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View Full Version : Basic equipment for a 10 gallon SW setup



coachfraley
01-09-2008, 09:48 PM
After reading post after post about setting up a small SW tank, I decided to compile a little bit of the information that has been posted recently. Hopefully, you have read a little about keeping nanos, and you realize that they need constant maintenance, and a lot of TLC. I also hope that you do not have unreal expectations as far as what you can keep in the tank. For small SW tanks, the 1" rule (or even the .5" rule) does not apply! But, with a little forethought, you can stock a 10g with more than enough life to make a very interesting display.

Please note, that this article is for people who are absolutely set on a 10g. I am in no way saying that this an ideal size, but I realize that many people will want to start here.

So, lets get down to the nuts and bolts:

Must Have Equipment
Tank
SW Test Kit
Live Rock: 10-15 lbs. of rock. There are a wide variety of choices, but it will ultimately depend upon how much you want to spend and/or what is available to you. Prices and quality of LR can vary immensely. In Southern California, you can find beautiful, fully cured live rock at fish stores for around $5 a pound. In some rural areas, people are paying $20 a pound for just about anything they can get their hands on. If you want to save some $, one way to go is to mix up the quality of the rock you buy. For instance, you can buy 6 pounds of "base rock" (which is usually white and devoid of life), and hide it under 9 pounds of premium live rock. Some generalizations about live rock: "uncured" rock is usually cheaper, takes longer to cycle, and contains more hitchhikers. The opposite is true of "cured" live rock. Making concrete statements about which live rock to buy is very difficult, because terms such as "fully cured" mean different things to different retailers. Ideally, you will be able to go around and look at rock at several fish stores. You will quickly see that there can be a big difference in the quality of rock available. Read up on the curing process and talk to retailers about how their LR is handled on the way to the store. If you take your time and get a great deal on nice rock, you will not regret it.
Live Sand/ Aragonite: 10-20 lbs. of dry aragonite sand or bagged aragonite "live" sand. Popular buys here are Natures Ocean Bio-Active Live Aragonite and the Caribsea Aragamax line of products.
Powerhead(s): You will want around 120-250 gph of flow for your 10g. Popular choices are the Koralia Nano, the Aquaclear powerheads, and the Maxi-jet powerheads.
Lighting: Here is where you will need to have some idea of what you are going to keep in your aquarium. If you want a Fish Only With LR tank, you can get away with standard aquarium florescent lighting. If you are going to keep corals, you will need to buy lights that fit the kind of corals you are going to keep. Keep in mind that almost everyone who starts out with a FOWLR ends up keeping corals. That is why I recommend that you invest in a lighting system that will at least work for low-light corals. That way, if you are in your LFS, and you see some really cool mushrooms or zoas, you will be able to get them. Here are a few of the popular lights:
Low Light: Current Nova Extreme HO T5 40 watts , Current USA PC Single Satellite 40 watts
Med/High Light: Coralife PC quad-tube aqualite 96 watt, Current USA PC Dual Satellite 80 watts
50 watt Heater: Steath, Visa-therm, and the Jager are popular.
Hydrometer: Coralife and Instant Ocean are the most common. No hydrometer is going to be very accurate. Check yours against a refractometer if possible.
SW & FW Supplies: You will need a constant supply of filtered FW for top-offs and for mixing your SW. Most people use RO water from their LFS or a home RO system. You will need a bucket, extra heater (25-50 watt), and powerhead to prep your SW for water changes. If you mix your own SW, you will also need to buy a salt mix. Seachem, Tropic Marine, Instant Ocean, and Kent Marine are some of the most commonly used brands. Buying pre-mixed water from your LFS is another option, and it is usually economically feasible on a 10g tank. In case you are interested, here is a cool article on Salt Mixes:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/12/aafeature1/view

Optional Equipment
Hang On Back Filter: Although it is not required, an HOB filter will allow you to run mechanical and chemical filtration on your tank. Keep in mind that the "stock" media in most filters was designed for FW. So ditch the bioballs, and use the HOB to hold your carbon or purigen, and maybe some disposable filter floss. The most popular HOB filter is the Hagen Aquaclear.
Hang on Back Refugium: A fuge is a great way to fine tune your water quality on a small tank. Basically all it is, is a home for macroalgae (such as chaetomorphia). In order for the macroalgae to grow, you will need to purchase an extra light (ideally in the 6700k spectrum), and run the light on a separate timer. So setting up a fuge can add quite a bit of cost to your setup. The aquafuge is a prefabricated refugium that can be purchased with a light. Other people choose to make a DIY fuge out of an HOB filter and a small PC palm light.


By making this post, I am not claiming to be any kind of expert. Most of the info. here is compiled from this site, other forums, and articles around the internet. If you have other questions, there are some very experienced reefers on this forum who can help you out. Good luck, and happy reefing!

Fenix
01-09-2008, 10:04 PM
Wicked Post. This should be a sticky!

Tigerbarb
01-10-2008, 03:04 AM
Helpful guide! All it did for me though was make me want a SW tank even more.

jttt3
01-11-2008, 09:41 PM
Awesome, the basic list is the Exact list I have for my 10g micro!

coachfraley
01-12-2008, 03:36 AM
Thanks, I hope it helps someone.

kylevl
02-27-2008, 01:42 AM
Thanks for the info it was exactly what i was looking for, but i have a couple questions
-is there a popular website that has good services and prices for all this equipment?
-I have done a lot of reading on SW tanks and have been thinking about setting up a 10g, my only concern is that i will be graduating college in june and would have to move the tank, would this destroy any progress i have gained and should wait, or will it be ok?

coachfraley
02-27-2008, 04:10 AM
Here are a few websites I use:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/Shop.cfm?N=2004
http://www.marinedepot.com/
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

A site for deals (deals change regularly):
http://www.reefdealz.com/

Regarding your second question, I think it would depend on the length of the move. If it is only an hour or so, I don't think that would be a problem. If is is a lot more, that might be trouble. I have not had experience with long moves, so hopefully someone else can give you a better answer.

kylevl
02-27-2008, 04:48 AM
The move would be no longer than 1.5 hours

cocoa_pleco
02-27-2008, 04:49 AM
shouldnt be a issue

Tigerbarb
02-27-2008, 04:58 AM
William, if you read this, please make it a sticky. It will definitly help get marine newbies (including me) on the right track.

cocoa_pleco
02-27-2008, 05:00 AM
William, if you read this, please make it a sticky. It will definitly help get marine newbies (including me) on the right track.

i dont think william will read this but any mod can sticky

kylevl
02-27-2008, 08:22 AM
i agree with tigerbarb this post has help me out a lot as a SW newbie and should be a sticky

PetRanch6892
02-28-2008, 04:15 AM
i want to do a 10 gallon nano reef, is this a good light?
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CU01002.html
or is there a cheaper light that will work just as well? i want to keep an anenome(its late i cant spell), and some polyops.

coachfraley
02-28-2008, 04:29 AM
That light is fine for low light corals. Anemones would probably want the version of that light with 2 bulbs (and twice the wattage). An anemone would probably also appreciate at least 10 more gallons of water in your tank, lol. Anemones need super stable water conditions in order to be happy...I think a lot of people would advise against putting one in a 10g.

cocoa_pleco
02-28-2008, 04:42 AM
yep, anemones need at least a 55g, 10wpg lighting, and a tank over 6 months old

zackish
02-28-2008, 04:26 PM
I think the live sand and Live aragonite is all a waste of your money. Just get regular carib sea sand and stuff and it will come alive within your tank after a few weeks.
If we think logically here, real live sand has real live bacteria that survive on waste products and other chemicals in your water.
So how can "live sand" and bacteria be bagged up and sit on a store shelf at room temperature for weeks at a time? I would think they would die off since there is nothing supplying the bacteria with the necessary nutrients they need to survive.

zackish
02-28-2008, 04:29 PM
That light is fine for low light corals. Anemones would probably want the version of that light with 2 bulbs (and twice the wattage). An anemone would probably also appreciate at least 10 more gallons of water in your tank, lol. Anemones need super stable water conditions in order to be happy...I think a lot of people would advise against putting one in a 10g.
I would highly deter anyone from getting a anemone in a 10 gallon. I had one in a 10 gallon for about 2 weeks and it just went downhill after the 2nd day.
This was in an aquarium that was 6 months old with a bunch of coralline. I have perfect magnesium, calcium, alk, and PH levels. I also have 130 watts of light over the tank too and plenty of flow and the thing was just not liking life. I also think I have learned a lot in SW aquariums which would make me not a beginner and I still had trouble with the anemone. I will just say there is plenty of other cool things you could put in your 10. If you had enough light and enough flow I think that a clam would be cool.

coachfraley
02-28-2008, 05:13 PM
I think the live sand and Live aragonite is all a waste of your money. Just get regular carib sea sand and stuff and it will come alive within your tank after a few weeks.
If we think logically here, real live sand has real live bacteria that survive on waste products and other chemicals in your water.
So how can "live sand" and bacteria be bagged up and sit on a store shelf at room temperature for weeks at a time? I would think they would die off since there is nothing supplying the bacteria with the necessary nutrients they need to survive.

I am also a little skeptical about the bagged live sand. I don't quite understand how those companies can claim that the beneficial bacteria is still viable after sitting in a bag that long (I always felt the same way about eco-complete for planted tanks). I can attest to the fact that the bagged live sand does not create a noticeable ammonia spike in tanks, but I do not know how much beneficial bacteria is present in the tank after the sand is added. I also know for sure that the baged live sand is a POPULAR product, and it is used by a lot of reefers (many of whom swear by it) so I felt inclined to include it in my post.

I don't know how common this is, but there are a couple of LFSs' in my area that keep live sand in a curing tank (just like live rock), and they just scoop it out when you want some. That was what I was referring to when I mentioned "live sand from your LFS".

You are definitely right that I should have explained that section of my post better, would you like to suggest a correction??? Maybe with a few edits, we can get this thing stickied (if that is a word) lol.

Thanks Zack:thumb:

PetRanch6892
02-29-2008, 03:07 AM
the carib sea sand is only 7 dollars less at my store so i just bought the "live sand" i think it looks better. I never understood how it stayed alive either, it has been in bags for months.

coachfraley
02-29-2008, 04:35 AM
Well, I made an edit to the original post.

cocoa_pleco
02-29-2008, 04:49 AM
isnt it just called live sand because after a while in the tank it holds massive amounts of good bacteria? aragonite does the same thing, i just use aragonite

PetRanch6892
02-29-2008, 10:10 PM
can i use the same setup for a 20 gallon. i really want an anenome, what is the smallest tank size i can use. i have a 29 that is cycling but i would rather get that for an eel.

cocoa_pleco
02-29-2008, 10:51 PM
55g with 10wpg lighting is the minimum for a anemone, plus the tank needs to be at least 6 months old

PetRanch6892
02-29-2008, 11:28 PM
ok thanks guess im not getting one soon.

travie
04-03-2008, 05:12 PM
If I was a mod, I would have this thread stickied, which it needs to be.

Getting this thread back to the top of the list.:27:

Halelorf
04-03-2008, 05:59 PM
I agree, this should be stickied.

Epy
04-04-2008, 03:23 PM
Hydrometer: Coralife and Instant Ocean are the most common. No hydrometer is going to be very accurate. Check yours against a refractometer if possible.


Excellent thread.

I would like to link this article I came across while doing research on Nano Reefs:

Toxicity of Some Freshly Mixed Artificial Seawater by Ronald L Shimek, PhD (http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-03/rs/feature/index.php)

So, the average number of larvae that developed in samples of water made with Instant Ocean and Coralife salts was highly statistically different, and far lower, than the number found developing in natural sea water. On the other hand, the average number found in samples of water made with Crystal Sea Marinemix Bioassay Formula and Bio-Sea Marinemix salts was not significantly different from that found developing in natural sea water.


While I see a lot of people recommend an RO unit around forums and I have seen Instant Ocean and Coralife being most popular in LFS's as well this article would seem to scientifically demonstrate (at least based on one method) that Bio Sea Marine Mix would be the best of the instants (although I haven't even seen that brand in any of the LFS (big ticket or small local) around here yet.

gem
04-04-2008, 04:44 PM
One thing that should be added to the list of equiptment even for a 10 gal nano reef would be the recomendation of a skimmer. There are many HOB and even small in tank skimmers available on the market that would fit. A protein skimmer is a very important addition for the health of any Reef tank and is also a good idea for FO and FOWLR systems.
Very good post Coach!!!!

coachfraley
04-04-2008, 06:05 PM
Thanks!

Protein skimmers would be a good add to the optional equipment list. The popular consensus is that you do not need a skimmer on a tank under 30g, but adding one sure wouldn't hurt.

You are right Gem, that there are quite a few to choose from: the CPR Bak Paks and the Aqua C HOB's seem to get great feedback.

gem
04-04-2008, 06:39 PM
Yes, both of those are great and a good investment especially if you decide to one day upgrade to a larger tank. I use a bakpak 2 on my 46 gal reef (60 gal total water volume w/sump and fuge) but IMO that's as big a tank it should go on.
There are less expensive options out there for smaller tanks. Mind you they aren't "the best" but do a pretty good job and are well suited for a 10 gal nano. For instance:

This HOB serves as mechanical filtration and skimmer and usually runs about $35 at most LFS.
http://www.marineandreef.com/shoppro/protein_skimmers_rio.html

There is also this small in tank fission skimmer for about $30
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4392+14676&pcatid=14676

And Skilter has an HOB as well
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4392+3641&pcatid=3641

I have not personally used any of the above skimmers and can't vouch for their quality or effectiveness. But...they are an option and less expensive. IMO having one of the above is better than not having one at all. While not absolutley neccesary, no, they are IMO worth their weight in gold in reference to water quality in a nano reef.

coachfraley
04-04-2008, 06:59 PM
If I am not mistaken, Fenix uses the rio on his 10g.

Wild Turkey
04-04-2008, 07:13 PM
I am also a little skeptical about the bagged live sand. I don't quite understand how those companies can claim that the beneficial bacteria is still viable after sitting in a bag that long (I always felt the same way about eco-complete for planted tanks). I can attest to the fact that the bagged live sand does not create a noticeable ammonia spike in tanks, but I do not know how much beneficial bacteria is present in the tank after the sand is added. I also know for sure that the baged live sand is a POPULAR product, and it is used by a lot of reefers (many of whom swear by it) so I felt inclined to include it in my post.

I don't know how common this is, but there are a couple of LFSs' in my area that keep live sand in a curing tank (just like live rock), and they just scoop it out when you want some. That was what I was referring to when I mentioned "live sand from your LFS".

You are definitely right that I should have explained that section of my post better, would you like to suggest a correction??? Maybe with a few edits, we can get this thing stickied (if that is a word) lol.

Thanks Zack:thumb:


This rocks and it a great way to get live plants. I take a little bag with me and take some of the water from the tank to see what the conditions are like, (test it when i get home) Cuz im pretty new to live decor and it helps alot to see the plants are doing well in a tank before i get home, id think the same goes for live rock

cocoa_pleco
04-04-2008, 08:05 PM
ive had 3 RIO's, and i dont know why but all die on me, i get it running awesome, skimming and water pumping through, and in the morning theres no water in the skimmer and its running dry, with a burnt out motor

gem
04-04-2008, 09:09 PM
Sounds like you're losing syphon somehow. I've never used one....nor any of the others I mentioned personally. I have spoken to people that have used both the rio nano and the skilter. I have only really heard complaints about the skilter (though I can't comment on what the complaint on it was, as it was a long time ago). I hadn't heard any complaints on the rio except that it could be more efficient.

cocoa_pleco
04-04-2008, 09:20 PM
ive never had a rio run for me more than 3 days (how long my first one lasted), but one of the reef stores here had a 10g show tank with a RIO and it barely pumps water and doesnt skim anything anymore, i personally just think that this is a sign that HOB's and skimmers shouldnt mix