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doug z
03-13-2008, 01:22 AM
What do you think?

It's not to scale, of course..

Want to get as close to a Brazilian biotope as I can, but I cheated with the Anubias barteri var. nana.. I just like it better..

Substitutions? Additions?

Trying to go for a more Brazilian biotope (cheating somewhat with the A. var. Nana, but.. LOL)

Substitutions? Additions?

Note that I've since changed my mind about the Bacomba..

Leaning more towards the H. leucocephala (Brazilian pennywort)..

Denser, more eye-pleasing foliage..

I put the Cabomba near the filter outlet so as to help clear the detritus..

I also left the front left quadrant open for the corys to scavenge, and that is where I'll have my frogbit above (on the surface).

Let me know what you think, and what you might change/add..

ILuvMyGoldBarb
03-13-2008, 01:29 AM
You'll regret the Cabomba so close to the filter intake. That stuff will more than likely end up cloging the intake. That's the big reason I pulled it out of my tank.

doug z
03-13-2008, 01:32 AM
Note I said (and labelled it) OUTLET.. :)

Like i say, it's my hope it will help keep them clean, that and the ottos..

Note also I mis-spelled Bacopa..

ILuvMyGoldBarb
03-13-2008, 02:02 AM
oops, you're right. I missed that. I saw outlet and read intake. *doh

doug z
03-13-2008, 02:17 AM
So...

Thoughts? :)

It's a 75g with 2.9 wpg, laterite and ecocomplete, C02, substrate heater, if that will help your suggestions..

I'd like some colour in there, like a red, but I doubt I have the lighting for it..

How many wpg did you have for your freshwater, Gene? And what was the red one you had in there?

ILuvMyGoldBarb
03-13-2008, 03:28 AM
What filter are you using on there and what kind of lighting is it?

The red is possible but it really does depend on the kind of lighting you have. 2.9wpg is a different story when your talking PC or T5 lights versus a normal output fluorescent. The CO2 and ferts are going to go a long way towards allowing you to grow those. If you have it all at the right balance you will be able to get away with a slightly lower than recommended light level for many plants. The red on in my tank on the left side was Ammania gracilis and the one on the right was Altenthera reineckii.

BTW, who is Gene? I'm Brad. LOL

doug z
03-13-2008, 03:55 AM
Filter's an Eheim 2217

lighting: 2 x 54W T-5 (one 10K, one 7K red) x2 for 220W

Tank is 18" tall.

Thanks, I'll look into those plants..


BTW, who is Gene? I'm Brad.

*slaps forehead*

Sorry, thinking of "Algenco".. :)

Algenco
03-13-2008, 04:05 AM
I'm running 2-2.3wpg on my tanks, it takes around 3wpg or more to get the red to show up

PUNISHER VETTE
03-13-2008, 04:09 AM
Bacopa caroliniana gets pretty tall doesn't it? I guess you could keep it cut back a lot but you have it in the middle/middlefront.


I think in front of your group of Vals in the middle you should put another anubis or sword. Something that doesn't go as tall but will look good in front of them.

Will your E. Major put off runners? If so that space next to it would be good for them if not i'd fill the back wall with either more vals or substitute.


Just my opinion.
I've got no clue what i am going to do with my tank. I guess i should make a drawing like this which could help.

doug z
03-13-2008, 04:27 AM
Bacopa caroliniana gets pretty tall doesn't it?

Yes, it does.. My plan was to keep it good and trimmed at around 8-10"..

Like I say, I think I'm liking the Hydrocotyle leucocephala (Brazilian pennywort) for this placement, rather than the Bacopa..

Thanks for the input, Vette..

It'll be good when I get my substrate in, and I can start getting a feeling for scale..

ILuvMyGoldBarb
03-13-2008, 09:20 AM
220w leaves you just 5w shy of 3wpg. You are dealing with T5 lighting though so the wpg scale changes. With NO fluorescent bulbs you would be in the upper medium lighting range, with T5s you are in the lower-mid high range for lighting. With the proper CO2 and ferts you could easily do Ammania gracilis in the tank. My tank was running at 3.072wpg of PC lights and you can see how well it did, and you are talking about having 2.93 wpg for yours. That's not much of a difference at all. I'd say go for it, add a splash of red to the tank.

doug z
03-13-2008, 06:10 PM
Sounds good!

I was hoping to break up the green..

I had different shades of it, and I have the driftwood and the gray rock (yet to be found) but some red should really add some "pop"..

It's not a S. American plant, but....

(anyone think of a red SA plant??)

Adrian
03-13-2008, 07:15 PM
Doug, I would not put the camboba near the outlet. Reason being, as this plant does not like to be in strong water currents. Most plants don't. Which is a huge bummer as you end up with a huge "hole" where there is nothing that will grow well.

Perhaps if you can divert the incoming water with a piece of plexiglass or clear plastic somehow, you may be able to put a shorter plant there.

Just a suggestion.

doug z
03-13-2008, 07:27 PM
Hmmm.. I'd not heard that..

Even in the book I sourced the plant, Hiscock's "Encyclopedia of Aquatic Plants" the author suggests water movement.. Mind you he says gentle movement..

How strong would the "current" be, I wonder, out of the filter?

I have an Eheim 2217..

Adrian
03-13-2008, 07:54 PM
Hmmm.. I'd not heard that..

Even in the book I sourced the plant, Hiscock's "Encyclopedia of Aquatic Plants" the author suggests water movement.. Mind you he says gentle movement..

How strong would the "current" be, I wonder, out of the filter?

I have an Eheim 2217..

I wouldn't put a stem plant there, especially a long frilly one such as camboba. Most stems plants won't like the movement. As for the movement, look at the water flow. If it is like a waterfall, it's too much. Stem plants should only sway perhaps an inch, not any more. Perhaps try for a stronger stemmed plant. Something that has some substance to it. Or, divert the water flow away from the plant.

doug z
03-13-2008, 09:04 PM
Well, I COULD put some Bolbitus heudelotii right in front of the outflow (this plant prefers a strong current), and that would diffuse at least some of the flow before it got to the cambomba..

But it's a very slow grower..

I could put the outlet lower in the tank, nearer the base of the plants.. That would help with the swaying..

Or have a rock or a piece of driftwood in front of it..

OR, affix something in front of the outflow tube that would deflect the flow to the sides, instead of out, without affecting flow rate..

Food for thought..

Adrian
03-13-2008, 09:23 PM
Yes, that would be a good idea. Good luck in your endeavors. Having a planted tank is a very satisfying and very rewarding.

I will look forward to seeing your tank in the future!

doug z
03-13-2008, 11:44 PM
LOL

Which idea? :)

Note that the outlet of the filter has a splash bar approx 10" long..

That should help, no?

If I want to lower the return line, I may have to get a longer bit of tubing..

They didn't provide much..

I wonder where I'd go to get that.. Home Depot? A plumbing supply store?

doug z
03-15-2008, 07:07 AM
Nobody?

No ideas where I could get the tubing?

ILuvMyGoldBarb
03-15-2008, 12:11 PM
If you can get it at your LFS go there first. I've found that they are actually cheaper than the big box home improvement stores. You have the 2215 correct? That means the hoses should be the 12/16mm hose. That can be a bit hard to find anywhere but an aquarium store. When I went looking for it for my 2215 I lucked out, but most hose you buy is going to be thicker. If you need more you may be able to check with BigAlsOnline.ca, they sell it for $1.69 a foot there. Personally I wouldn't put the return that low in the tank. The return from the 2215 is not extremely strong, and if the Cabomba is on the other end of the tank it will be just fine.

doug z
03-15-2008, 05:02 PM
No, I have the 2217, but the hose diameters are identical.

I doubt the "l"fs (200km away) has any tubing, but I'll check..

I was unaware they sold it at Big Al's, thanks!!!

I was going to put the Cabomba by the outlet because I wanted the current to help shake off the mulm..

What do I do when I have outlets from 2 cannisters at either end? :)

I thought if I put the spray bar low I could point it near the base of the plants and it wouldn't blow them about so much..

What angle do you have your bar pointed at? Could I point it straight down?

cocoa_pleco
03-15-2008, 05:04 PM
you should have the bar at a 45 degree angle to ripple the surface

doug z
03-15-2008, 05:17 PM
Ah, but I don't WANT to ripple the surface..

Not with the CO2 going..

I'll have an air-stone going at night..

cocoa_pleco
03-15-2008, 05:20 PM
point it downwards then

doug z
03-15-2008, 05:27 PM
What if I pointed more or less straight down?

That would keep it from blowing any plants around, no?

Or would that blow around the mulm on the substrate?

Where do you guys have your spraybar(s)? On the sides or the back?

ILuvMyGoldBarb
03-15-2008, 05:44 PM
Ah, but I don't WANT to ripple the surface..

Not with the CO2 going..

I'll have an air-stone going at night..

Yes you do. You need some surface movement in the tank. I ran mine parallel to the surface of the water just about 1" below the surface. I didn't have any problems with CO2 concentration at all. If you have the 2217 then you don't need a second filter. Here's an idea of what I would do if it were my tank.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a227/iluvmygoldbarb/FilterDiagram.jpg

doug z
03-15-2008, 05:53 PM
*slaps forehead*

That'd be another way to keep it from disturbing the plants.. :)

Thanks!

I kept thinking of putting it low so I could conceal it better..

That would help to keep my frogbit in one area, too!

I was thinking of getting 2 filters just as a spare in case one broke.. It would also make for less of a hiccup when it comes to changing out filter media..

ILuvMyGoldBarb
03-15-2008, 06:08 PM
Doung, when you get to the point that your tank is as heavily planted as mine was, the filter media doesn't get changed that often. With the canister you won't be needing to "change" anything very often. The 2217 only has 2 pads that ever need to be changed and I never ran one of them. The carbon pad and the polishing pad are the only 2 you should ever change. The course pad is for biofiltration as well. I never ran the Carbon pad and I only ever rinsed the polishing pad. I did maintanance on the filter when I started to notice a decrease in flow. That usually happend once every 2-3 months. These filters are incredibly efficient.

doug z
03-15-2008, 06:20 PM
Well, I won't be using the carbon pad, either.

I heard it was bad for the plants and fish (absorbed ferts, caused health problems in fish)..

My plan is to rinse the sponge and the filer media in tank water once every 4-6weeks, and change out 1/2 the sponge every 6 months, change out the impeller every year....

Not sure about the media..

I'll have to read up on it more..

ILuvMyGoldBarb
03-15-2008, 06:21 PM
You won't need to change that impellor that often. I have a 2215 tha has had the same impellor for 4 years with no problems. It just now needs changing.

doug z
03-15-2008, 06:30 PM
Really?

Interesting..

Good to know!

So you never take out the biological and/or the mechanical media and rinse it in tank water when you squeeze out your sponge?

ILuvMyGoldBarb
03-15-2008, 06:44 PM
Oh I did that. I cleaned the sponge about once a month and then every 2-3 months I would rinse the ceramic rings and the Ehfisubstrat.

doug z
03-15-2008, 06:52 PM
Gotcha!

Very helpful, this, thanks!