View Full Version : **help Me**

02-03-2008, 08:22 AM
today my flowerhorn and blood parrot died from ich. i was too late on the medicine. right now i have 1 blood parrot and a pleco. i did a 75% waterchange, cleaned my filter, but yet my water is still cloudy. whats the reasoning??!??!?!?!?! what can i do to make it clear again.

Demi ^_^
02-03-2008, 09:49 AM
Hmm, have you got driftwood in their? My tanks water is cloudy at the moment from the dirftwood we have in their =)

02-03-2008, 01:10 PM
The ich medication usually makes the water cloudy, so will a nitrate spike. Did you add those fish recently?

Driftwood shouldn't make the water cloudy, it just turns it a brownish color.

02-03-2008, 05:46 PM
The ich medication usually makes the water cloudy, so will a nitrate spike. Did you add those fish recently?

Driftwood shouldn't make the water cloudy, it just turns it a brownish color.

its been about 2 weeks, then the ich occured

02-03-2008, 05:52 PM
did you cure the driftwood by boiling it for 1-2 hours...... also to treat ich there are a few things you can do... before you nuke your tank with malchette green try to raise the temperature upto 84 degrees, blast your airstones as higher temperatures allow for decreased o2 in water, then salt the tank...........

other way is a malchette green based product like ich guard or quick cure. You need to dose a 2-3 week cycle though..... dose it, wait 24 hours dose it again, wait 24 hours dose it again, wait 24 hours do a 35% water change, wait 48 hours dose it again, wait 24 hours, 35% water change, wait 48 hours dose it again..... you need to do this for two weeks or a week after ich appears gone.... when it is attached to the fish it cant be treated but when it falls to the gravel to respawn it can be killed.....

02-07-2008, 12:38 AM
Disease Type: Parasitic

Organism: Ichthyophthirius multifilis

Names: Ich, White Spot
Description: The name translates to "fish louse with many children", a title that fits well, as each parasite may produce over a thousand offspring. Although the disease is the equivalent of a skin infection, it can easily be fatal to a fish stressed by poor diet or habitat.
# Symptoms: Small white spots resembling sand
# Fish scratch against rocks and gravel
# In advanced stages fish become lethargic
# Redness or bloody streaks in advanced stages

Infected fish are covered to various degrees with small white spots. Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed. However, ich won't remain unnoticed for long. Like a bad penny, it will be back with a vengeance.
The adult parasite burrows into the skin of its victim, feeding on blood and dead epithelial cells. The irritation caused by the burrowing parasite causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts seen as a small spots. The fish feels as if it's been bitten by a mosquito. It's not unusual to see infected fish scratching against rocks and gravel in an effort to get relief.
After several days of feasting, the engorged parasite develops into a trophozoite, burrows out of the fish and sinks bottom of the tank. Secreting a soft jellylike substance, it forms a protective membrane inside of which it divides into hundreds of baby parasites, known as tomites. The hungry tomites soon leave their home in search of a fresh fish to dine upon.
It is during the free-swimming stage, which lasts a mere three days, that the parasite is vulnerable to medication. Once it has burrowed into a new host fish it is safely protected from chemicals in the water.
# Treatment: Raise water temperature
# Medicate for 10-14 days
# Reduce medication when treating scaleless fish
# Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment
# Perform water changes between treatments

The entire cycle takes about two weeks from start to finish. Higher temps will shorten the cycle, while low temps lengthen it. Therefore, raising the water temp shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication.
Treatments must be given for a long enough period to assure that all parasites are gone. Watch carefully for other infections, as secondary infections often occur where the skin has been damaged by the parasite. Although nothing kills the parasite once it has checked into it's fish "hotel", several chemicals kill ich once it has left the fish. Malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride are all effective, and are available under several brand names.
Dose based on the package instructions, however cut dosages in half when treating scaleless catfish and tetras. Regardless of the medication used, treatment should be given continuously for 10-14 days to ensure all parasites are killed. Between treatments a partial water change is recommended. Keep water temperatures higher than usual to speed up the life cycle of the parasite. Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment, as it will remove the chemicals.
# Prevention: Quarantine new fish for two weeks
# Treat plants before adding to tank
# Maintain high water quality
# Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet

The best way to avoid ich is to quarantine all new fish in a separate tank for two weeks before moving them to the regular tank. When quarantine is not possible, a prophylactic treatment may be used. Either methylene blue or malachite green given when new fish are introduced and again four days later will help reduce incidence of infection. New plants should also be treated, as they can carry ich cysts. Maintaining high water quality, avoiding temperature fluctuations,and providing a robust diet is the best preventative for ich and other diseases.