Picking up 55 gal. tomorrow

[KINGMED]

I'll be picking up a 55 gal. tomorrow that is cycled with rock. I figure I'll put the rock in some 5 gal. buckets and cover the rock with aquarium water + keep the filter submerged in tank water while on the way home aprox. 2 hr. I don't want to disrupt to much so as to not upset the cycling to much, is this a proper way to go about doing this or does anyone have better suggestions.

[RainMan]

I've done similar... You don't have to submerge the filter... just the media. I've used a cooler which works really well. Becareful transporting rocks or things in the tank... I've scratched my glass up really bad doing that. Plus it could break.

It's best to use the water that was in the tank too.

[KINGMED]

I've done similar... You don't have to submerge the filter... just the media. I've used a cooler which works really well. Becareful transporting rocks or things in the tank... I've scratched my glass up really bad doing that. Plus it could break.

It's best to use the water that was in the tank too.I'm pretty certain I don't want to try and keep any water or gravel in the tank + it would make it alot heavier. I'll just take 3 5 gal. buckets and transfer the gravel over, do you think it would be O.K. to put the lids on the buckets tightly, this shouldn't bother the cycle or bacteria should it?

[RainMan]

Yeah... I was just making sure. Hey... I actually did that. I was young and stupid, I guess. LOL

Anyway sealing it off is okay... that's why I used the coolor. It was one of those huge igloo coolors with the airtight lid. It will be okay for a couple of hours for sure. Unless it is freezing out. Oh yeah.. another reason a coolor works good. but, bucket will be okay if the temp is moderate.

[KINGMED]

It's supposed to get down to the 20's tonight but in the 40's or higher tomorrow I believe. I live in Bloomsburg Pa. and it's weird gets warm and coold, just like most places I guess, guess I could be back home in Illinois where all the rain is coming down.

[Collin1104]

my lfs sells 55 gallons with lights, emperor 400 filter, heater and some other random stuff... for 100 bucks. thats a really good deal right?

[Lady Hobbs]

That'll work just fine. Bacteria will not die all that fast but you want it to remain wet.

[Wild Turkey]

my lfs sells 55 gallons with lights, emperor 400 filter, heater and some other random stuff... for 100 bucks. thats a really good deal right?

For new, ITB yes thats a very good deal. For new aquariums you can easily pay more than 100 for just a tank that size.

[Collin1104]

sweet!! they have tons of them just stacked up.. im gonna buy one next week!! my parents arent too thrilled about the idea lol thanks though

[Lady Hobbs]

my lfs sells 55 gallons with lights, emperor 400 filter, heater and some other random stuff... for 100 bucks. thats a really good deal right?

Not long ago the emperor alone sold for almost $60. Price has come wayyyy down on them now that AC is so popular but yes, that is a very good deal.

[KINGMED]

picked up my 55 gallon and 40 gallon setups on Saturday, the 55 gallon was horrible but within a hr. it looked brand new, the 40 will take a few days of getting all the hard crud out of it from being a salt tank. Question on the 40 gallon it has a bar across the mid top, unfortunattely I snapped it in the middle is there any way to fix this or what should I do? The stands were awesome, probably at least 150.00 stands when new. Got pool sand in my 55 with lights on it, going to clean the filter this week and get it started, the heater doesn't work so I'll be getting a good heater but for 150.00 I came out very good.

[Lady Hobbs]

You will probably have to glue that brace back together with something that is really, really good.... If not, you should replace the whole top frame as it does support the pressure of the water and is important to prevent bowing. Wouldn't take much to replace it and silicone a new one down.

Vinegar should clean up the gritty stuff. Put the tank on it's side and let the vinegar lay on that hard stuff for awhile and it breaks it right down.

[RainMan]

I'ld have to see the support brace to determine how to fix it... Using some aluminum strapping, drilling, and some aluminum screws comes to mind or stainless steel.

Or I would try to JB weld the plastic somehow. I'm not sure how safe it would be for aquarium.... But, I imagine once it is cured it wouldn't leak toxins into the water. That stuff is pretty handy to have around.

Sounds like you got a good deal though... a little elbow grease is always required when you get a 2nd hand tank. At least all of the tanks I have ever purchased.

[Lady Hobbs]

Good idea! Certainly there has to be some type of metal piece that could be attached and hold that frame from pulling apart. Good post!

[KINGMED]

hope I can do something easy cause I'm not very good and fixing tanks I don't think anyway. It really bummed me out when I snapped it, it is a clean break almost smack dab in the middle--I've heard alot of good things about JB weld would that after hardening be strong enough for the water pressure.

[RainMan]

I can't be certain if it will hold because I have never tried it. But, if it were me... I would give it a shot. I've jb welded my front bumper together and to the plastic mounting points using this stuff... it stayed together for years. A bumper has a a lot of force being applied by air resistance. Not to mention vibration. So, I think it would hold... but that's a guess.

This is how I would jb weld it.. First use something to slightly pull the sides of the tank to the middle so the 2 pieces of the brace can be lined up and forced together. Once you apply the jb weld, you wont want any pressure pulling it apart until it has fully cured. I have a few long wood clamps that would work great for this. However, a ratcheting strap wrapped around it or even rope with a tourniquet type twist would work (I hope you know what I mean). Then I would use a lot of jb weld and make sure it has plenty of time to cure before testing it. I mean a lot... I would coat a few inches of the plastic brace with it on either side.

If that didn't hold up... I would go with a metal strip or combined with jb weld for added strength... but you would have to be good at drilling.

[KINGMED]

I guess I'm not up on the metal straps your talking about, what are/is it and where can you get them. Also how would you attach something like this, JB weld I suppose? Hey thanks for all the advise, if nothing works I figure I'll buy another 40 gallon later, it's just that we moved the stand up into our room and my wife said I could set it up there. I was concerned about setting it up on the second floor due to the weight, but the landlord mentioned that the floors were all built from railroad car rafters and were very strong, he said if they were strong enough to hold up on a railroad car a few hundred or so lbs. wouldn't hurt it at all.

[RainMan]

Any hardware store will have metal straping... or strips of metal. If you can't invision how they should be attached... then it is probably not a project I would tackle.

Anyway... Jb Weld it... It's just like glue... but stronger. If you can take a pic and post it up... I can edit down some suggestions. It's hard to explain without a visual.

[Tooch]

What was the support made of in the first place? You could go get a piece of acrylic at the hardware store and use silacone to hold it in place. You could also have a piece of glass cut pretty cheap as well.

[RainMan]

Acrylic is actually a really good idea. ***Kicking myself for not thinking of it*** Some silicon would fuse nicely to the acrylic and plastic support.

[KINGMED]

They both sound like a good idea! No I figure with the metal I'd cut it to the same dimensions in length as the tank lip inside and use JB to attach it to the plastic top. The bar across is black plastic, I'm sure that the metal or acrylic would be alot stronger and stouter anyways. So your saying that silicone when dried would be enough to hold the acrylic glass in place, da... it holds tanks together so ya, sorry I was thinking while I was typing. Well I guess either way would be a heck of alot cheaper than going out and buying a new 40 gallon tank, I haven't priced them but Petco said they were at least a 100.00 new.

[helot13]

I have moved rock a ton of times, but as with any new tank set up you will want to go slow with adding fish. You don't have to go as slow as you do with a brand new tank, but don't expect it to be fully safe the day you first put water in it. On that note, I have seen people put establish gravel in the toe end of pantyhose and then drop that into new tanks as a "seeder" method. Works fairly well and keep you from having to mix gravel types if that concerns you.

[RainMan]

Here's a graphic... excuse the quick and pathetic ms paint attempt. But, I think it is easier to see what I was talking about.

Or maybe not? LOL

7099

[garyl43]

If you use the metal strap, you should just screw or bolt it to the plastic. That way you know it will hold (no JB Weld). If you use just JB Weld, you should drill holes in the plastic near the break and work the JB Weld through both sides of the holes so it has something to hold on to. Personally, I would go with the metal strap since it's hard to glue plastics w/o the right glue.

[RainMan]

I agree... bolting would be better. That's what I originally said. But not everyone is confident with a drill... or even owns one. The support is plastic, so plastic or metal will support it.

Also, bolting and gluing depends on where the break occured. The lip on most aquariums is only 1/4" or so... not a lot to bite onto. But, if you have used jbweld... you'll know that it will bond with about anything it comes in tight contact with. However, giving it some holes to grip onto is not a bad idea at all.

Again... a pic would've been a good indication on how to fix it. Eitherway though... I bet it is repairable.

[KINGMED]

Here's a graphic... excuse the quick and pathetic ms paint attempt. But, I think it is easier to see what I was talking about.

Or maybe not? LOL

7099
Kind of funny that's almost exactly the way it looks, ya that was my guess at where to attach the metal bar. Thanks for the graphics.

[KINGMED]

I agree... bolting would be better. That's what I originally said. But not everyone is confident with a drill... or even owns one. The support is plastic, so plastic or metal will support it.

Also, bolting and gluing depends on where the break occured. The lip on most aquariums is only 1/4" or so... not a lot to bite onto. But, if you have used jbweld... you'll know that it will bond with about anything it comes in tight contact with. However, giving it some holes to grip onto is not a bad idea at all.

Again... a pic would've been a good indication on how to fix it. Eitherway though... I bet it is repairable.
So should I drill like maybe 2 small holes on either side of the break and then apply JB weld between the plastic and the bar so that the glue can get into the holes and get a foot hold, or should I put holes in both the bar and the divider to help more? Also someone at work last night mentioned that gorilla glue was good, don't know has anyone used it. I'm not sure when I'll fix the tank hopefully in a week or so, I have to clean all the crusty hard film off the inside of the tank first, I guess I'll be buying alot of vinegar this week.

[Mvjnz]

The filter media doesn't just have to be submerged. The bacteria in it needs a constant flow of water, so it would be best if you had someone with you who could move it around in the water, so there's always water going through it.

[RainMan]

Gorilla glue is good... however, it eventually desolves. I've glued the soles on my shoes before... it lasts for awhile... but after they get wet... it gives out.

So where did it break? Did it break at the out part of the frame? or did it break in the middle? If you have enough room to drill and screw... then that is your best bet. And drilling to allow the glue to get in there will be good too. just a few small 1/8" holes on either side of the break... then work the glue, epoxy, or jbweld in there.

[RainMan]

The filter media doesn't just have to be submerged. The bacteria in it needs a constant flow of water, so it would be best if you had someone with you who could move it around in the water, so there's always water going through it.

I think that part of the project is already completed. LOL

[KINGMED]

I think that part of the project is already completed. LOL
Ya, I decided not to keep the bacteria coloney, I went ahead and got rid of all the old rock and replaced it with pool filter sand.