Help with Nitrites....

[ILoveMyFish]

I have a fairly new tank. It has been 2-3 weeks since the last water change 25%. I was going to do a 25% water change today because I am noticing evaporation but I think there may be a problem. Basically everything tests fine: nitrate, hardness, chlorine, alkalinity, ph, and ammonia but the nitrite says Danger ...around 9-10. Is this ok? When should I do a water change and then how often do I do a partial water change and change and filter....not the bio filter but the filters with the carbon? The last time I changed the carbon filters was Feb 17th. 40 gallon, 3 parrot fish, rock, decorations, fake plants, basic lighting, also 3-4 weeks ago I added beneficial bacteria in a bottle to the system and thank God that got the ammonia to go down. It was consistantly HIGH but I think I was feeding the fish too much and am no longer doing that.
Please help.

[Lady Hobbs]

If you have nitrites, you tank has not cycled. Nitrites can be more deadly to fish than ammonia and you must do a large water change to bring those down to a safe range. DO NO CLEANING of the gravel or filter or your cycle will get set back again.

You must learn to do water changes regularly. Fish pee in this water 24/7 and need clean water to have a decent life and remain free of disease.

[Lady Hobbs]

Nitrite
Nitrite follows closely to ammonia as a major killer of fish. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated, elevated nitrites will soon follow. To avoid nitrite poisoning, test levels when setting up a new tank or when adding new fish to an established tank, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, and when using medications.
Also known as 'brown blood disease' because the blood turns brown from a increase of methemoglobin. However, methemoglobin causes a more serious problem than changing the colour of the blood. It renders the blood unable to carry oxygen, and the fish can literally suffocate even though there is ample oxygen present in the water.
Different species of fish tolerate differing levels of nitrite. Some fish may simply be listless, while others may die suddenly with no obvious signs of illness. Common symptoms include gasping at the surface, hanging near filter outlets, rapid gill movement, and a change in gill colour from tan to dark brown.
Fish that are exposed to even low levels of nitrite for long periods of time suffer damage to their immune system and are prone to secondary diseases, such as ich, fin rot, and bacterial infections. As methemoglobin levels increase damage occurs to the liver, gills and blood cells. If untreated, affected fish eventually die from lack of oxygen, and/or secondary diseases.
The addition of one gram of aquarium salt per 2 litre of water will prevent methemoglobin from building up. Aeration should be increased. Feedings should be reduced and no new fish should be added until nitrite levels are reduced to zero.
If your fish show any symptoms of nitrite poisoning you should immediately test the aquarium water, if the water tests with nitrite you should:
Do large water change.
Add aquarium salt.
Reduce feeding.
Increase aeration.
Nitrite is lethal at lower levels than ammonia. Therefore continue daily testing and treatment until the nitrite falls to zero.

[ILoveMyFish]

how large of a change? so if I do "frequent" water changes it won't mess up the cycle or the progress I have gotten so far? When I replace water should I add more of the beneficial bacteria also?

Oh, and what is frequent?

I've read alot of stuff on how to cycle a tank....a little too late....after the fish were added like lfs said to do...so I'm a little out of order....as you already know. Thank you.

I test it everyday and it seems like no matter what I do it keeps going back to the beginning of the cycle....so after driving lfs and petsmart nuts they told me to just let it sit for 2 weeks and do nothing and then test it and that is what I've done and that is where I'm at. I'm going to do these things but hope you answer those last questions. Thank you Lady Hobbs. I knew I could count on you.

[digital3]

You're going to need to do as many water changes as needed.

To determine that, you're going to have to be testing your Ammonia/Nitrites daily. Maybe twice a day. Hopefully, you're using a good liquid test kit. When you see those levels getting too high, you need to do a water change. Once you're Ammonia and Nitrites are zero, you are cycled. You also want to keep an eye on your Nitrates. Do not let it sit. You're going to need to keep a close eye on your tank until it is cycled.

Don't fret, we all make mistakes, I can't tell you how many fish I've killed. We just learn, and move forward... :thumb:

[Lady Hobbs]

Apparently the LPS wants to sell you more fish after yours die!! How stupid of them when it is well known that fish will die due to toxins.

Your tank will not be affected by the water changes as far as setting the cycle back if only the water is changed. Don't clean the gravel, decorations or change the filter media at all. Doing so removes the bacteria you are trying to grow.

Right now to get that nitrite down, I would change 50-60 percent. I know that's a large water change but your nitrites are very high.

I change 50% every week on my tanks. If you have any bacteria additives, add it to the tank after doing your water change.

[ILoveMyFish]

I completly understand everything except I just want to clarify - when I do water changes (until the tank is cycled) add the beneficial bacteria per instructions. correct? Thank you so much for helping me. Thanks to all !!:malelovies:

[Lady Hobbs]

Yes. After you have a cycled tank you won't need to add it anymore but will still need to stay on a regular water changing schedule.

Make sure to always use dechlorinatored water, too, unless you have a well.