View Full Version : Souly's 29 Reef Tank

08-28-2013, 02:36 AM
I deiced I would start a Journal for the progress on this tank and hopefully keep it updated!

Planned tank
29g tank: 30 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 18 3/4
Substrate: Arag-Alive Hawaiian Black
30-32pounds of LR
HOB Refugium
And a HOB Protein Skimmer

The Refugium is a DIY based off of a Penguin 150 biowheel: Progress on that can be found here (http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aquariumforum/showthread.php?t=113981)

Still looking for a skimmer in a decent price range.

Lighting: For lighting so far I'm looking at
Marineland Reef Capable LED Aquarium Lighting System 24-36" (http://www.marineland.com/Products/aquarium-lighting/LED-Aquarium-Lighting/reef-led-aquarium-lighting-system.aspx)

Current planned Stock:
Corals -
Eagle Eye (Zoanthus sp.
Australian Big Polyp Blastomussa
Birdsnest Coral, Green
Green Fluorescent Mushroom

2 Ocellaris Clownfish

Possible chocies:
Orchid Dottyback - Tank-Bred
Horned Blenny
Black Cap Basslet
Purple Dottyback
Springeri Dottyback - Tank-Bred
Clown Goby, Green
White Banded Possum Wrasse
Green Mandarin

I will post pictures as they come about, and try to have this edited with FTS once the tank is setup.

08-28-2013, 03:02 AM
As this reef tank journal, I have moved your thread to the correct section of the forum

08-28-2013, 05:19 PM
Thanks cliff, Sorry about that!

I just managed to snag one of these HOB skimmers for 30 bucks!

http://www.marinedepot.com/Red_Sea_Prizm_Hang_on_Protein_Skimmer_Hang_On_Vent uri_Protein_Skimmers-Red_Sea-RS1131-FIPSHOVS-vi.html

09-09-2013, 03:44 AM
Some updates to the thread: I picked up 30pounds of live rock for the tank, it being so small I didn't want to overdo it, and it seems like I made a good choice because with 30 pounds and the pieces It came out looking nice.

I used instant ocean salt mix, at 1/2 a cup per gallon as per the instructions on the bag.


Also, the lighting I'm using is Coralife Lunar Aqualight HO T5 Aquarium Light Fixture, and i will be doing an actinic blub and a super blue bulb. For the second set a the 10K bulbs with another super blue blub, and depending on the coral responds, when I start adding getting/adding it might go to a 12k instead of the 10.

09-10-2013, 07:30 PM
Checked my water levels today:
KH- 161.1
NO3- 40ppm
PO 5pmm

Not surprised my nitrates are so high...day 3 using live sand. My wife decided to put it in the tank when I was work and didn't rinse it out.

09-10-2013, 08:09 PM
Picture of tank at day 3 of the cycle. Noticed I've got some growth on the live rocks with having the lights on for a few hours, will be leaving them on for the full 10 hour photo period today.

09-10-2013, 10:44 PM
8 hours should be good.

What's your pH and salinity at? Are you using regular Instant Ocean or the Reef version? Are you using straight from tap water or RO/DI?

09-10-2013, 11:13 PM
Be careful with your light. On too long will give you some algae issues down the road. When I was doing my live rock reef tank cycle I was informed (by some very experianced individuals who I wont name, Cliff) to keep the temperature up around 80 degrees and keep the lights off unless I wanted to watch the tank. Your wife adding the live sand without rinsing it made me chuckle, I did that too and what a mess it made. But it did clear up.
Nice looking tank. Hows the water flow/agitation?

09-10-2013, 11:23 PM
Using RO water with Instant ocean reef.

My Salintiy according to the Coralife Deep Six Hydrometer I have (yes I know, I should get refractometer, working on picking one up in a two weeks) my salinity ranges from 1.024 to 1.30, which is confusing because I'll test this a few good times and thats what I keep getting in ranges. I did my last test and let it sit for about 5 mins and it reads: 1.25

As for PH, I don't current have a test for that. I'll also be having to get one of those as well.

09-10-2013, 11:25 PM
The tank didn't have any issues with clouding, since I poor the water over the live rock to keep that down, it cleared up with my ref and skimmer running pretty quickly. Cliff has been helping with me the light cycle info, we talked via PM about it. I"ll turn up the heat, and turn off the lights for now in that case lol. I was hoping to try and get some color going on those rocks haha

09-11-2013, 12:38 AM
With nitrates at 40ppm, I would suggest a water change or two over the next few days to bring them down a lot. This should not effect your cycle a lot, but it will help you avoid a lot (and I mean a lot) of problems down the road. You have to keep in mind, your rocks are like nitrate sponges. When the nitrates are extremely high, your rocks will soak them up like a sponge. Once the nitrate level drops in your tank, the rocks will start to release some of the nitrates back in your water and bring them back up again.

I would also suggest you keep the lights off for now before you develop nuisance algaes in there

09-11-2013, 01:02 AM
How much of a change would you suggest I do for that?

09-11-2013, 01:06 AM
Try some daily 20% water changes over the next 4 or 5 days and see what happens

09-11-2013, 07:26 PM
Did a water change today and still getting 40ppm D:

09-11-2013, 07:57 PM
How big of a WC change?

Bump it up to 50%...

09-11-2013, 08:10 PM
Was going to do try the 20% water changes that Cliff suggested, so far after my first change I'm still getting 40ppm on the test. Should I keep doing the 20 for the new few days or go to 50?

09-11-2013, 08:35 PM
Try one more 20% water today. If (after the two water changes) you do not see any changes in nitrates at all, then I would guess you are still getting nitrates leaching out of your rocks already, or, it is coming from substrate if you used live sand. I just caught the part that you used live sand which can also add nitrates to a set-up just as live rock can. Nothing wrong with increasing the water change amount to 50% over the next few days. Seeing as how you used live sand, you might also want to do a bit of a gravel vac as well. This is a part of the reason why I personally do not like using "live" sand.

09-11-2013, 08:36 PM
I'd go with the 50% since you don't have anything in there it won't be life or death with a slight parameter change (ie pH or salinity) plus it'll prevent more nitrates from leeching in

Generally speaking I'm cautious to do more than 25% when i was stocked just because I was always worried about param changes (personal phobia lol most people are fine doing more)

09-11-2013, 10:53 PM
Well, the biggest problem for me to do larger changes is that I have to run to the store every day to grab more RO water, I can get about 7 gallons at a time (untill I get more containers)

Would it be possible to use something like Seachem De-nitrate to reduce the level?

If worse comes to worse I'll make the trip everyday to get the water since its only a few blocks down the street from for me.

09-11-2013, 11:33 PM
Seeing as how the manufactures' instructions state you must bring down your nitrate level to 20ppm before even using that product, your likely better off to stick to the water changes. Not to mention the fact it provides almost the same function a good quality live rock dose, I would not recommend it.

09-11-2013, 11:51 PM
D'oh, you're right I didn't notice that at first. (thats why I post on here first..) Guess I'll have to make a few more treks to the store.

09-12-2013, 08:12 PM
Did a 30%water change today (that was all the water I had. I will be getting more today and doing another water change if needed to do a 50)

and my nitrates are at 20ppm. Should I do another large water change today, or do a 50% tomorrow?

09-13-2013, 02:20 AM
Also, in regards to my Feather Duster, I'm not sure what to do with it. I was planning on seeding my tank with some ReefPods after my cycle was done so that I could hopefully in 6 months have a Green Mandrian, but the duster eats pods, and right now I don't think I have any in the tank. Should I be spot feeding the duster? Or will it be fine in the tank right now?


09-13-2013, 03:57 AM
Dusters will be fine in your tank. Do the 30-50% tomorrow and see where that brings you.

09-13-2013, 04:13 AM
Okay good!

Tomorrow I'll do a 50% change.

09-13-2013, 09:31 PM
After the 50 change im between 5 and 10

09-13-2013, 10:15 PM
Getting there. It's amazing that feather dusters are the first ones to appear in a cycling tank. I stared at mine waiting for the next life form to emerge during the wait.

09-14-2013, 09:39 PM
Should I keep doing water changes or is that okay for the cycle

09-14-2013, 09:51 PM
What are your nitrate levels at right now ?

09-14-2013, 10:04 PM
The last test i did yesterday showed 5 to 10. I didnt have time do one that before work

09-14-2013, 10:04 PM
Ill have the wife do a test for me when she gets off work lol

09-14-2013, 10:17 PM
You have to keep in mind that the nitrate level in most of coral reefs is around 1ppm (most often a little less). I like to keep my nitrates at 1ppm in my reef tank, and most often it is lower than that. But I'm a little bit of a hard-nose when it comes to water parameters

Below is a quote from another thread here about water changes and cycling a marine aquarium with live rock

Although this is true with a fresh water fishless cycle, it is quite the opposite for a salt water cycle
When cycling a tank with uncured live rock, the live rock will be covered with a biological film containing all the different types of beneficial Bactria. By the time the rock gets from the ocean to your tank, there will also be a lot of organisms that have died or are dyeing causing ammonia and proteins (among other stuff) to be released. The ammonia eating bacteria will feed on this and reproduce quickly. The bacteria that eats the proteins and turns it into ammonia will reproduce a lot faster than the ammonia eating ones, so the ammonia produced will/can actually grow to toxic enough levels that will prolong the cycle. This is why you have to do water changes if the ammonia reaches levels of 1 to 2 ppm or higher. The water change will help reduce the ammonia and other decaying particles from the tank helping the cycle complete faster and the water parameters become balanced quicker. Although there is some beneficial bacteria free floating in the water, it will be in such small amounts that water changes will not remove enough of them to be impactful in any way. Larger water changes will help the cycle move along faster, not slow it down one bit.
Whether or not you find yourself in this situation will greatly depend on the amount of live rock in relation to the total amount of water in the setup. If you have 1 lb of uncured live rock per gallon of water when your cycling your tank, chances are you will run into this problem and will need to complete some water changes while cycling.
When I was cycling my 90 tank (~120 gallons with the sump) I used ~35 lbs of uncured live rock and about 85 lbs of dry rock. The ammonia never went above 1 ppm. The tank took about 3 weeks to cycle. When I cured 45 lbs of live rock in my 20 gallon quarantine tank (for a different tank), I had to change 50% of the water about 6 or 7 times as the ammonia climbed several times to right around 2 ppm. In this case, the rock took about 3 to 4 weeks to cure.

09-14-2013, 10:46 PM
So I should keep doing changes till i get to around 1 or less? And also how can I tell then if LR is cured? I got mine from the lfs and it was soaking in a tank for a while

09-14-2013, 10:54 PM
No different than when you have a cycled FW aquarium. Stable parameters, (0 ammonia and nitrates) and low nitrates. The below links can help



09-15-2013, 05:25 AM
Ammonia is showing up at 0 however my nitrates have gone back up to about 20

09-15-2013, 05:28 AM
0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 20 nitrate?

09-15-2013, 05:45 AM
Ammonia is 0 and nitrates are at 10. I don't know about nitrite as I don't have a text for that one. I need to pick up one for that and ph. I thought we had grabbed it at the store and I'm broke after a car issue :(

09-16-2013, 02:46 PM
oohhhh sorry to hear about the car issues... they're always rough

good news is that it sounds like you're coming up on the end of your cycle lol

09-16-2013, 05:37 PM
Yeah hopefully. Ill be doing another 50 change today to try and knock down the nitrates. Then check all my levels. Gonna hold off adding anything till I get all of my other two tests.

09-17-2013, 05:36 PM
Nitrate's are down and reading as zero. I will be getting a PH test, and Nitrite test today and have do a full water perm test.

However I seem to have this white algae on my rocks:
I'm not sure if that's coming from the little bit of natural sunlight my tank gets at certain parts of the day, or what that stuff is. I've also noticed that on the side of one of those rocks it looks like a spiny some jagged formation is appearing on the side of the rock that according to my Wife wasn't there when we got the rock.

On a side note, my Dusters seems to be doing well. I've noticed their filler things have gotten longer.

09-17-2013, 05:56 PM
Is all of the white stuff hard and flaky ?

If it is, and any of that rock was exposed to the air when changing water, then I would guess it is dead coralline algae. That stuff typically turns white when exposed to the air repeatedly. Not big deal really as the coraline will come back once your tank stabilizes

09-17-2013, 08:03 PM
See what keeping saltwater tanks do to you.

You pay attention to every little thing.
You get excited looked at tiny little things in the tank.
You're happy looking at rocks in the tank and all the things that magically show up on it.

09-17-2013, 08:16 PM
So according to my tests:

Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 5.0
ammonia: thinking .5
and ph is a little above 8.

09-17-2013, 08:47 PM
I figured I would post the pictures of my test for a second opinion. 3018730188301893019030191

09-18-2013, 05:53 AM
Looks about right, keep it up, your tank is cycling fine.

09-18-2013, 05:11 PM
So when my tank is cycled should I start with corals first or with fish?

My lfs has some clowns that have been paired up since birth so I was thinking of getting those once the tank was cycled.

I've also noticed that my lfs Doesn't seem to have most of their corals listed. Most of ones at the stores that are listed are the really expensive ones.

09-19-2013, 10:48 PM
Just another update:

Did a test today and it looks like my

Ammonia is 0 ppm
nitrites are 0 ppm
and my nitrates are between 5 and 10 mm.

09-20-2013, 10:42 AM
After your parameters are stable for a week or two, I would suggest starting out with one or two hardy fish. Depending on the type of clown fish you are talking about, you might want to start with those. Once you start seeing algae growing, start adding your CUC.

I would suggest adding the corals last, just to make things easier. The more mature your tank is when adding corals, the easier it will be to keep them happy

09-20-2013, 04:59 PM
When would you suggest I add the cope pods to the tank? After I get nitrates knocked down completely? Also looking at cuc would a fire shrimp be okay for that while having a green mandarin?

09-20-2013, 06:02 PM
Add your pods once the tank stabilizes

I would not suggest a mandarin for such a small tank. I know many people claim to have long term success keeping mandarins in small tanks through continually dosing with pods, but it would be hard to provide him/her with a lot of hiding spots which they really do need (along with other fish and some inverts like your planned shrimp). Just my preference tho.

I'm not to sure I would include a fire shrimp as a part of your CUC as it will only clean up uneaten food in the tank and typically not any types of algae. There are many snails better suited as CUC for your set-up

09-20-2013, 06:56 PM
I would only add the shrimp if I couldn't go with a green man. I've put in a lot of hiding spots in my LR with the way I built it up for the possibility of getting one. That's why I wanted to dose with pods now and then 6 months get the GM...but that's not for sometime and I'll do more research to make sure I can properly care for one.

Which snails would suggest for the algea? Hopefully they won't breed to much lol
Thanks for all your help

09-20-2013, 08:35 PM
My Mexican Turbo snails mow down algae with gusto. They have been in the tank for some 9 months and haven't bred. I just went and bought three more. The original 2 are getting really large and can't reach some places anymore so thats why I bought the three new ones.

09-20-2013, 09:15 PM
Sorry I forgot to mention, when I was first looking at snails to add to my tank the Cerith snail was said to be a great addition as it do more for your tank then eat algae. It will also sift through the live sand not as well as the nassarius(sp). Once your tank has matured I would suggest adding a few nassarius(sp) so that sand bed gets some action.

09-25-2013, 11:32 PM
So questions for the group: Do you do weekly water changes? I've read on a few forums from people that never do water changes, just top offs to keep the tank level good, and that as long as the tank is cycled right it wouldn't need a change because the LR helps filter etc.

Whats your guys say on this?

09-26-2013, 02:15 AM
The main reason for the water change is to remove unwanted TDS and replenish the water with nutrients. It is easier to keep track of dosing that way. Also, the chemicals released by the inhabitants should be removed. Not changing the water can have long term ill effects. I doubt those people have kept their tank running for longer than 5 years without some sort of issues.

09-26-2013, 09:40 AM
+1 to the above

You still need to complete water changes to lower the long term build-up of things like TDS and nutrients which you do not want as well as replacing trace elements that get used up by corals and coraline algae. Even a weekly waterchange of 5% will help, but 10% is better. Keeping your parameters stable through waterchanges will also help to maintain and stabilize your tank for many years to come. Just goggle "old tank syndrome" and you will see what I mean

I complete 10 to 15% weekly water changes. Sometimes even a little higher

09-26-2013, 11:58 AM
another +1 to above

I was one of those people for a while who didn't do regular water changes.. everything was ok for the first year i would say, but then i kept having algae problems and other small problems that were frustrating... I would definitely say at least 10%

09-26-2013, 04:41 PM
I always planned to do about 10 percent changes. Just some of what I read was conflicting.

In other news my tank levels are coming up stable still after a week. I'm thinking of picking up my clowns on the next pay check haha ^-^

09-26-2013, 04:43 PM
Soars as mentioned dosing which was going to be one of my questions for when I got corals. How do you know when you need to dose?

09-26-2013, 05:40 PM
Api has a Calcium test which I use for my tank. Some test for magnesium.
Unless your planning on having a few hard corals your weekly 10% water changes will replace those trace elements for the most part. I dont have sps corals only soft corals and I haven't dosed anything since I started my tank. My calcium level is always in the proper range.
What were you planning to do the dosing for Sourly?

09-26-2013, 06:09 PM
Yeah I have the reef master test kit that came with Cal test. I'm currently planning to have:
Eagle Eye (Zoanthus sp.
Australian Big Polyp Blastomussa
Birdsnest Coral, Green
Green Fluorescent Mushroom

However those may change because of the really great prices on corals that one of the LFS has.

09-26-2013, 08:15 PM
On a sidenote: I added some de-nitrate to the tanks Skimmer (in the media area) and to my HOB refud till I get some good chaeto in their.

09-26-2013, 11:31 PM
So I had told the wife that tank levels were steady, and she comes home surprising me with two clowns. We saw them earlier this week. Young ins that are obvious a pair. They wont leave each others side at all. She went to the LFS bought them because they were such a good deal at 9.99 each. So...I just drip acclimated them and them to the tank. They seem to be doing well so far and are exploring the tank.

A little early than I would have liked to get them, but all is well. I'll be keeping a close eye on them and my tank levels.

09-27-2013, 12:04 AM
As long as you monitor the water parameters as you have been doing and keep up with water changes during the week those two Clowns should be fine.
I hope your wife brought some food for those fish with her. :)

09-27-2013, 01:02 AM
Haha, yes she did get some food. Grabed a few packets of Frozend Brine and mysis shrimp. I'm feeding them less than half a cube since they're the only two in the tank right now. Now I just need to figure out what else to put in there later on.

Here are some picture of the clowns:30411304123041330414

09-27-2013, 09:43 PM
Nice looking Clowns. Don't be to anxious to stock that tank. Take your time, add slowly, and read up on what your thinking of getting. I go to the lfs around me to see what they have than I come home and google those things. When I'm convinced I have a better than average chance of keeping that species alive I will go back and check once more for any sickness. If all is good I bring it home and drip acclimate it into a quarantine tank for around 10 days. I would hate to introduce a sickness into this saltwater tank. I think most med's would kill off my live rock and I'd be back to square one.
Nice pictures Souly, are those Clowns eating well?

09-27-2013, 10:05 PM
So far the smaller one doesn't seem to eat much. The bigger one gobbles quite a bit

09-30-2013, 12:08 AM
The clowns eat like very well right now, and are well....


The smaller one, who I'm assuming is going to be the male, is so insanely co-dependent and hardly leave the other one. They spend most of their time in the left side of the tank, and sleep along the corner. I'm hoping once they get more accustomed to the tank the larger one will go out and explore more like the smaller one has. Which is funny, because he was the one that hid when first put him in the tank till the other larger one found him and coaxed him out. They seem to be doing very well and I'm keeping an eye for my levels.

10-01-2013, 04:36 PM
So today as if litterary overnight I have hair algae growining on two of the rocks D: seems like I might need to get a CUC now.

On that note...Now I need to see if any of LFS have anything good for a crew.

10-01-2013, 09:42 PM
It does come fast when the conditions in the tank are right. It is green right? If it gets longer than 1/2inch you'll likely have to take it off by hand. I found that out when it happened to me. My snails and hermits didn't bother with the long stuff. Maybe in the short term until you get your CUC, reduce the amount of light the tank is getting. Also if your phosphate reading is above 0.25ppm get a water change scheduled. The last thing you want is hair algae taking hold. It's tough to clean off the live rock.

10-01-2013, 09:57 PM
Actually picked up 3 turbos today for the tank I'll be doing my water change today as well.

10-02-2013, 03:54 PM
word of caution with the turbos, if they flip over they can't get back up, and if they die they'll release all kinds of nasties into the tank

10-02-2013, 10:44 PM
Noted on the Turbos. They seems to be going a good job cleaning up the algae. One of them chose to sleep in the corner were my Clowns like to sleep and they refused to sleep anywhere else till it moved.

Got the copepods and add them to the tank. I wasn't ware those suckers could jump...It was amusing watching them enter the tank then go crazy to get a hiding spot.

10-03-2013, 11:42 PM
word of caution with the turbos, if they flip over they can't get back up, and if they die they'll release all kinds of nasties into the tank
I too recently read that Hockeyhead, has this ever happened to you or anyone you know? I have had my Turbos for almost 8 months and they have both survived but I have never seen them upside down. They mow that algae like crazy so that why I bought three more just recently. My original two are about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Yes they knock down some coral occasionally but thats my fault for not using the epoxy I bought 6 months ago.

10-07-2013, 11:08 PM
I discovered some aiptasia in my tank and was going to get some remover but I guess we got two peppermint shrimp instead. So now the tank is up to:

Two clowns, three turbos is and two peppermint shrimp. Since I'm planning to do corals should I still add anything else to my stock? I seeded the tank with pods hopping to have a mandarin in a few months...

10-09-2013, 11:46 PM
If the peppermint shrimp don't get rid of that aiptasia, I've used Aiptasia-X to eliminate them. Get the syringe with the formula near that anemone and inject. They vanish in three days.

10-27-2013, 04:04 PM
So I figured I would do an update on my tank:
Stock of fish is now:
2 clowns
1 Royal Gramma
1 Purple Firefish
1 XL Green Mandarin
2 Shrimp

1 Frogspawn
1 Brain Coral, Trachyphyllia
1 Pink Zoanthus

I know Its tough to keep mandarins, mine eats frozen food as well as copepods. I've seen him eat with the rest of the tank, which is good, and he's not becoming skinny. I keep a close eye on him and will add more pods to the tank if he ends up devastating my cope pods. If he starts to get skinny I'll bring him to my LFS.

The clowns refuse to investigate my frogspawn, and are staying paired with the corner of my tank. The firefish has decided that it will in fact pair up with the clowns and hangs out with them all day. They rarely go to the other sides of the tank. The Royal will swim all over the tank, but I had to pick like one of the shyest ones because he pretty much hides at night, or if anyone walks up to the tank.

I've had to place my Brain coral in one of my openings of rock in the tank because it was getting to much light and was bleaching out, I really hope I can eventually bring it back out into the view of the tank though. I'll be adding some pictures later.

10-27-2013, 09:51 PM
I'm not here to contribute much SW knowledge but just to say that the photography is great in this journal. More please! Those clowns are sweet! :19:

10-30-2013, 03:48 AM
Welp it appears my frog spawn contract brown jelly somehow. None of my other corals seem to be affected but I'm keeping a close eye on them. Had to bin the whole piece after I discovered what it had.

Picked up another coral as a replacement, and also some marine snow and some purple up.

10-31-2013, 01:38 AM
Any reason for the calcium dosing ?

What are your calcium and alkalinity levels right now ?

10-31-2013, 01:58 AM
I'll do a check on my levels but, purple up from what I know of it says that it will increase coraline algae and help prevent brown algae which I'm getting quite a bit of.

10-31-2013, 02:04 AM
Purple up is also a type of calcium supplement. That is why I asked about your current calcium levels and dosing.

If you use it without testing your calcium, you can make your parameters even more unstable leading to even more algae.

10-31-2013, 02:35 AM
I'll test the calc when I get home and make sure I'm nit over 400

12-21-2013, 09:45 PM
I figured I would post an update on this thread:
I have in my total stock now: A Purple Firefish, A Royal Gramma, my two clowns, and a Green Manderian. (I've had for a few months now and he's all fat due to stocking the tank every few months with pods.)

Currently coral wise I have two small frogspawns, a torch, 1 acan, a Green candy cane, and twothat I'm not sure of the names.


02-18-2014, 08:48 PM
So, its been a while since I last posted, I figured I'd do a quick update on what I have in my tank now.

First off, I've switched my lighting from the 4bulb t5 fixture I had and went a Radion Gen 3 LED setup.
I've removed the prizm skimmer, and went to an AquaC remora.
Stock is as follows:
2 Peppermint shrimp
2 Oc. Clowns
1 Pygmy Angel
1 Firefish
1 Royal Gramma
1 Turbo (will be getting two more, my others kicked the bucket in a bad nitrate spike I had)
20 Nassarius snails
1 fighting conch

Current Corals:
1 Tubbs blue
2 Torch corals, 1 head each
1 Frogspawn
1 Toadstool
1 purple acan
1 Pink Zoa
1 La Lakers zoa, 1 polp though
1 (some red zoa with blue edges)
1 two headed green candy cane

I've also added a 10g sump/refudge to the stand.
Heres a current FTS, 32567

HEre are my tubbs as well :D

11-02-2014, 05:30 PM
Heres an update on this tank:

Tank and Equipment
29g tank: 30 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 18 3/4
Substrate: Arag-Alive Hawaiian Black
30-32pounds of LR
AquaC Remora Skimmer
1 Hydor Powerheard 240gph and 425 gph head (planning to upgrade these to newer Jaebos or vortechs)
Lighting: Radion gen 3
Sump: Custom 10g with chaeto

Current Stock:
Corals -
Eagle Eye (Zoanthus sp.
2 blastos
Birdsnest Coral brown with some green
1 kenya tree
1 large tubbs blue colony,
some La lakers, and some other red zoas,
1 Acan
1 frogspawn
1 duncan
2 Ocellaris Clownfish
1. Chrub Angelfish
2 blue chromis
1 Midas Blenny
1 Damsel
1 peppermint shrimp, I haven't seen the other in weeks.
a few hermits, and turbos and some nar. snails.

Here is a video:


11-02-2014, 06:00 PM
Great video and good looking tank!

08-25-2015, 07:25 PM
Update on everything:
29g tank: 30 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 18 3/4
Substrate: Arag-Alive Hawaiian Black
30-32pounds of LR
Lights: Radion gen 3
Skimmer: SCA-301 65 Gallon
Sump: 10g sump with Chaeto, Xena and Kenya corals.
Flow: Gyre

Oc. Clowns x2
1 Midas Blenny
2 Chromis
1 damsel
1 Cherub Pygmy Angel
1 peppermint shrimp
1 Harlequin shrimp
Hermets, and snails.

Corals...to many now.


08-25-2015, 07:36 PM
Nice update, tank and fish look spectacular.

08-25-2015, 07:40 PM
Bumped the color saturation on the video to get more an accuratre color of everything since my blues overpower everything haha

08-25-2015, 08:19 PM
What a cool and colorful tank! The way it's scaped, it looks way bigger than a 29!!