View Full Version : Betta arrangement for health

11-20-2015, 06:09 PM
I've a question for more experienced betta keepers than myself.

I have two male bettas kept separately, but I also have a sorority tank (6 girls and some other fairly peaceful fish). Some of my girls appear to be almost painfully swollen despite me actually underfeeding my tank. My research has led me to think this is them being swollen with eggs.


Would it be safe/smart/healthy for the fish if I were to
A) place one of my male bettas in the tank for a while
B) individually remove females to the males tanks
C) individually remove one male and individual females to the QT
to encourage the females to release their eggs?

I don't intend to breed them, and in fact I would be removing the eggs if I placed them in the males tank or the QT (in the sorority tank they would likely be eaten by the tetra's, plecos, and the female bettas themselves). I'm simply worried about how swollen my ladies have gotten... Especially one who's also developed a rather nasty looking patchy redness over the swelling which is, I think, flesh showing between her white scales.

The females do not have dropsy. Their water conditions are perfect aside from a high PH (too high for any test kit I have to read, and this is just a fact of my location where the tapwater is tested at almost 10 consistently by the system), with 0 ammonia, no readable nitrates, minimal nitrites (fluctuates a bit with water changes, but my tank is also heavily planted with live plants and driftwood), and the water is generally hard when it comes out of the tap and softens after a while with the fish and their plants.

11-20-2015, 06:30 PM
How often and what do you feed?...they could just be bloated, feeding green peas may help.

In a cycled tank, you should have 0 trItes, and some trAtes...maybe just a typo?

11-20-2015, 10:10 PM
I feed every other day with betta flakes and every sunday with dried bloodworms. (I have to use flakes or some of my girls don't get to eat. The less dominant ones stay near the bottom a lot of the time and the feeding frenzy from the tetras and other bettas sends flakes down, but it won't send pellets down. Same for bloodworms.)

Yes that was a typo from me looking at the strip bottle (it's gotten splashed a few times, I only use strips when acclimating, and I keep them cuz they're useful for storing small knickknacks and/or disposing of the occasional dead fish as will happen in even the best of tanks).

I have tried feeding peas to the white one who has the red on her, back when she first bloated up, I isolated her in a breeding cup and fed her peas and small (SMALL) amounts of dried daphina which I've heard also helps. It didn't seem to help at all and I kept her isolated for almost a month before some of the swelling went down (she still looked very overfed, her belly was the size of my pinkie toe and then a full pea and now it's back to toe size) but she swelled right back up after a few days.

The ones that are the most swollen are also the most dominant, my two 'top dog' females both look painfully swollen, the others that stay near the top are moderately swollen, only my 'bottom feeder' girls aren't swollen, but they eat just as much as the others... And if it was overfeeding I believe it would affect my tetras too as they're eating just as much as (actually more of the food goes to them cuz they frenzy like a pack of mini-piranah) the bettas and are all fed the same thing.

11-20-2015, 10:22 PM
The dried BW and daphnia can certainly cause bloating if they are not soaked in tank water before feeding.

If they eat the dried food, it can potentially expand in their stomachs as it moistens; soak these foods for a few hours before feeding.

Also, the paper test strips can be much less accurate than the liquid test kit; I encourage you to invest in one of these: http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI

11-20-2015, 10:36 PM
I'll try the soaking on sunday. I want to feed frozen food, but my family is not interested in having fish food in the freezer.

I use a liquid kit (API Masterkit) for weekly tests. I just didn't want to go all the way to where I put it to read the labels. Like I said, I only use the strips for acclimation as they give me a rough idea of when the water parameters are close together (close enough that the fish won't keel over dead from shock).