industry and it has a lot to do with the fact that an aquarium is a much smaller body of water and the small size makes it more difficult to balance.
Mother Nature never tests her water, and her ecosystem does just fine. A well conceived, naturally balanced water garden normally requires no testing either.
8. A pond in my yard means that I will have a lot of mosquitoes. Mosquitoes will generally only lay their eggs in still, stagnant water. If the mosquitoes happen to lay eggs in your pond and the mosquito larvae hatch, the fish in your pond will consider them a treat and will pick them off the water's surface with great enthusiasm. Your skimmer will sweep up whatever the fish miss. In fact, a pond full of hungry fish makes a great defense against the West Nile Virus problems in your neighborhood!
part 2 continued in next post
[Only Registered Users Can See Links.]
and on many other websites[/b/
We have been kind of throwing the idea back and forth about putting a pond in the yard after we are finished working on the house. I found this whike surfing the web.
It's a bit of a read
1. Like any other culture in the world, the pondering culture has its own mythology, which has grown and matured over the years. However, just because our ancestors always thought it was true, doesn't necessarily make it true.
Here, 20 "old-wives tales" are examined and the facts set straight ... once and for all.
1. Predators will eat all of the fish! There is a constant fear in the water gardening community that raccoons and other four-legged predators will go swimming in your pond, and while they're in there, they'll help themselves to some of your prize Koi, Shubunkin, or goldfish. When you go out to your pond in the morning and discover you're missing a fish or two, it's very tempting to blame in on such critters, especially if you didn't see it happen. There has to be a reasonable explanation, and predators are as good as any, right?
However, take the following facts into consideration before you jump to any conclusions. Raccoons generally won't swim. That's not to say they never swim, or couldn't stand on the side of your pond and take a paw swipe or two at your fish. Fortunately, most fish will swim to a deeper, more protected part of the pond when a predator is threatening them.
The one predator with legitimate credentials is the Blue Heron. These tall, long-legged, big-beaked birds can easily wade into your pond, help themselves to any fish they think look tasty, and fly away with their bellies full. They are a protected species, so they are off-limits if you're thinking about taking revenge on them. However, a scarecrow, a motion-sensing sprinkler that can be set up alongside your pond, ready to fire a steady stream of water at a heron, has had some degree of success in warding off these curious critters. It's a good idea to move the sprinkler often, though, to keep them guessing.
Giving your fish a place to hide dramatically helps their odds of survival. Plenty of lily pads given them some
protection and will work to minimize attracting a heron in the first place. Other protection measures include a cave-like structure that can be built in during the pond's excavation, or if you already have a pond, they can be added with a little pond remodeling.
Rocks are essential in creating these hiding places in your pond. Crevices, or miniature caves, can be created within the rock walls of your pond.
The possibility of pond predators seeking out your pond is, indeed, a valid concern in terms of the safety of your pond's inhabitants, but the possibility shouldn't be a reason to avoid building a pond.
2. The presence of rocks and gravel make it difficult to clean a pond. You are susceptible to buying into this myth if, and only if, you've never experienced pondering with rocks and gravel in your pond. if you have a smooth-bottom pond, and each season you're amazed at the amount of muck and grime that collects on the bottom, you automatically rule out rocks as a solution. You keep visualizing that same amount of muck on top of the rocks and gravel and say, "NO!" to even considering them. ; It's understandable. it seems logical . . . until you learn the rest of the story. Rocks and gravel offer a natural place for aerobic bacteria to colonize and set up housekeeping. this bacteria breaks down the fish waste and debris that would otherwise accumulate in the pond and turn into sludge. Regardless of your pond's location (i.e., close to trees and loads of leaves), or how many fish you have in it, you'll find that having rocks and gravel in your pond not only makes it look better, but it makes it healthier, as well.
So, contrary to the myth, having rocks and gravel on the bottom of your pond actually allows Mother Nature to clean up after herself, saving you headaches and hours of work trying to keep the bottom of your pond muck-free.
3. UV lights such as those in the UltraKlear™ UVC are the best way to keep pond water clear. UV clarifies are one of the ways to keep your pond water clear, but certainly not the only way, and arguably not the natural way. The fact of the matter is that if you have a pond that's naturally balanced, in which the aquatic circle of life is rotating the way that Mother Nature intended, you don't need UVC at all. In this naturalistic setting, the fish eat the plants, then produce waste that gets broken down (along with other pond debris) by aerobic bacteria that's colonized on the rocks and gravel below, and then it's taken back up as nutrition by the plants, continuing the cycle. A naturally balance pond is a low maintenance pond because Mother Nature is doing the maintenance work for you. Pretty good deal, don't you think?
There are several drawbacks to the UV solution, though. First, no matter how intense, UV clarifiers don't affect string algae at all, and so this problem is not addressed. Secondly, after the regular algae is killed, it generally falls to the bottom of the pond, biodegrades, and provides another wave of nutrition for another (often larger) algae bloom. if you're not careful, it's easy to encourage larger cycles of algae blooms by using a UVC. If your pond is unbalanced, the choices are minimal. The third, and most obvious drawback is that a UVC isn't cheap, and the bulbs usually require replacement every season.
4. A pond must be at least three feet deep in order to keep Koi. There are thousands of two-foot deep ponds
around the country, full of happy and healthy Koi. A common myth is that ponds must be built at least 3 feet deep, especially if they contain Koi and are located in colder climates. You see, the water in a two-foot deep pond will only freeze eight inches down, even in the coldest of climates, because of the insulating qualities of the earth that surrounds the pond.
On the flip side, those of us living in sunny, hot states are concerned about boiling our fish in the summer. Not an issue in a well-built water garden. Between the lily pads and plants, the pond is kept somewhat shaded. If you add a 24/7 circulation system with a waterfall, it cools things even more. No sushi here!
A pond that is too deep could be considered a swimming pool by your local government and, therefore, fall under strict guidelines and codes. Also, more digging means more work, more water to fill the pond, and more additives to treat algae and fish illnesses.
5. Koi can't be kept in a pond that also contains plants. In a naturally balance ecosystem, Koi and plants
complement and need one another. In nature, fish feed on plants. As a result, they fish produce waste, which is broken down by aerobic bacteria on the bottom of your pond, which, in turn, is used as fertilizer by the plants to grow and produce more natural fish food. it's known as the circle of life, and to imply that Koi and plants shouldn't co-exist is to ignore nature.
On the contrary, fish naturally love to eat plants, and most of the time they'll (the fish) survive nicely without you feeding them at all due to the plants and algae. On the other hand, you have to have a sufficient volume of plants to accommodate the Koi, too. In the naturally balanced pond, proportionality is always a key ingredient to success.
6. Fish have to be brought inside for the winter. Fish do fine during the coldest of winters as long as you give them two feet of water to swim in, oxygenate the water, and keep a hole in the ice with a bubbler, allowing the naturally produced gasses to escape from under the ice. Otherwise, you let Mother Nature do the rest. The fish will spend the entire winter hibernating at the bottom of the pond and then they will slowly wake up as the water warms in the spring.
In areas of the country where freezing is not an issue, fish owners simply stop feeding their fish commercial fish food (which is high in protein) while their little digestive systems are dormant during the "winter" months. They can still give them treats like watermelon, zucchini, lettuce, etc., though.
7. Pond water must be tested on a daily basis. This myth comes from the aquarium industry and it has a lot to do with the fact that an aquarium is a much smaller body of water and the small size makes it more difficult to balance.
Mother Nature never tests her water, and her ecosystem does just fine. A well conceived, naturally balanced water garden normally requires no testing either.
8. A pond in my yard means that I will have a lot of mosquitoes. Mosquitoes will generally only lay their eggs in still, stagnant water. If the mosquitoes happen to lay eggs in your pond and the mosquito larvae hatch, the fish in your pond will consider them a treat and will pick them off the water's surface with great enthusiasm. Your skimmer will sweep up whatever the fish miss. In fact, a pond full of hungry fish makes a great defense against the West Nile Virus problems in your neighborhood!
part 2 continued in next post