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Dave66
01-20-2008, 12:12 AM
The Amazon River system in South America is home to a dazzling variety of small, colorful, schooling fish known as Tetras. They are justly popular aquarium fish with their glittering colors and synchronized schooling behavior. However, few fish keepers keep them properly and in sympathetic surroundings that shows them at their best. In this post, I'll show you how to keep these beautiful little fish beautifully.
First, the origin of the common name; Tetra. When explorers brought back fish from the Amazon region in the teens, 20's and 30's, science lumped them all, big and small, into the Genus Tetragonopterus based on the number and shape of their teeth; which all Tetras have, from little Neon Tetras to the fearsome Piranha. That Genus is now almost totally vacated, and applies to only two fish I know of; T. argentus and T. chalceus, both ovoid, silvery Tetras.
The vast majority of Tetras available in the hobby do best in moderately soft, pH 6.8 water at 75 to 78 degrees, though nearly all are adaptable to a point. They are rarely as colorful in hard water and at high pH, and are more prone to disease in such conditions. What they like are well-planted tanks with driftwood and stones. They don't like very bright tanks, so floating plants should be provided over the main viewing area so the light is filtered. I primarily use Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum) for this purpose, though any floating species would do. Tetras look most attractive and colorful swimming through the shadows and light. Dark-colored substrates intensifies their colors.
Tetras are all long-lived, especially for little fish. You should expect at least five years with your charges, though with some species, you could enjoy them for more than 10 years.
One item that many overlook is that Tetras are very much schooling fish, thus for their continued health, one is obligated to keep them so. How many? In a well planted, established and filtered 20 gallon, 48 neon-sized Tetras easily. In a larger tank, say a 75 for example, it's not at all difficult to keep 10 dozen.
Why? Because the neon-sized Tetras impinge so very little on water quality.
Feeding is another matter. Tetras have teeth, meaning their diet should contain meaty items primarily, with vegetative foods a smaller percentage. ALL of them do better and are more active, colorful and vivacious if fed live foods two or three times a week. Daphnia pulex is a favorite, though they do like wingless Dropsilia species fruit flies. The small Tetras can choke on things like white worms, so they should be cut into halves or thirds before feeding. A good pelleted food should be the staple, with vegetative foods, like Spirolina flakes, a couple times a week. Live food (if available and clean) as a substitute for a meal two or three times a week.
Feeding should be small meals given often, rather than one large meal a day, as Tetras are nibblers, not gorgers. As they are fast eaters, no more than they can finish in a minute three to five times a day.
So, give them the sympathetic surrounding of a soft, slightly acid well planted tank coupled with a good diet, and your Tetra tank will be the envy of all who view it.

Now some species

A little fish dropped a nuclear bomb on the aquarium world in 1933. Now ubiquitous when the word Tetra is used, Paracheriodon innesi, the Neon Tetra, leads off our list.
A diminutive one and a quarter inches, its almost surreal colors were hard to believe when it debuted. A brilliant, electric-blue band runs from the nose to tail dividing an olive back and a bright white stomach accented by a blood-red mark on its posterior half. As a large school in a properly set up planted tank, the Neon Tetra has few equals.
Neon tetras are as beautiful as they are difficult to breed. Hailing from the dark, tea colored waters of the Amazon basin, their eggs will dissolve when exposed to light. A 15 to 20 gallon tank filled with water dosed with a commercial black water extract and mild filtration, furnished with dead leaves on the bottom, driftwood and small, rounded stones should be the setup for breeding. When I bred these fish, I painted the outside of the tank with black acrylic save for a small window low in front, covered with cardboard. A blanket topped the tank. One must use real ingenuity in breeding this family of fishes, but of all of them, Neons and their close cousins Cardinals (P. axelrodi) are perhaps the most challenging.

My personal favorite of the family is the Flag Tetra, Hyphessobrycon heterorhabdus.
Seen in a bare pet store tank they are less than impressive, but given proper surroundings and some time to settle in, they are one of the most attractive glittering gems of the smaller Tetras. No book or internet photo can do this little fish justice.
A dark background and substrate, floating plants in a well planted aquarium will reward the keeper with a 1 3/4 inch showpiece. A brilliant band of red, gold and black culminates in a fiery red upper eye. A silvery tummy and an light olive back have a translucent quality which is difficult to describe. When caught in the right light, a little white hook is visible on the tip of the anal fin and white tail tips of the males. The females lack the white marks, and are just a hair bulkier and perhaps not quite as translucent as the males. The fish are egg scatterers that prefer to breed over fine-leaved plants. The parents are very good at eating them as they fall, so the keeper must intervene and remove the breeders promptly when breeding is complete. To distract them from the eggs until you can remove the parents, its a good idea to introduce several Daphnia to the tank while the fish are breeding.
Their colors are truly stellar when fed Daphnia and Dropsilia a few times a week.

Appearing to be carrying a neon-red light from within, the Glowlight Tetra, Hemmigrammus erthrozonus is a great schooler for the new Tetra keeper. An electric-red line at the middle of the fish terminates in a red upper eye. In mature fish, the dorsal fin can have the same red on the first few rays. The fish is partially translucent, save for the silvery sack containing the organs. Glowlights top out at 1 3/4 inches.
In a dark bottomed tank with a deep green or blue-black background, Glowlights winding through the plants en masse is a sight few will forget. Quite hardy when well cared for, Glowlights show best as the single Tetra species in the tank. Very free breeders over fine-leaved plants, Glowlights are a prime candidate for a first Tetra bred. Rather than the normal scatters, Glowlight pairs lock fins side by side and do a funky little barrel roll as the eggs and milt are expelled. This is repeated until there are roughly 100 eggs in the plants.

On to Part 2

Dave66
01-20-2008, 12:12 AM
As glittery as their namesake, Diamond Tetras, Moenkhausia pitteri, are a larger tetra species for the larger tank.
Seen in the store they are often washed out and unimpressive, but sympathetic surroundings and time will reward the keep with a 'fish of distinction' according to Innes (William T. Innes, Exotic Aquarium Fishes, 1953). The fish are a glistening sliver, with each scale tipped with green sparkles. When the fish mature, the dorsal and anal fins of both sexes elongate, and exceptional specimens can be flushed in a deep violet with blue and green sparkles. Upper eye is a fiery red. Males have larger and more pointed fins than females.
Diamond Tetras reach 2.5 inches, and they are stately, passive fish. For people who like their fish calming, Diamond Tetras fit the bill. Photos are insufficient to the gorgeous living fish.
They are egg scatterers like most tetras, but are rarely bred by hobbyists.

Hailing from Panama is the Platinum Tetra, Gephyrocharax atracaudatus.
Though simply a glistening silvery fish and fairly difficult to find in stores, a group of these fish is usually used as a complementary species to a smaller, more colorful and numerous species in the planted tank. Unusual, a school of these fish always brings questions and complements as they stand out so in a planted tank.
What makes Platinum Tetras special are a pair of bright silvery satiny spots at the base of the tail. The spots are bordered on the outside of the spots by a pair of black lines. The silvery spots reflect all sorts of blues and greens, and at times its difficult to nail down what color they actually are.
Platinum Tetras prefer a level in the lower middle, and like to stay in groups of a dozen or more. They reach three inches, but are harmless to fish too large to eat. A lively, graceful, lovely fish. Very striking in a well planted tank with their glistening bodies. I use them to complement a large school of heterorhabdus.
I haven't bred them, but I assume they are standard egg scatterers.

An immediate hit and saddled with a catchy name, Head and Tail Lights (Hemmigrammus ocellifer) is our next schooling fish.
A luminous, electric red-gold mark at the top of the base of the tail and a bright red upper eye caused an inventive keeper to give them that common name.
Reaching 1 3/4 inches, Head and Tail lights are a gregarious, happy looking little fish, as the fins are always smartly spread. They are hardy little guys and girls, thus excellent for the newer keeper. Males are slimmer, their dorsal fin is more pointed, and a little white spot (egg spot) is in the lower middle of the anal fin. Otherwise, the sexes are colored the same.
Native to Guiana and the Amazon, Head and Tail Lights are probably the easiest tetra to breed. A good-sized school spawns almost constantly. Fine leaved plants should be used in a spawning tank if you want to try your hand at spawning this fish.

A delicate, glass-like body and a blush of red in the fins typify the Glass Bloodfin of the Amazon basin.
Not as tender as they look, Glass Bloodfins (Prinobrama filigera) have a reflective quality like oil on wet glass, and thus bounce colors (mainly blues) back at the keeper. The first ray of the anal fin is bright white. The tail fin has a blush of deep red. Partially translucent, the spinal column running along the lateral line (the line that divides the top half of the fish from the bottom) is yellowish. The eye is a slivery yellow. They grow to 2 inches.
Glass Bloodfins like to be in large groups, and rather prefer hang in space together. They are surprisingly quick to food. For people who like their fish restful and beautiful, Glass Bloodfins are perfect. A lovely fish; I highly recommend them for a planted tank. They are quite hardy despite their appearance.
They spawn over plants, but don't spawn very often. In 35 years I've bred them exactly twice after many, many tries.

Named for Margaret Carnegie of the famous family, Carnegiella strigata, the Marbled Hatchetfish is a Tetra for the upper realms of your planted tank.
In realty a sort of flying fish, Marbled Hatchets have long pectoral fins and a narrow body like an ax head or keel of a boat. The color is golden and glistening. Brownish, parallel strips run diagonally from the sharp, ax-like belly to the top. The very top of the fish is olive. The mouth points upwards as they are surface feeders. They absolutely love live, wingless fruit flies. I dust the flies with a powdered substance containing asthaxin (NaturRose is a brand) as it intensifies their colors. They will also attack and consume a freshly-swatted, stunned housefly or any small, flying insect. They are very, very quick to the food. They grow to 1 3/4 inches.
Needless to say the tank must be covered with a glass or plastic top, as while breeding or just because they want to, they can sail right out of the tank.
They do best in the upper 70's, but for breeding, the temperature should be slowly be raised to the mid-80's (say, 83 to 85) over a few weeks in Spring. The pair spawn differently than the previous species. The male courts her by circling her rapidly. If she accepts him they jump out of the water together several times before getting side by side over fine-leaved plants. Several eggs are expelled and fertilized as they fall. Mine don't touch their eggs, but I remove the parents to be safe. It takes about a month for the fry to resemble their parents.

One of the very few tetras that prefer slightly harder water, the Bloodfin, Aphycharax anisitsi of Argentina, has been an aquarium favorite for many decades.
A silvery fish, Bloodfins have deep crimson markings on the tail, dorsal, ventral and anal fins. The pectoral fins are transparent.
Bloodfins reach 1 3/4 inches. They are adaptable, but to breed they need neutral, bright water that is moderately hard, say gH 10 ppm or so. A very, very peaceful fish in groups. You can keep them in your soft, slightly acid water as they resist disease better in it, but to breed them, you'll need to harden the water a bit.
If kept in a large group, the school often stays relatively tightly together. They will scatter, however, when food is added to the tank, and they pursue live Daphnia with gusto. After the food is consumed, they spend considerable time looking around to see if they missed any.

Looking like a stretched-out tetra, the aptly-named three-lined pencilfish, Nannostomus trifacitus, winds up our list.
Mature and in health, trifacitus is one of the most colorful of the smaller tetras. A golden body is marked by a deep black stripe down the middle of the fish, bisecting the eye, with thinner stripes at the top and bottom. The red on the dorsal, pectoral and anal fins is nothing short of striking; a deep, blood red. Mature males often have little red dots between the middle and upper stripes. Males are more narrow than females, which lack the red dots but their fins are just as red as the males. One must exercise patience with these fish, as they must mature to display full colors.
They do best in tanks planted with tall, tape-like plants like Vallisneria. They are a stunning picture in groups and are very passive (unless you're a Daphnia). They do not do well with busy, active fish save for Corydoras.
They like to spawn on/in Riccia, and it doesn't seem to matter if its floating or attached to driftwood or stones. The eggs are very sticky and in the breeding fever, they can be on any plant, and even on the tank glass. The parents don't touch them normally unless they are very hungry. They should be removed, regardless. The fry look like tiny glass splinters. If fed and housed properly, they become adults in about six months. Mine bred at 76 degrees.

There are literally hundreds of species of tetras; dozens of them are available in fish stores, and more can be found with a little searching. Thus, this list is necessarily short and is limited to what came to mind as I was writing it. I've kept many dozens of species over the years, and still do. They are peaceful, beautiful little fish.
I encourage you to do further research on the species I've listed, and hope that you, too, fall under the spell of Tetras.

Dave

References: Dr. Axlerod's Atlas of Freshwater Aquarium Fishes (Dr. Herbet R. Axelrod, et. al.), 10th Edition, TFH Publishing, 2004
Encyclopedia of Exotic Tropical Fishes for Freshwater Aquariums (Glen S. Axelrod, Brian M. Scott), First Edition, TFH Publishing, 2005
Exotic Aquarium Fishes (William T. Innes), 15th Edition, Innes Publishing Company, 1953

Fishalicious
01-20-2008, 12:46 AM
Fantastic Article on very much loved fish... I am one of those rare hobbyists that have bred with Moenkhausia pitteri - I have kept them for years & years and still everyday they can take my breath away with their beauty - no foto can do them justice.

I loved loved loved this article xxxxxxxxx Thank you very much x

KcEE
01-20-2008, 11:37 AM
Very well done dave! Very good artical! Thank you...

CAX474
01-20-2008, 12:06 PM
Well Dave!! fantastic top marks for the reserch and a bandage for your wrist, I bet its sore now.!! :c5:

Very well written and documented, informative to read. Full rep points for this one you have exceled yourself!! Well done!!:19:

hpt84
01-21-2008, 06:55 PM
48 Neon. Wouldn't that be a pretty site? You can never get bored with that. I think I'm going to upgrade my school of neon. excellent article. I feel sorry for your hand though.

Tooch
01-21-2008, 07:12 PM
Excellent article Dave!

doug z
01-25-2008, 11:03 PM
Thanks for this!

Tolley
01-25-2008, 11:10 PM
Amazing article Dave, this should be stickied.

snipers_den
01-25-2008, 11:20 PM
Wonderful article...very well done thumbs2:

NickFish
01-26-2008, 12:34 AM
Very nice and well done!
Thanks so much for this! I really appreciate it! Hope your wrists get better

smaug
01-26-2008, 12:40 AM
very well written,I too appreciated the diamond tetra write up.

NickFish
01-26-2008, 12:27 PM
You can feed hatchets house flys? Really?
That's cool. Any other fish you can do that with?
Thanks again for writing this.

Sinnbox
02-04-2008, 07:33 AM
are common houseflys harmfull to the fish?

jbeining75
02-04-2008, 07:39 AM
like I said Dave for member of the decade.......

Dave66
02-04-2008, 07:44 AM
You can feed hatchets house flys? Really?
That's cool. Any other fish you can do that with?
Thanks again for writing this.

Angelfish really dig freshly stunned houseflies. You'll see how hard angelfish can really hit things when a fly lands on the water. All the mid-sized Cichlids will happily take them.

Dave

Dave66
02-04-2008, 07:46 AM
are common houseflys harmfull to the fish?

Nope, Sinnbox. Remember, wild fish take houseflies or whatever bug lands on the water. Long as you haven't sprayed the flies first with Raid lol, the flies are fine for fish.

Dave

NickFish
02-04-2008, 08:53 PM
What about smaller insects like ants?

Dave66
02-05-2008, 09:29 PM
What about smaller insects like ants?

Probably, Nick, but many kinds of ants supposedly taste bad to make them unpalatable to predators, and I suppose some kinds could actually be toxic. I haven't tried them in tanks, because usually I have cultures of bugs I use to feed the fish. I've always chucked freshly swatted and still wriggling house flies into tanks for ages. Fish love them.

Dave

NickFish
02-05-2008, 11:40 PM
Ok no ants, but house flies good. I'll try that with my hatchets!

Is there any type of fly that absolutely should not be fed to fish?

Thanks again!

fraggle
02-11-2008, 02:43 AM
Just bumping this up, who do we ask to get it stickied?

Anja
03-19-2008, 05:15 PM
Thankyouthankyouthankyou.

Wonderful article. :19:

Cindy RM
04-12-2008, 06:13 PM
Very interesting article... I was always learning!!

doug z
04-12-2008, 06:14 PM
Yup, a great article!

Welcome to the forum, Cindi!

NanoTankGuy
06-08-2008, 04:00 AM
Awesome article. What would you suggest to put in tetra tank in terms of plants? Thx.

Dave66
06-08-2008, 04:59 AM
Stem plants and swords, for the most part. Cryptocoryne for the foreground, smaller swords like Echinodorus parviflorus, which tops out at ten inches. Rotala wallachi would be good for stem plants, but has needs high lighting and iron supplication in the water and a fine, iron-rich substrate. The sword, too, needs an iron-rich substrate. Driftwood as well is good to have with tetras. Are you going to use Co2?

Dave

NanoTankGuy
06-08-2008, 06:34 PM
I will, once I get a bigger tank - it's a 6G for now, so I don't even know if it's worth investing in CO2 for it...

angelcakes
06-08-2008, 06:41 PM
thanks for a great article dave..........:19:

billcollins531
08-04-2008, 01:06 PM
Incredible article!!
Are there 2 types of Glo(w)light fish? I thought it was only the genetically enhanced Zebra Danios, but are there Glow tetra's too?

Best regards,
billcollins531

Dave66
08-05-2008, 02:16 AM
Bill,
There's a Rasbora, R. pauciperforata, that has the electric red line like H. erthrozonus does, but the Rasbora is about a half-inch longer, more slender, and harder to find than the tetra, so those may be the two species you're thinking of, though the Rasbora is from the old world and the tetra from the new.
Thanks for the comments about my primer :)

Dave

Sounguru
08-05-2008, 02:36 AM
I see how you are Dave...bringing old threads back...

You try to act like you are just replying to someones post when I know it is all a CIA plot to get me to buy more fish.... Well I tell ya it isn't gonna work. I Already have 2 Tetras...:14:

Love the article again...

Dave66
08-05-2008, 02:41 AM
I see how you are Dave...bringing old threads back...

You try to act like you are just replying to someones post when I know it is all a CIA plot to get me to buy more fish.... Well I tell ya it isn't gonna work. I Already have 2 Tetras...:14:

Love the article again...

My next plot, guru, will get you to trade in all those itty bitty tanks for something with some SIZE on them. A 220 gallon is a nice size . . . .
Then your two tetras could be two hundred tetras :)

Dave

schoolbus
10-13-2008, 03:57 AM
Dav,
when you speake of drift wood is there a type of drift wood that you're speaking of.
I'm new to the hobby. I'm wanting to set up a 38g for tetras.
I want to get as close as I can to thier natural invi. as I can.
Anything you can pass on plants wood etc. would be great.
Oh great read thanks.

Dave66
10-13-2008, 05:55 AM
Dav,
when you speake of drift wood is there a type of drift wood that you're speaking of.
I'm new to the hobby. I'm wanting to set up a 38g for tetras.
I want to get as close as I can to thier natural invi. as I can.
Anything you can pass on plants wood etc. would be great.
Oh great read thanks.

schoolbus,
Thanks for the kind words. As far as driftwood goes, I get mine from an obliging, pristine lake near me, and from a web site in Florida (floridadriftwood.com), but Dwight is currently out of stock.
I get most of my aquatic plants from him, and have for eons.
For wood I get from the lake, I rinse it under scalding water and scrub the nooks and crannies with an old toothbrush. Some folks boil the wood, but most of my pieces are too large, odd-shaped, or long to put in a pot.
Also, better fish stores have a selection of good pieces. Don't get any screwed on to a piece of slate, as the screw eventually rusts which is bad for a tank.
What I look for is interesting shapes that suit the vision I have for a tank.
There are some types of wood that automatically sink, but most wood you'll have to sink it yourself. I use stones on the ends to hold them down, siliconing them on if necessary. In a few months the wood will be waterlogged, and you can remove the rocks if you want to. I usually leave them there, as plant grow soon disguises them.
Three most important parts of a planted tank for tetras are the lights, the substrate, and the water. The vast majority of tetras come from very soft, acidic black waters (waters stained a deep tea color by vegetative decay). Thus, you'll want your tank water to be under pH 7.0 (6.5 is best, but 6.8 is acceptable), and soft, with a hardness level of five or less. Given those water parameters, things like neon and cardinal tetras can live for more than 10 years.
The substrate should be nutrient-rich to feed the plant roots, and the light must be full spectrum and intense for proper photosynthesis.
I've just scratched the surface of a planted tank. I'd suggest you pick up the Encyclopedia of Aquarium Plants by Peter Hiscock. I believe amazon.com carries it, and better books stores have it. It'll clear things up for you, and enable you to know not only how to do a planted tank, but over 150 species of aquatic plants are listed with their care. The book will help you make educated decisions.
If you've more questions, ask me in PM.

Dave

Neon
08-24-2009, 02:03 PM
:19: standing ovationthumbs2: , really great , as I have 15 neon tetra which I love , I'm thinking to print this one !!

little hawaii
12-26-2009, 04:43 PM
[QUOTE=NickFish]Ok no ants, but house flies good. I'll try that with my hatchets!

Is there any type of fly that absolutely should not be fed to fish?

Thanks again![/QUOTE

Flys are great,don't forget worms and grasshoppers all my fish love them too especially my pair of Oscars. I also keep Venus flytraps in 2 of my terrariums and like to feed them once in awhile. To my amazement I have 1 in bloom right now, just no camera. To catch my flys I put a old glass milk bottle out in my garden with a small wet piece of meat in it. I leave it out for a day and bring it in covered in maggets. Now you can either feed them dirrectly or let them pupate into adults. I once caught 5 yellow jackets. My male Oscar loves them but the female will not touch them. The only nasty part of live food is choping worms up for my small fish but once you see how much they enjoy it,it's no longer a chore. Happy Holidays.:14: :ssuprised:

WoadCelt
02-04-2010, 04:06 AM
I love tetra!!!! Thank you for such an enjoyable article. It was a very interesting and reassuring read! :ssmile:

fish00053
05-04-2010, 05:47 AM
I have a 125 fw with about 140 fish in it presently. Mostly Tetras. I enjoyed this article. Good presentation.:19:

Nemitzx
04-04-2012, 06:10 PM
Thanks for the wonderful article.

steeler58
08-28-2012, 06:28 PM
Very good article, Since I was nine yrs old I have been enamered with Tetras. I know the majority of the people prefer livebearers and bigger fish like cichlids.

I prefer their mostly small sizes and for the most part good dispositions, and the variety, I can't believe how many new spieces are still being discovered.

I see that you mentined the Flag Tetra as one of your favorites, believe it or not I have never seen this beutiful fish in a dealers tank in the 43 yrs I've been involved in the hobby, and I have lived in at least one good sized city (Sacramento, Ca). Where did you find your's? Did you notice how much the Redline or Amapa tetra resembles it?

My favorites of all the ones I have kept over the years are the Cardinal, Rummynose, Lemon, Rosy, recently the Green Neon and the Stegman that I was only able to find once.